Mineral Oil

Recently I watched a video about different products for cleaning and lubricating firearms. The guy on the video said that most gun oils are based on mineral oil with different additives to make it smell like something really awesome. I've been trying it on some of my guns for a while and haven't noticed anything different between it and regular gun oils. Anybody with "long term" use of mineral oil ? The good thing is mineral oil has been used for all kinds of things like skin oil and bowel lube.

I used it on muzzleloaders and didn’t like it. Petroleum products and black powder don’t play together well. Just my opinion.

Made the switch to a olive oil/bees mixture and life is good.

Mineral oil isn't exactly bad, but for long term rust protection, it's not the greatest.

Jojoba is another oil but over time, it turns gummy.

I use lubriplate mineral oil on modern stuff. Have used it for 3-4 years. It works fine.

My go to for a decade now has been Ballistol which I’ve read, but don’t know otherwise, is a mineral oil based lubricant. Used on all my black powder firearms makes cleaning after a breeze. As for additives for aroma it pretty much smells funky.

I use B. C. "Barricade" for rust protection. But I also found most good GUN OILS work just fine. You don't have to swab out Barricade before you shoot but oils do need to be cleaned out. Oil won't affect BP or its fouling as long as it's swabbed out.

thanks guys

10W-30 for the barrel in and out and WD40 inside the lock and out.

Frederickdav said:

The guy on the video said that most gun oils are based on mineral oil with different additives to make it smell like something really awesome.

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Yeah well, that may be true(?) there's no problem with that, and most common gun oils are good for locks and triggers as lubrication. And external care of gun metals. Petroleum based oils are also good for long term storage use inside the barrel.
But the trouble with oils is most folks forget that topical lubrication oils degrade with time, and fairly quickly. Gun oil's need to be cleaned and refreshed regularly or they can turn gummy and actually slow the primitive mechanisms of our traditional arms (modern gun's also).
Petroleum based oils are also incompatible with BP or BP sub's,, when BP is burned under the pressures of the bore. They quickly oxidize forming a hard tar like substance that is hard to clean and will foul the bore/fire channel causing mis-fires and loss of accuracy.
So it all boils down to basic care, Clean guns, fresh oil, and a clear bore/fire channel.
There is and never has been a forever best lube or a bad lube. It's again,, all about continued proper care of a firearm.

Use what ya have,, but just remember,, to use what ya have,, in continued care for your gun.
If ya put petroleum oil in the bore(?) clean it out before ya shoot it,, it's that simple.
When ya lube the lock and triggers,, clean them frequently and put fresh lube on'm.
That's how ya make guns work,,

I wipe all of my firearms down at least twice a year. Then, if they get fired, a tear down and complete cleaning.

I tend to be a bit obsessive about my muzzleloaders. I'm constantly taking them to the shop in rotation for bore and general maintenance.

For the bores of my percusion rifles I use reduced duck fat. Cook a duck, put the drippings in a pan over low heat, stirring occasionally, and when it starts to thicked, pour into a smaller container and set it aside until it cools. Skim the semi-solid fat from the top surface and save that in a container with a lid. . What you have is a bit of animal fat mixed with preening oil, a great protection and lubicant for rifle bores.

I see no reason it would not work well for patch lube and never thought of getting oil from birds. Still, and I am sorry but it does sound a bit funny. But then I've always found ducks to be very funny; blame it on Daffy Duck.

I have used medicine cabinet mineral oil. My current bottle is 20 years old and is in good condition. It works like any other petroleum oil.

I have also used it as patch lube by diluting it with charcoal lighter. The patches are soaked, wrung out, and dried. You get the same patch as the Ballistol and water method that you pay to find out what it is. The patches work great and are not messy or noticeably oily.

I have never seen any black tar goo fouling from using mineral oil. In fact I have never observed any such fouling from any oil or grease first hand. I suspect that folks used heavy automotive grease on patches and made a mess.

I have used many kinds of animal and plant oils and fats and never observed any particular advantage. This includes, bear, deer, mutton, beef, pork, lanolin, olive oil, crisco soapy water and spit. As well as commercial concoctions. They all work. I have noticed that really slick stuff, like lanolin shoot larger groups than spit or soapy water. I believe that if the lube is to slick the powder does not burn as consistently. Only a hunch.

For storage, try Renaissance Wax, used by museum. I clean, Barricade, and Renaissance Wax. Works for me.

Patriot

I use Fluid Film for everything....even as a hand lotion for winter work outside.

josie wales said:

I use Fluid Film for everything....even as a hand lotion for winter work outside.

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I forgot to plug Fluid Film. It is great stuff. I started using it when LPS-3 became too expensive. It is a lanolin product. That should be attractive t the no petroleum crowd. I find it in automotive supply places, it is relatively cheap, and it smells good and is not hazardous to your skin.