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Wedge pin insertion- Right to Left or Left-Right ?

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Can you expalin a bit more about how you "pin" the wedges?
Many keys have a slot cut or cast into them. Some keys do not have a slot. My last build has two keys in the half stock. Slotted keys were installed. In the barrel channel, a hole was drilled, centered on the slot in the keys. I placed a short pin into the hole. This keeps the key connected to the fore end once the keys are moved out far enough to remove the barrel from the stock.
 
Hi,
American makers did not seem to have any convention for orienting barrel keys. However, as Rudyard wrote, all British guns with keys have the heads on the side plate side of the gun. Here are examples:
ThX3zde.jpg

uoEiNpK.jpg

bL83hkK.jpg

ToEhJu3.jpg


Snake Pleskin, it is not hard to pin the keys in place. I believe the GPR has escutcheon plates surrounding the keys that are screwed into the stock. Simply drill a series of 1/16" holes in a line down the center of the flat key. Cut between the holes with a jeweler's saw and file the slot even. Make sure it is long enough and close enough to the end of the key to clear the barrel lug. Remove the escutcheon plates on right or left side of the stock, doesn't matter. Cut short 1/16" pins from finishing nails or brads that will fit vertically inside the plates and go through the slots in the keys. Cut a little groove in the wood to fit the pin behind the plate and then put the key in the plate, position the pin in the slot behind the plate and place the whole assembly in the mortise for the plate. Screw it in place. Make sure the slot is filed wide enough so it slides easily on the pin. On guns without removable escutcheon plates, cut and file the slot in the key, place the key all the way in the stock, mark for a hole in the barrel channel such that it will allow the key to be slid out far enough to clear the barrel lug. Then, using a tiny drill (#58 or #59) drill into the barrel channel down into the slot of the key. Drill only as far as the bit reaches the key and goes through the slot but no further. Cut a short pin from the pointed end of a tiny (1/16" or less) brad. Place the pin in the hole in the barrel channel and tap the pin in until the point digs into the stock below the key. Don't be too aggressive. Just tap enough to sink the point and keep the pin in place. Grind or file off any excess pin sticking up in the barrel channel. Once pinned, the key can never be removed so make sure it fits the stock and barrel well and , slides smoothly. You can test how well it works with the pin in place but before setting the pin. On thicker stocks with big wide keys, you can replace the pin with a tiny screw that can be removed.

dave
Thank you , very helpful, i appreciate it!
 
I believe the GPR has escutcheon plates surrounding the keys that are screwed into the stock. Simply drill a series of 1/16" holes in a line down the center of the flat key. Cut between the holes with a jeweler's saw and file the slot even. Make sure it is long enough and close enough to the end of the key to clear the barrel lug. Remove the escutcheon plates on right or left side of the stock, doesn't matter. Cut short 1/16" pins from finishing nails or brads that will fit vertically inside the plates and go through the slots in the keys. Cut a little groove in the wood to fit the pin behind the plate and then put the key in the plate, position the pin in the slot behind the plate and place the whole assembly in the mortise for the plate. Screw it in place. Make sure the slot is filed wide enough so it slides easily on the pin.
Here is the execution of what @dave_person is referring to. The ‘capture’ pin is placed under or behind the slotted inlay, and goes through the slot in the wedge key. The pin is just visible in the slot.
1653921866847.jpeg
 
I have a Belgian 10ga Damascus double. It’s wedge is pined entering from the left side. The function of the wedge is to hold the barrel(s) firmly, many times a slight bend will accomplish the task, when that happens I will mark the upper side so it will always return to the exact same position. For what it’s worth being left handed all of my wedges enter from the left side
 
The Pedersoli Lyman Great Plains Rifle kit I just finished came with captured wedges inserted from the left side. The small screws capturing the wedges were already installed. I like the idea of the captured wedges for several reasons. Interestingly enough, the instruction manual that came with the kit told you to be sure to insert the wedges from the RIGHT side.
 
Not only do Lyman wedges go right to left but one is shorter than the other.

“The rear wedge is slightly longer than the front wedge and is installed closest to the lock. Both wedges are installed from the right to the left. This is true for right or left-hand rifles.” I think Lyman is the only company that has specific instructions.

I usually put them back the way they came out. Most I’ve seen have the “heads” on the right side of a right-handed rifle or pistol. Although, I’ve had to reverse them sometimes on used guns if they fit better that way.

CVAs can be tricky. The earlier Hawken had narrower barrels with the escutcheons recessed IN the wood. The later models are wider and had them sitting ON the wood. Needless to say, if you put the newer (longer) wedge in an older model, it’s going to stick out the other side. And yes, it’s going to poke you in the hand.

Walt
 
Not only do Lyman wedges go right to left but one is shorter than the other.

“The rear wedge is slightly longer than the front wedge and is installed closest to the lock. Both wedges are installed from the right to the left. This is true for right or left-hand rifles.” I think Lyman is the only company that has specific instructions.

I usually put them back the way they came out. Most I’ve seen have the “heads” on the right side of a right-handed rifle or pistol. Although, I’ve had to reverse them sometimes on used guns if they fit better that way.

CVAs can be tricky. The earlier Hawken had narrower barrels with the escutcheons recessed IN the wood. The later models are wider and had them sitting ON the wood. Needless to say, if you put the newer (longer) wedge in an older model, it’s going to stick out the other side. And yes, it’s going to poke you in the hand.

Walt
That is absolutely true for the Investarms made Lyman Great Plains Rifle but the newer version made by Pedersoli has the same length wedges. My old Great Plains rifle had the different length wedges and were always inserted from right to left unlike the newer Pedersoli manufactured version.
 
That is absolutely true for the Investarms made Lyman Great Plains Rifle but the newer version made by Pedersoli has the same length wedges. My old Great Plains rifle had the different length wedges and were always inserted from right to left unlike the newer Pedersoli manufactured version.

I was referring to the Investarms models.

Walt
 
Agree with Maurice and Dave on the English guns having the keys enter from left. There is a Richard Wilson fowling piece in the Royal Armories that has the keys in from the left as well although it is a left handed gun.
 
Agree with Maurice and Dave on the English guns having the keys enter from left. There is a Richard Wilson fowling piece in the Royal Armories that has the keys in from the left as well although it is a left handed gun.

Don't the English drive on the opposite side of the road than we do? Maybe it's just something as simple as that. 😁

Walt
 
Don't the English drive on the opposite side of the road than we do? Maybe it's just something as simple as that. 😁

Walt

Not only the English but the Scots, the Welsh and the Irish, and Australians and New Zealanders, most countries of Sub-Saharan Africa and most of the Caribbean. Add Malaysia and Hong Kong to that, too.

In fact, everywhere that the British once were.

Except the USA and Canada. that is.
 
Hi,
American makers did not seem to have any convention for orienting barrel keys. However, as Rudyard wrote, all British guns with keys have the heads on the side plate side of the gun. Here are examples:
ThX3zde.jpg

uoEiNpK.jpg

bL83hkK.jpg

ToEhJu3.jpg


Snake Pleskin, it is not hard to pin the keys in place. I believe the GPR has escutcheon plates surrounding the keys that are screwed into the stock. Simply drill a series of 1/16" holes in a line down the center of the flat key. Cut between the holes with a jeweler's saw and file the slot even. Make sure it is long enough and close enough to the end of the key to clear the barrel lug. Remove the escutcheon plates on right or left side of the stock, doesn't matter. Cut short 1/16" pins from finishing nails or brads that will fit vertically inside the plates and go through the slots in the keys. Cut a little groove in the wood to fit the pin behind the plate and then put the key in the plate, position the pin in the slot behind the plate and place the whole assembly in the mortise for the plate. Screw it in place. Make sure the slot is filed wide enough so it slides easily on the pin. On guns without removable escutcheon plates, cut and file the slot in the key, place the key all the way in the stock, mark for a hole in the barrel channel such that it will allow the key to be slid out far enough to clear the barrel lug. Then, using a tiny drill (#58 or #59) drill into the barrel channel down into the slot of the key. Drill only as far as the bit reaches the key and goes through the slot but no further. Cut a short pin from the pointed end of a tiny (1/16" or less) brad. Place the pin in the hole in the barrel channel and tap the pin in until the point digs into the stock below the key. Don't be too aggressive. Just tap enough to sink the point and keep the pin in place. Grind or file off any excess pin sticking up in the barrel channel. Once pinned, the key can never be removed so make sure it fits the stock and barrel well and, slides smoothly. You can test how well it works with the pin in place but before setting the pin. On thicker stocks with big wide keys, you can replace the pin with a tiny screw that can be removed.

dave
Great post, Dave.

I'm sure I can speak for all of us in saying that we appreciate your taking the time to explain this sort of thing.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob
 
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