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Blown nipple.

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A buddy of mine has been having problems with a Sante Fe Hawken blowing nipples. I checked the treads and they look sharp and clean. He uses standard 1/4x28 nipples which I assume are correct for that rifle, but if I'm thinking correctly some of the later guns may have been made in Italy and might have different threads.
 
Might be M7 or M8. Thread a 1/4 28 bolt and see how it fits. If loose try an M7, M8.
 
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Are the threads in the bolster the ones that are sharp and clean? If so now is the time to identify those threads correctly. If they aren't OK then they need to be repaired. What do the threads on the blown nipples look like? Are they the ones failing (photo?)? If so then the problem can be a mismatched thread or a case of overtightening when installing the nipple or both. I've seen folks tightening nipples like they were torqueing the head bolts on a small block Chevy. A grade 5 1/4-28 bolt only requires 10 ft-lbs of torque which is easy to exceed.
 
Are the threads in the bolster the ones that are sharp and clean? If so now is the time to identify those threads correctly. If they aren't OK then they need to be repaired. What do the threads on the blown nipples look like? Are they the ones failing (photo?)? If so then the problem can be a mismatched thread or a case of overtightening when installing the nipple or both. I've seen folks tightening nipples like they were torqueing the head bolts on a small block Chevy. A grade 5 1/4-28 bolt only requires 10 ft-lbs of torque which is easy to exceed.
When talking bolts of 1/4"" it is more likely to use inch-pounds instead of foot-pound and even use an inch - ounce torque wrench. One can use a foot-pound torque wrench but it's range for that size of bolt is at the very bottom of the wrench's scale and may not give an accurate reading. You need to use a torque wrench that is in the upper 75% of it's range to get the most accurate reading for the torque value required.
 
Are the threads in the bolster the ones that are sharp and clean? If so now is the time to identify those threads correctly. If they aren't OK then they need to be repaired. What do the threads on the blown nipples look like? Are they the ones failing (photo?)? If so then the problem can be a mismatched thread or a case of overtightening when installing the nipple or both. I've seen folks tightening nipples like they were torqueing the head bolts on a small block Chevy. A grade 5 1/4-28 bolt only requires 10 ft-lbs of torque which is easy to exceed.
I had him bring the gun to my shop for a better look and even though to my eye the threads seem sharp it appears that someone in the past has had the same problem. It appears that they made an attempt to peen the breach to tighten the nipples. I can retap these threads but it seems to be more an issue of the wrong nipple size to me. Here are a few photos of the threads but it's hard to get a close-up in that small of an area.
 

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In the name of everything that is holy.....

Only fix is to tap it out to a larger size, most likely all the way to a 5/16" thread. Doesn't look like the standard 1/4-28 oversized nipples/taps (+.005, +.010, +.015 etc.) would be enough to chase out that mess.
 
That bolster looks like a train wreck! Flintfan69 has it right, start over with a larger hole.

Zug, you are correct. I used ft.-lbs. because I felt some folks would be more familiar with them and could relate easily. BTW, 350 Chevy head bolts take 65 ft.-lbs.

I just noticed someone has drilled and tapped a hole right on the intersection of the breech plug and barrel. It's been filled with a screw and filed flush. Depending of whether or not the hole goes through the barrel and into the breech plug it might make removing it interesting.
 
That bolster looks like a train wreck! Flintfan69 has it right, start over with a larger hole.

Zug, you are correct. I used ft.-lbs. because I felt some folks would be more familiar with them and could relate easily. BTW, 350 Chevy head bolts take 65 ft.-lbs.

I just noticed someone has drilled and tapped a hole right on the intersection of the breech plug and barrel. It's been filled with a screw and filed flush. Depending of whether or not the hole goes through the barrel and into the breech plug it might make removing it interesting.
My thinking is the plugged hole was for a scope mount or something like that, I haven't run a bore scope yet to see if it goes all the way into the barrel, I hope not.
I'm not really liking the though of replacing the breech plug. I have a 7x1 mm tap that I've used to repair old shotgun threads that might work for this just not sure yet.
 
I’m no expert on percussion, but even I can say holy moly is this breech a disaster site. Train wreck + plane crash. Those peen marks are a humongous red flag. I agree that short of replacing that breech, the least is to re-tap the dead threads with a size for which a nipple is made AND available.
 
My thinking is the plugged hole was for a scope mount or something like that, I haven't run a bore scope yet to see if it goes all the way into the barrel, I hope not.
I'm not really liking the though of replacing the breech plug. I have a 7x1 mm tap that I've used to repair old shotgun threads that might work for this just not sure yet.

There should be male breech plug threads under the screw so it can go all the way through the barrel and into the breech plug (think CVA here) locking the plug in place. It may or may not have gone through the breech plug into the powder chamber so it might not be visible with a camera. Hopefully the screw stops short of the plug.
 
A fine example of an uninformed (ignorant) solution to a standard problem.
Yup, my buddy got the gun reasonable enough so fixing it is still a good investment. When he first got it he showed me the peen marks and asked about them, I told him I had no idea why someone would do that guess I do now.... :dunno:
 
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