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My next build Jim Chambers PA Fowler

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I worked on fitting the side plate today. I removed the cast sprue and cleaned up the edges of the brass. The rear point in the mortise was wider than the plate causing a gap. This was easily fixed by widening the metal with a hammer.
My next task will be to disassemble the lock, drill the lock bolts and tap the lock plate.

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I worked on fitting the side plate today. I removed the cast sprue and cleaned up the edges of the brass. The rear point in the mortise was wider than the plate causing a gap. This was easily fixed by widening the metal with a hammer.
My next task will be to disassemble the lock, drill the lock bolts and tap the lock plate.

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I am enjoying this tutorial very much. Looks like you are doing a great job! Your drilling setup is cool also. Perfect line-up 😀
 
I am enjoying this tutorial very much. Looks like you are doing a great job! Your drilling setup is cool also. Perfect line-up 😀
Thanks @PathfinderNC. I've enjoyed following your Pecatonica build. I tried to find that fella that made that Jig you have. Thats a great looking tool. Love to get one. Does he list it in the classifieds on the other forum?
 
Thanks @PathfinderNC. I've enjoyed following your Pecatonica build. I tried to find that fella that made that Jig you have. Thats a great looking tool. Love to get one. Does he list it in the classifieds on the other forum?
The Pecatonica build is on hold as I await a missing part and a replacement triggerguard (I broke it), Here is a link to one of his threads in the ALR forum ("Rifle Building Vise"). It may help you contact him?
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=55589.msg556156#msg556156
 
Today I drilled and tapped the lock bolts.

This is my process:
Mark drill holes in lock mortise wood and side plate with a punch. This is so the jig point will have a place to sit and guide the drill bit.

Using drill press jig with #29 drill bit, drill side plate and halfway through wood. Flip it and finish drilling the hole. For the back bolt hole I finished the hole with hand drill in vise. I could have finished it with the jig but something looked a little off so I went with the hand drill.

Install lock plate.
Put stock in vise, from side plate side use #29 tap drill bit to drill lock plate holes. I went all the way through on the front hole, but not through on the back where the bolster is.

Tap the lock threads with 8-32 tap then remove lock plate. I had to modify my tap so it would reach the bottom of the hole in the lock plate bolster.

Remove lock plate.

Install side plate.
Drill clearance holes with a #18 bit through side plate and wood.

Cut bolts to proper length, cleanup threads. Install to check the fit.

This came out very well. Here's some pics.
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Hatchet Jack . . . I'm no pro builder, but you are doing an outstanding job and doing it right. Your pics bring back good memories I have of my build a few years ago of the LH PA fowler. I posted before, but your pics inspired me to take mine outside for a few quick pics (hoping the neighbors were not looking !) (BTW - the LH model is a siler lock. I made my lock a little more plain and less Germanic, rounding the pan base some and eliminating the liness on the lock plate. In part simply because I have a LH siler on my other build - a late lancaster from TVM. )
Here's some more inspiration, perhaps.
 

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Hatchet Jack . . . I'm no pro builder, but you are doing an outstanding job and doing it right. Your pics bring back good memories I have of my build a few years ago of the LH PA fowler. I posted before, but your pics inspired me to take mine outside for a few quick pics (hoping the neighbors were not looking !) (BTW - the LH model is a siler lock. I made my lock a little more plain and less Germanic, rounding the pan base some and eliminating the liness on the lock plate. In part simply because I have a LH siler on my other build - a late lancaster from TVM. )
Here's some more inspiration, perhaps.
Thank you sir! Your Fowler looks beautiful!
 
Thank you sir! Your Fowler looks beautiful!

Your's will look beautiful too, I can tell already !!

I am building a southern TN from a plank right now .. . my next build after that which will take some time ( it will take even longer to gather funds ) is probably going to be a Chambers Issac Haines rifle.

By the way, I was originally going to pin the entire trigger guard, but I chickened out . . I could just see a drill bit hole drifting in my mind on that nice round wrist . . .and the screws actually grew to where I liked them. You clearly have the skill to pin if you noticed my two screws.
 
Worked on the ramrod today. The one that came with the kit is about 1/2" thick!

About 1/16" of the front lock bolt was in the channel blocking the ramrod. I made a scraper by hammering the end of a piece of round stock to give it an edge. I scraped the ramrod channel out to give it enough clearance so the ramrod will slip by it. My plan B would be to take the diameter of the bolt down but this worked so no need.

I then used a pair of sheet metal shears in a vise to plane the ramrod down to the right diameter. It fits well.

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Worked on the ramrod today. The one that came with the kit is about 1/2" thick!

About 1/16" of the front lock bolt was in the channel blocking the ramrod. I made a scraper by hammering the end of a piece of round stock to give it an edge. I scraped the ramrod channel out to give it enough clearance so the ramrod will slip by it. My plan B would be to take the diameter of the bolt down but this worked so no need.

I then used a pair of sheet metal shears in a vise to plane the ramrod down to the right diameter. It fits well.

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That's a neat trick with the shears!
 
I had the pleasure of visiting Jeff Talbert today. I got some lessons in carving and he helped me with my butt plate. Here's a few pics.

Jeff's work station with his current build in the vise. He spent some time teaching me about carving techniques, terminology, tools and showed me how to stab in lines.

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Almost there!
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I remember that the buttplate on my PA fowler was a lot harder than the Lancaster one I did on a TVM kit.
 
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