I have grown weary.

I've never had any issues using pyrodex in my TC Renegade caplock. However, I'd never use it in a flintlock.

I've never been able to get Pyrodex to reliably fire in a flint system, but it works fine in all of my caplocks. I use 'real' b.p. because i have a bunch of it

I'm weary off all this stuff too.....
All of this shall pass.
With this said,
I guess I'm not quite weary enough to start yet another thread on it.

sussexmuzllodr said:

of the pyro vs. Holy Black debate. I have used both with good results in both a Flintlock and Cap rifles. I have used P-dex crushed to my liking in pans with similar results to B.P. but it got the job done. I have never had a situation where neither had performed as expected. Shot is shot and meat is meat. for some to dismiss it usage outright to me is ignorance . Some may have tried it and had no problems, maybe you should revisit. but when it came down to completing the task t at hand it did its job. in the end clean your implements of hunting. JMHO

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So, why bring it up? Just use what you use.
Robby

sawyer04 said:

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I'll buy some from you

Boy, I hate pydrodex, not really, I have shot sub 1" groups with it at 100 yards(modern unmentionable before I went back to my roots).

There is one thing I really find objectionable about pydrodex, the smell of the smoke, that stuff just don't smell right, as we used to say in East Tennessee.

The black powder smoke smell brings back memories, just like a faint wood smoke smell from a distant campfire wafting through the spruce and hemlock forest does at dusk in the mountains.

You get the picture......

mushka said:

Many of us have become weary also but there are several who aren't tired enough of the discussion yet. Bear up, it'll end one of these days.

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It will end when and only end when politics force BP off the market, that will happen sooner than most believe. Also there is NO argument over which is better, it is more of a choice as those that have BP and those that don't.

I very seriously doubt this discussion will ever end, except when one the other or both aren't available and even then, folks will talk about how things were. Honestly, old and dead beaten horses are the meat and potatoes of an internet forum. What's old to a veteran hobbyist is new to the guy getting into it. I know that it would be ideal if everyone did searches for their answers, but as things change and evolve so does the discussion. This particular topic is impacted by the Goex closure and recent supply issues. A past discussion may not be relevant. Besides, people like to come on internet forums and discuss their hobby, the more and varied the opinions the more fun and informative.

Was testing a new flint .22 cal build the other day. Grabbed a small flask of powder, loaded it up and was only getting 1in 3 or four panfulls to flash, much less fire. Changed the flint, pricked the vent, did everything. Finally realized that it was 777 in the flask. I use it from time to time in my .32 And in my revolvers. The lock is not stellar, but it did get the 777 to fire every now and again.
Grabbed some Goex 3F, and it fired every time. - lesson learned(other than marking flasks) 777 will work in a flintlock in a pinch, just wouldn`t want to rely on it.

Eric Krewson said:

Boy, I hate pydrodex, not really, I have shot sub 1" groups with it at 100 yards(modern unmentionable before I went back to my roots).

There is one thing I really find objectionable about pydrodex, the smell of the smoke, that stuff just don't smell right, as we used to say in East Tennessee.

The black powder smoke smell brings back memories, just like a faint wood smoke smell from a distant campfire wafting through the spruce and hemlock forest does at dusk in the mountains.

You get the picture......

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sub 1" groups? If I hated it I would still use it!

Stop Bitchin and shoot what ever you want to shoot. I shoot real BP and love it. I also like 777 3Fg in my caplocks and "Really Liked" Black MZ in my caplocks before the plant caught on fire again. Shooter's World has brought it back which is a good thing, according from what I have seen on the Graf's website. The only real Pyrodex I ever used was the Select and it worked fine in my caplock. Flintlocks really prefer real BP hands down. Caplocks are just more forgiving with the BP substitutes. Again, just shoot what you want or what works for you.
My 2 cents

My dos centavos, and that is about all it is worth, is this: I use both (BP and Pyrodex) and have good results with both. I have used Pyrodex in BP cylinder revolvers and caplocks for years, as I had no black powder. Pyrodex was available and cheap. I have several pounds of RS bought at Chinamart for $5 a pound on close out. I find a pound or two each year that way.

A while back I decided to add flint locks to the locker and got with a bud to “group buy” some black powder (4f, 3f, 2f). I tried Pyrodex (both RS and P) in my flintlocks both as the main charge and for priming, and found it lacking. I did find it fine for a main charge with a little black powder “kicker” and 4f as prime. I will probably continue to attempt to use up my stash of Pyrodex in this way, for all cap lock guns and with a kicker in flintlocks, when I feel like messing with it.

Well if you're really tired of beating this horse. New guys could always start up. Lead or leather. Ive kind of always been amazed at how something as pure and simple as a flintlock. Powder patch ball. Can get so over analyzed to become complicated.

I've tried pyro . several years back. To me, it was harder to clean w/o leaving rust. It failed to fire several times till the second cap. Once it took three caps. I'll stick with BP. Hopefully this shortage will be gone before I'm out. If pyro works for you, great...............

I'm with the others who've said they've had no issues with Pyrodex in a revolver. As for cleanup, I have no issues with it. I just use some olive oil to break up and remove the bulk of the fouling, follow it up with some Damn Good Bore Solvent and then follow it up with more olive oil to work into the grain of the metal. I haven't dunked my revolver once, and it's never gotten a speck of dust on it *knock on wood*.

By the way, the tome of knowledge contained in the geojohn blog I read said that black powder and its substitutes don't do well when mineral oil is applied to their fouling. I haven't tried it because I don't want to risk the gummy mess, so I can't say for sure if that's the case. Olive oil has really done well, though.

Pyrodex is the "Near Beer" of powder, might be a substitute but not even close to the real thing. If it works for you, dandy.

Flintlock said:

Pyrodex is the "Near Beer" of powder, might be a substitute but not even close to the real thing. If it works for you, dandy.

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Someone posted the ingredients in Ptrodex a couple of days back and it was the same as black powder with a few other substances thrown in?

Read my post again Bill, the hated it was tongue in cheek followed by a "not really".

To use pydrodex again and get the same sub 1" groups I would have to own another scoped black unmentionable thingy and that ain't going to happen. I have 7 flintlocks(I made 5 of them) and 3 percussion guns, all sidelocks, no more black thingies for me.

Helped a kid last week with a rifle that had pellets in the barrel for 10yrs. I measured 2 pellets and the bullets his dad originally loaded the rifle with to make sure of the load. Determined it was not double loaded so I sand bagged the rifle and shot it, would have disassembled if I had the proper tools. Gun fired okay with a 10yr old pyro load. My first with anything other than BP or 777, sure makes going hunting look a little easier. Each to his own, gonna stick with BP because my plans are to build a flinter for myself. Fellas keep up the threads about your new rifles ya'll are building because they are building a fire under me. Planning on starting as soon as I master casting my own bullets. HAHA