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Messing with my squirrel load again
- Thread starter Greg B.
- Start date
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What I've been doing is using the short sub on the ball to start the patched ball. Then use a sharp knife to cut the patch at the muzzle. After that, I tap the long side (stem) of the starter and put the load down 3 inches or so. When I pull up, the starter sticks anywhere from a little to so hard it requires pliers to wiggle it out. When I continue with the ramrod the ball goes down the rest of the way with medium taps. The ramrod jag does not catch the patch.
After the major time the patch and starter stuck, I looked down the barrel and there was enough patch above the ball that I used a sharp stick and folded the patch over the ball almost covering the top. The patch is either stretching or ripping below the ball. There were others shooting so I didn't hunt for shot patches which was a mistake on my part. The tip of the short starter is not much wider than the stem.
I can only conclude that the bore is tighter than normal. I'm not using over size balls and the patch is pretty thin compared to what a lot of you use.
After the major time the patch and starter stuck, I looked down the barrel and there was enough patch above the ball that I used a sharp stick and folded the patch over the ball almost covering the top. The patch is either stretching or ripping below the ball. There were others shooting so I didn't hunt for shot patches which was a mistake on my part. The tip of the short starter is not much wider than the stem.
I can only conclude that the bore is tighter than normal. I'm not using over size balls and the patch is pretty thin compared to what a lot of you use.
johnfrommd
Pilgrim
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Do you have any pitting in your bore? If you do, that is the problem.
The gun is factory new, so the barrel shouldn't be pitted but I don't have a bore light small enough to drop into the 32.
I just bought another short starter, the end of the stem is a tiny bit smaller than what I was using. I'll use the new starter the next time to the range.
The gun shoots high at 25 yards (which is okay with me) but way high at 50 yards (not so good). It would seem to me, that if the patch was burned or ripped the ball would be losing steam at the longer range.
I just bought another short starter, the end of the stem is a tiny bit smaller than what I was using. I'll use the new starter the next time to the range.
The gun shoots high at 25 yards (which is okay with me) but way high at 50 yards (not so good). It would seem to me, that if the patch was burned or ripped the ball would be losing steam at the longer range.
johnfrommd
Pilgrim
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If a patch gets burned or torn, you will have a pattern and not a group. If they are reasonably close together, the patch is doing its job.
I'm probably a bit early to be making judgements about my gun. Many posters have claimed one hole groups at 25 yards and in some cases further than that. Most posters say they are using 20 grains 3 F and .015 patches. The lubes they use vary. I copied what I've been reading. My results aren't that good. My patch is thinner than most but it takes a good tap with a hammer to start down the bore. The patch getting the starter caught is just a time waster, I can work around this. Shooting high can be corrected with changing or filing the sights (changing front, filing the rear).
I guess, if the gun loaded and shot good right out of the box, life would be kind of boring.
I guess, if the gun loaded and shot good right out of the box, life would be kind of boring.
johnfrommd
Pilgrim
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20 gns for a .32 is good for short range like 25 yards. If you are shooting at 50, I would start with .30 grains.
BP shooting is always an experiment until you learn what the gun likes to eat.
BP shooting is always an experiment until you learn what the gun likes to eat.
Here’s a “two shot group” I recently shot at 25 yards. Had to quit due to rain. Most of my groups at 25 start about like this but open up a bit as I put 5 shots down range. I don’t measure them but they’d be somewhere near .75 - 1 inch. These are from a good rest. (My fence). I’m still working on a few things but I’ve not been able to do the one hole thing ever. For squirrel hunting, which is what I’m after, these little guns should be plenty capable out to 35 ish at least.
The short starter for my .32 has a flat spot sanded into the ball. I use this flat spot to seat the ball and ticking flush with the muzzle to cut the patch. then use the small nub first and then the longer starter shaft to get the ball started down enough to use the ramrod. When I was using precut patches for .30-.39 cal, the patch would bind around the starter shaft.
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DL, there are two solutions to your problem. (1) Become proficient with a slingshot and marbles. (2) Get a blowgun and some broadhead darts.
I found the blowgun easier to master than a slingshot, and it's deadly at the ranges you're dealing with.
johnfrommd
Pilgrim
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This is what I use. I mix Ballistol or any kind of synthetic machine cutting oil ( this is from NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WLD7651526?impressionRank=2) in an 8 to 1 ratio. It has been the best lube I have used for years.
johnfrommd
Pilgrim
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Dale, A Gamo break barrel .22 , like one of the Gamo Whisper series is the answer to your problems. I have one and it is neighborhood quiet and kills squirrels up to 25 yards away with no problems. The are usually under $100 and many times you can find them on sale in the $70 range.f .... Polecat
hanshi
Cannon
I've killed a passel of squirrels, and a few rabbits, with a couple of pellet rifles I've owned for years - one for well over half a century. Definitely perfect for the job if neighbors are close by. And also did a little bit of damage with a blowgun I once had.
But the Crockett was by far the most fun. My standard load was 30 grains of 3F. That load was accurate, did no more damage than a .22LR and the Crockett loved it. 20 grns was/is just as good.
For trouble free loading I made my own short starter with a piece of aluminum rod smaller dia. than even the ramrod. As I recall I used pillow ticking for patches (around .015") and Hoppes #9 BP Lube. Snug but not really tight. On a real good day I occasionally fired sub 1" 5-shot groups at distances of 40 yards Plus. Most of the time it was more like a quarter size group at 30 yards.
But the Crockett was by far the most fun. My standard load was 30 grains of 3F. That load was accurate, did no more damage than a .22LR and the Crockett loved it. 20 grns was/is just as good.
For trouble free loading I made my own short starter with a piece of aluminum rod smaller dia. than even the ramrod. As I recall I used pillow ticking for patches (around .015") and Hoppes #9 BP Lube. Snug but not really tight. On a real good day I occasionally fired sub 1" 5-shot groups at distances of 40 yards Plus. Most of the time it was more like a quarter size group at 30 yards.
X2 on the pellet rifle. Mine is just .177 caliber, but squirrels are no match for it. I tried to scare raccoons off the porch with it, but it ended up scaring them to death
Don't underestimate the power of a pellet rifle!I use the same lube and ticking in my Pedersoli Frontier .32. It seems to like 25 grains of FFFg the best. Easily groups inside a quarter at 25 yards. It's most accurate with Hornady swaged round balls; I think they are .310. My home cast balls open up groups a bit, but I think they are still minute of squirrel. I don't think I've shot many squirrels over 25 yards away even with a scoped .22, so I'm quite happy with how it shoots.
hanshi
Cannon
Squirrel hunting is a close range sport and handguns do as well as a rifle. I prefer the rifle, either a .32 or a .36. By and large a squirrels finest target is that walnut size head. I found my .32 Crockett with 30 grns of 3F if placed in the squirrels middle section does not mess the little critter up at all. But one must stay away from the shoulders and hindquarters. I generally like the head/neck area for the simple reason that a hit there gives an additional 1" to aim at instead of just a 2" fuzzy ball. I even once took a Georgia fox squirrel with a .58 prb that left almost invisible entry and exit slits on the neck.
