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Thimble fell off traditions Trapper pistol. How can I fix it?

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I am very familiar with regular epoxy, on wood, antler, metals, fiberglass, and even a plastic composite stock tank that cracked and started leaking. However, I have never used JB Weld on any occasion. A lot of people seem to like it. Is JB Weld a type of epoxy? Is it better than standard epoxies in some way? I've seen some really sloppy glue jobs that had been done with it, with gray spatters and drips, but those were likely the fault of the user rather than the adhesive.

Just curious.

Thanks,

Notchy Bob
 
Bob, it’s a two part paste that when mixed is a sort of puddy like. Once set it can be filed and sanded. Not a product I would use on a fire arm but I’ve seen a few bubba jobs done with it.
 
Did it break off from the thimble lug ? Or was it soldered to an underrib.

If soldered to an underrib, then it simply needs to be cleaned up and then re soldered on.

If it broke from the thimble pin lug, you’ll need to remove the lug by unpinning it and then finding either a replacement thimble or someone who can brazen the lug back to the thimble (braze not soldering) or find someone with a MIG welder that can put a blob of new brass on the thimble and then reshape it.

Or I suppose you could JB weld it, but that’s not really the right way to fix it.
 
According to the diagram I have the thimble is held onto the barrel rib by a screw. If the thimble fell off I would think that must mean the screw hole in the brass thimble has stripped out. If you can't get a new thimble you might be able to move the thimble forward or back a little then drill and tap a new screw hole.


trapper.jpg
 
I am very familiar with regular epoxy, on wood, antler, metals, fiberglass, and even a plastic composite stock tank that cracked and started leaking. However, I have never used JB Weld on any occasion. A lot of people seem to like it. Is JB Weld a type of epoxy? Is it better than standard epoxies in some way? I've seen some really sloppy glue jobs that had been done with it, with gray spatters and drips, but those were likely the fault of the user rather than the adhesive.

Just curious.

Thanks,

Notchy Bob
Done properly it is as strong as regular lead solder. I've repaired ramrod thimbles with it when the solder FAILED & have had no repeat failures. Only the unknowledgeable would call it a "Bubba" product. There are actually other modern adhesives out there that are stronger than any solder. They are easier to use & don't discolor the bluing like using the high heat silver solders do. Many here reject anything "modern" & let their prejudice, not their experience, govern their opinions. Just my two cents!
 
Done properly it is as strong as regular lead solder. I've repaired ramrod thimbles with it when the solder FAILED & have had no repeat failures. Only the unknowledgeable would call it a "Bubba" product. There are actually other modern adhesives out there that are stronger than any solder. They are easier to use & don't discolor the bluing like using the high heat silver solders do. Many here reject anything "modern" & let their prejudice, not their experience, govern their opinions. Just my two cents!
Thanks for your comments, @Old Hawkeye . I didn’t mean to sound disrespectful. It’s just that I have no personal experience with using JB Weld, but it appears to be a very popular product that is mentioned pretty frequently on this forum.

Your post is enlightening.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob
 
Done properly it is as strong as regular lead solder. I've repaired ramrod thimbles with it when the solder FAILED & have had no repeat failures. Only the unknowledgeable would call it a "Bubba" product. There are actually other modern adhesives out there that are stronger than any solder. They are easier to use & don't discolor the bluing like using the high heat silver solders do. Many here reject anything "modern" & let their prejudice, not their experience, govern their opinions. Just my two cents!
JB weld is the strongest best adhesive I ever saw
 
I need to stop reading this JB welding advice, its painful to read, its just not right.

If the screw hole is stripped just have it retapped and get a bigger screw.
though i tend to agree with SPQR70AD about the quality of JB weld, (I used it to patch the engine block in a Chevy LUV once) I whole heartedly agree with FlinterNick. gluing a firearm together is just not in my wheelhouse, or outhouse for that matter.
 
If your considering gluing your thimble why not go with 500 mile duck tape if your going to Micky Mouse the job do it right. You could rotate it drill and thread a new hole if the screw isn't stripped it's not that hard or have a local shop drill and thread it for a few bucks. Have you called Traditions or looked at sites like Numrich gun parts,Ebay ,Deer Creek or Track of the wolf .Remember your working on a firearm not really something to treat like a toy and you want to be satisfied when your done just my opinion no disrespect meant
 
The screw holding the thimble in place is trapped between the rib and barrel. Never say never but on most of these type problems it is seldom an arcane, one in a million event. The screw probably just worked loose. Take off the rib and see if you can screw the thimble back in place. Let us know if that doesn't work. Put some shellac or locktite in the threads so it doesn't happen again.
 
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