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Strengthen a main spring..
- Thread starter RCall18
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
The Gun Works in Oregon lists new CVA mainsprings for $7.90
Phone: (541) 741-4118
Phone: (541) 741-4118
Have you tested the main spring with a gauge? What is the frizzen doing, not opening all the way? Not enough sparks?
I'm guessing Spanish? Aquired in a trade so ?
If it’s a bad spring get a new one here. CVA Mainspring - P209
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definitely your frizzen is at fault! 
looks like a Spaniard to me. first thing i would do is clean that thing and polish the bearing surfaces. annew spring may not be needed.
looks like a Spaniard to me. first thing i would do is clean that thing and polish the bearing surfaces. annew spring may not be needed.- Joined
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If it were me I'd first check for any cracks around the bend back area and if all is well I'd anneal it, bend it open a bit more and re-harden. If springs are annealed to draw the temper at to high of a heat then they will bend , loose there shape and full strength.
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A simple method that might help. I say might. Insert a brass wedge in the front of the spring so you shorten some of the flex. This is a trial and error method, and might end up breaking the spring if you don't know what you are doing. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Others will have suggestions, but this is a simple one. I would suggest a wedge about 5/8" long to begin with. Take a piece of 1/8" thick brass and file it down to fit the first 5/8"of the forward inside end of the spring. If you have a scale cock the gun and measure the poundage. Scale check again after inserting a wedge. Don't know how much you want, but you should be able to gain a little more spring tension. Eye protection is always recommended when working with springs!
Larry
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Sometimes you can wedge a piece of wood in to the “V” of the spring and that will strengthen it
Idaho Ron
58 Cal.
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Just a question. Why do you think you need a new spring?
If the hammer falls but doesn't set off the cap it could be that the nipple is the wrong size. The first strike sets the cap farther on the nipple, then the second strike fires. If the hammer cocks at the shot, it could be a worn out nipple allowing too much pressure to come back through the nipple.
What are the symptoms?
If the hammer falls but doesn't set off the cap it could be that the nipple is the wrong size. The first strike sets the cap farther on the nipple, then the second strike fires. If the hammer cocks at the shot, it could be a worn out nipple allowing too much pressure to come back through the nipple.
What are the symptoms?
The "symptoms" are my question as well. Mass produced guns, as well as some custom made, can have interference between the lock and the inletting. It doesn't take much contact between wood and metal for the main spring, or the bridle to be impeded. It could also be a sear problem. It may be a weak spring, but I can't rule out various other problems. Does the cock go into half cock and full cock with no resistance? Does the OP screw down the lock screw to unimaginable tightness? More information is needed from the OP.
beardedhorse
Pilgrim
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The pictured lock does not have a frizzen or frizzen spring being a caplock or percussion cap lock. If the barrel has a drum and nipple instead of a snail or patent breech check the alignment of hammer face to nipple. The wedge idea would most likely strain the spring.. Check to see if anyone filed or ground at right angles to the spring arms which would weaken it.
It's just a lock not on a rifle. Hoping cleaning and polish will improve it. Thanks.
Pete G
76 Cal.
Or leather.
