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Several questions from a newbie

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Mrgarbs

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So I'm in the process of setting up a rifle for the new muzzleloader season in Montana primarily for elk inside 150 yds. I have never owned a ML so any and all input is appreciated.

I'm buying a GPR .54 cal with the 1:28" twist rate and just bought a Lyman plains 450gr conical mold from Idaho Lewis here who has been super helpful as well, will be using the Bullshop NASA bullet lube he suggested

The only powder I seem to be able to get my hands on is Pyrodex RS looking for the pros and cons to using that with this setup as well as any starting loads anyone can recommend.

Lead hardness, currently leaning towards the 40-1 alloy from Buffalo arms, if anyone has any experience with it in a similar rifle or that would recommend something better I'm all ears. Keeping in mind i will be hiking through brush with this rifle a good ways so keeping the bullet snug to the powder while bouncing around is a must.

Fluxes, I don't even know where to start.

I'm leaning towards the Pro Melt, anyone have one? pros? cons?

Percussion caps, anything in particular to stay away from or are they all pretty much the same?

If theres anything i missed please educate me as well. Thanks in advance.
 
Mrgarbs said:
So I'm in the process of setting up a rifle for the new muzzleloader season in Montana primarily for elk inside 150 yds. I have never owned a ML so any and all input is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Practice, practice practice....you may want to consider a peep/ tang sight and practice....150 may be pushing it IMHO
Mrgarbs said:
The only powder I seem to be able to get my hands on is Pyrodex RS looking for the pros and cons to using that with this setup as well as any starting loads anyone can recommend.
Click to expand...
Despite the soap boxes, Pyrodex is less forgiving than black powder as far as corrosion and ignition. With this said, many use it with good results. The rifle has to be cleaned, cleaned thoroughly and oiled and then cleaned/oiled again a couple of days later. Do this religiously and corrosion should be kept to a minimum.
When you clean, make sure it's clean and dry under the nipple.
Triple 7 may be a little more forgiving as far as corrosion, I've never used the stuff.
Mrgarbs said:
Lead hardness, currently leaning towards the 40-1 alloy from Buffalo arms, if anyone has any experience with it in a similar rifle or that would recommend something better I'm all ears. Keeping in mind i will be hiking through brush with this rifle a good ways so keeping the bullet snug to the powder while bouncing around is a must.
Click to expand...
Any engraved bullet can slide down the barrel. Get in the habit of keeping the muzzle up and checking the ball from time to time with the rammer. Of course practice muzzle safety around others.
Mrgarbs said:
Percussion caps, anything in particular to stay away from or are they all pretty much the same?
Click to expand...
Anything you can find as long as they are #11s. CCIs, Remington, RWS and now Winchester. I have used most of these, they do fine. These days, it's whatever you can find.
 
The most important solvent to use for is water! Start with water to dissolve the fowling then do anything else you like and oil with a good gun oil.
 
Mrgarbs said:
Fluxes, I don't even know where to start.

I'm leaning towards the Pro Melt, anyone have one? pros? cons?
Click to expand...

I cast quite a lot for the Civil War era guns I shoot.

Pro Melt aka Lee Drip O Matic. Good economical bottom pour. I have one 20lb pot for pure lead and 2 10lb pots for alloys. There are more expensive but these get the job done. Keep the spout clean and use clean alloys to keep problems to a minimum.

Flux- lots of home brews and a couple commercial. I use pine sawdust and beeswax.

For more than you'd ever want to know on casting-

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/
 
As previously mentioned, PRACTICE. 100 yard plus shooting a muzzleloader takes some practice. You will need to work up the right load for the projectile you choose. That alone may take a couple range sessions.
 
Nowithstanding the excellent advice about training long and hard to shoot ANY BP rifle at 100 yards, the general consensus is that anything between 50 and 75 yards is a lot more usual. The big 54cal bullet can fall out of the sky like a greased anvil at your proposed range of 150 yards.
 
Considering you are a newbie with zero experience & considering the learning curve & time required, the Elk season will be over before you get everything ready. I suggest you buy some 54 cal Maxi-Balls from Track of the Wolf, lube them with some SPG lube, drop around 75 grains of FFg, FFFg or equivalent down the barrel & try to get proficient at hitting a target at 75 yards. The rest can wait till after the season & you have time to learn & experiment. Good luck on your quest!!
 
Mrgarbs said:
So I'm in the process of setting up a rifle for the new muzzleloader season in Montana primarily for elk inside 150 yds. I have never owned a ML so any and all input is appreciated.

I'm buying a GPR .54 cal with the 1:28" twist rate and just bought a Lyman plains 450gr conical mold from Idaho Lewis here who has been super helpful as well, will be using the Bullshop NASA bullet lube he suggested

The only powder I seem to be able to get my hands on is Pyrodex RS looking for the pros and cons to using that with this setup as well as any starting loads anyone can recommend.

Lead hardness, currently leaning towards the 40-1 alloy from Buffalo arms, if anyone has any experience with it in a similar rifle or that would recommend something better I'm all ears. Keeping in mind i will be hiking through brush with this rifle a good ways so keeping the bullet snug to the powder while bouncing around is a must.

Fluxes, I don't even know where to start.

I'm leaning towards the Pro Melt, anyone have one? pros? cons?

Percussion caps, anything in particular to stay away from or are they all pretty much the same?

If theres anything i missed please educate me as well. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
I have an older Lyman GPR; I bet many a deer taken with them overall! (I don't hunt).
 
My jaw dropped when my dad showed me how to clean a muzzleloader. I would never let a drop of water that isn't rain near any of my unmentionables (modern cartridge shotguns/rifles). You can get away with putting a modern shotgun away after shooting and clean it some days later or even not clean it, but the residue of blackpowder is corrosive to metal and will cause pitting and damage if not cleaned the same day. I find cleaning my blackpowder guns to be far easier and more satisfying though because the water or soap and water get the gun squeaky clean whereas I could pull a hundred patches through a modern gun and still see powder residue on the patch even if just a little.
 
I built the same rifle about 36 years ago. I have two barrels for it, a 1:66 twist RB barrel and a 1:32 twist conical barrel.
I shoot 435 gr Maxiballs in the conical barrel, 100 gr black powder (Goex), #11 magnum caps (regular are fine also).
Guessing you'll be using Pyrodex for starters, based on what's available these days.
I also installed an Uncle Mike's "hot shot" nipple.
Best wishes to you as you start out using and hunting with your muzzleloader.
.....and what was said above :
> practice, practice, practice.
 
Mrgarbs said:
Percussion caps, anything in particular to stay away from or are they all pretty much the same?
Click to expand...

If you're using No 11s, then there really isn't too much difference. If you plan on using musket caps, then yes, there is a difference. Good to go caps- RWS and Schuetzen. Garbage caps- anything CCI excepting the old 6 wings sadly out of production.
 

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