• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Ticonderoga knife blank.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Dec 21, 2020
Messages
3,512
Reaction score
5,795
Location
Missouri
I got a twofer from @BillinOregon about a week ago that included a haversack and a knife blank.
I was really more interested in the sack, but I told him I'd work the knife into something usable and show some photos. Here are a few shots of the beginning of the build. Before anyone jumps my bones I know most Ticonderoga knives either had steel hardware or none at all. I'm using what I have on hand which is brass.
The handle is a very nice piece of maple that I cut to an octagon and tapered. the pommel is just a lightweight piece of brass tacked in place to protect the wood at the end. I'll be using three brass pins to hold it in place when I get to that point.
IMGP1147.JPG
IMGP1148.JPG
IMGP1149.JPG
IMGP1150.JPG
IMGP1151.JPG
IMGP1152.JPG



IMGP1147.JPG
IMGP1148.JPG
IMGP1149.JPG
 
Last edited:
Mighty nice work. Your finishing the handle before installing seems to me to be a very gutsy approach. But, each to his own.
The handle is only partially finished, it's only got two coats of oil on it if it gets scuffed when I put the pins in, and a little touch-up stain should do the job. I'm a very patient person and will be very careful when installing the handle.
 
I ran into my Ticonderoga knife blade like yours the other day and said to myself I really have to do something with it. I purchased mine about 20 years ago and stuffed it into a draw in the garage back then with the intent to make it into a complete knife. After seen yours I am getting the "itch" to finish mine. I see you are going to use 3 pins to secure the handle to the tang. Have you drilled the tang holes yet and if you did how hard was the tang to drill? :dunno::ThankYou:
I like your handle and the shape of it :cool: :thumb::ghostly:
 
I ran into my Ticonderoga knife blade like yours the other day and said to myself I really have to do something with it. I purchased mine about 20 years ago and stuffed it into a draw in the garage back then with the intent to make it into a complete knife. After seen yours I am getting the "itch" to finish mine. I see you are going to use 3 pins to secure the handle to the tang. Have you drilled the tang holes yet and if you did how hard was the tang to drill? :dunno::ThankYou:
I like your handle and the shape of it :cool: :thumb::ghostly:
I haven't done much with the knife other than start to thin and shape the cross guard. My intentions on the handle are to drill the slot for the tang and place the handle on with good epoxy. Then I'll drill through the epoxy and tang all at the same time using the holes in the handle as a pilot. Fortunately, I have a very good drill press with very little runout and a machinist vice to hold it in place when drilling.
 
Check that tang for hardness. If they harden the whole blade you will not be drilling holes in it unless you use a carbide drill bit (or three) no matter how good your drill press is :rolleyes:
 
Back
Top