Lock question

I see a gap between the frizzen and pan, but it doesn't seem enough to bleed fffg. You say your FIL converted from presuction to flint. What I can't see is the lock side of the barrel. PLEASE tell me he installed a touch hole liner and didn't just cut the drum off!

Phil Coffins said:

<inexpensive …………………………expensive >
frustrating …………………………. enjoyable
Pick where you prefer to spend you time and money. You don’t have to be at the extremes but the graph holds true for most things.

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You may not always get what you pay for. But you will rarely get that which you do not pay for.

Wolfpaak said:

There is sentimental value to this gun, so i would like to make it work right. Would it be possible to put a different lock into it?

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You can see from that photo that the actual sides of the barrel outside of where the touch hole is, do not come flush with the inner side of the frizzen...

So I'd suggest a frizzen to fit that lock. So replace that first as that is the easiest.

That looks like a CVA. It also looks like that frizzen is very similar to the lock but is not for that actual lock.

CVA bought rifles from companies in Spain, that were contracted to mark them for CVA, and different model rifles had some lock parts that were interchangeable, BUT also some parts were close (but not quite right) with the same size/hole locations. Sometimes it's tough to tell if the frizzen is right or wrong. Either it was improperly assembled with the wrong frizzen at the factory, or more likely a replacement frizzen was obtained when the original lost sparking..., it wasn't quite the right frizzen..., and voila a leaking pan.

LD

Thank you all for the suggestions.
The rifle shoots great despite me. I've even placed in a 50 yard target match with it.
I will try the handling discipline methods, and also try to tighten up the gap between the frizzen and pan.
My FIL may have just cut off the drum and cut a slot in it for a screw driver. I had trouble getting that out and had to drill it out to replace with an allen headed liner but haven't shot it yet.
Again,
Thanks!!!
Kenny

Here are some top views.
Kenny

For hunting I would get in the habit of sealing the pan with chapstick consistency lube anyway, and, it won't hurt your leakage issue but might help.

Maybe try this to further isolated the problem.
Clean the lock inside and out, including the lock mortice. Have a few sheets of clean white paper or a piece of clean whit cloth (hotel towel?) handy.
Keeping the gun level prime the pan and close the frizzen. Turn the gun lock side down over the white paper or cloth. Maybe even give it a few shakes and slight bumps. You get the idea I'm sure.
Any powder on the white material?
Dump that prime and reprime. Tip the gun lock side up, shake it move it, maybe bump it, but keep it lock up.
Now, level the gun open the pan and keep the pan level as you brush Amy remaining prime out. Remove the lock with the gun over the white material. Tip the lock mortise down over the material and give the sideplate a few light slaps.
Any powder on the white surface? Any visible with a flashlight in the lock mortice?

From the new photos its obvious that the lock fence is not tight against the barrel. That may just be a function of the lock not being inletted deeply enough into the mortice, possibly just the mainspring causing the interference. With the lock tight against the barrel, powder cannot leak out into the lock recess, and I'm sure that is where most of the powder is going. That needs corrected!!! It will prevent powder loss, and potential damage to the stock from the leaked powder igniting in the lock recess. Likewise, with the lock tight against the barrel, ignition will improve.

Once that is corrected, I would recommend laying a bead of JB Weld around the top the the pan and filing it flat to further seal the pan/frzzen. Ideally, tig weld would be better.

Wow, I just realized that gun is wrapped in rawhide? Interesting treatment.