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Lock Removal

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paco97

40 Cal.
Joined
Dec 4, 2005
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Are there any instructions anywhere on the net for removing the Lock. I need to do some work on my frizzen.
 
Place the hammer on half cock, loosen the lock screw on the side opposite the lock and tap the lock screw to loosen the lock in the mortise and then remove it. There is nothing inside there to fall out when you remove it.
 
paco97 said:
Are there any instructions anywhere on the net for removing the Lock. I need to do some work on my frizzen.

Hi Paco97,

I have that same rifle. Loosen the two screws on the side plate, put the hammer at half cock, and tap on the heads of the lock screws. This will push the lock pretty well straight out without having to pry on anything or possibly chip the wood.

Now, here's the important part: DON'T LET THE SCREW IN THE FRONT BACK OUT OF ITS HOLE!!! You can remove the back screw no problem, but if you remove the front screw completely, the spring that holds the ramrod in place will fall out of place and you will need to remove the barrel to put it back.

The front screw holds in a spring-like pressure plate that holds in your ramrod. The front lock screw goes through a hole in the plate and anchors it in place. If you pull the screw out it comes loose, falls down into the ramrod channel, and will jam your ramrod when you try to pull out or put it back in. Then the only answer is to unpin and pull the barrel so you can reset it all. Not much fun....did it two or three times.....don't recommend it.

I used to put a piece of scotch tape over the head of the foremost screw when I would take the lock out for cleaning. Was a real pain. Then I had a gunsmith friend of mine drill a hole right in front of the frizzen spring and we pinned in that pesky spring so I don't have to worry about it anymore. Now I can take both lock screws out without a problem.

Hope this helps.
---------------------------------------------
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
 
Not familiar with the rifle, but your advice sounds solid. Stitch in time saves nine et all.
 
twisted_1in66 said:
paco97 said:
Are there any instructions anywhere on the net for removing the Lock. I need to do some work on my frizzen.

Hi Paco97,

I have that same rifle. Loosen the two screws on the side plate, put the hammer at half cock, and tap on the heads of the lock screws. This will push the lock pretty well straight out without having to pry on anything or possibly chip the wood.

Now, here's the important part: DON'T LET THE SCREW IN THE FRONT BACK OUT OF ITS HOLE!!! You can remove the back screw no problem, but if you remove the front screw completely, the spring that holds the ramrod in place will fall out of place and you will need to remove the barrel to put it back.

The front screw holds in a spring-like pressure plate that holds in your ramrod. The front lock screw goes through a hole in the plate and anchors it in place. If you pull the screw out it comes loose, falls down into the ramrod channel, and will jam your ramrod when you try to pull out or put it back in. Then the only answer is to unpin and pull the barrel so you can reset it all. Not much fun....did it two or three times.....don't recommend it.

I used to put a piece of scotch tape over the head of the foremost screw when I would take the lock out for cleaning. Was a real pain. Then I had a gunsmith friend of mine drill a hole right in front of the frizzen spring and we pinned in that pesky spring so I don't have to worry about it anymore. Now I can take both lock screws out without a problem.

Hope this helps.
---------------------------------------------
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

Why not get rid of that mess and install a simple keeper leaf spring in the ramrod channel in front of the entry thimble? Works great on both my rifles and I do not have to worry about such silly poorly designed machinry. Just a thought. I shudder to think that I would have to go to such trouble to replace a hidden part. :youcrazy:

Davy
 
twisted_1in66 said:
paco97 said:
Are there any instructions anywhere on the net for removing the Lock. I need to do some work on my frizzen.

Hi Paco97,

I have that same rifle. Loosen the two screws on the side plate, put the hammer at half cock, and tap on the heads of the lock screws. This will push the lock pretty well straight out without having to pry on anything or possibly chip the wood.

Now, here's the important part: DON'T LET THE SCREW IN THE FRONT BACK OUT OF ITS HOLE!!! You can remove the back screw no problem, but if you remove the front screw completely, the spring that holds the ramrod in place will fall out of place and you will need to remove the barrel to put it back.

The front screw holds in a spring-like pressure plate that holds in your ramrod. The front lock screw goes through a hole in the plate and anchors it in place. If you pull the screw out it comes loose, falls down into the ramrod channel, and will jam your ramrod when you try to pull out or put it back in. Then the only answer is to unpin and pull the barrel so you can reset it all. Not much fun....did it two or three times.....don't recommend it.

I used to put a piece of scotch tape over the head of the foremost screw when I would take the lock out for cleaning. Was a real pain. Then I had a gunsmith friend of mine drill a hole right in front of the frizzen spring and we pinned in that pesky spring so I don't have to worry about it anymore. Now I can take both lock screws out without a problem.

Hope this helps.
---------------------------------------------
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

Why not get rid of that mess and install a simple keeper leaf spring in the ramrod channel in front of the entry thimble? It is hid when the ramrod is in place. Works great on both my rifles and I do not have to worry about such silly poorly designed machinry. Just a thought. I shudder to think that I would have to go to such trouble to replace a hidden part. :youcrazy:

Davy
 
Interesting.....which manufacturer puts a rod retaining spring that is held in place by the front lock screw? And on what model gun? I'm just curious. Perhaps a military arm with a metal rod? My 1763 Charleville doesn't have a spring though that I recall. I've had a couple guns where the front lock screws were notched to clear the rod, so you had to get them screwed in just right.
Can't recall any I've owned or built which had or needed a spring to retain the rod though.
I usually keep front and rear screws separated when I pull the lock. But only because they tend to fit better when put back in their respective original positions.
Jack
 
LeatherMoose said:
Both CVA and Traditions use(d) this system. Cheap and reliable.
I built three CVA guns from their kits around 1978 and none had a spring-thing to secure the rod, nor did they need one.
I wonder when they decided the rod would fall out without a spring retainer? :smile:
Jack
 
If you pull the ramrod out a couple of inches the lock screw will turn easyer,after the lock is out i push the rod back in as far as it will go.It will put pressure back on the screw and it wont fall out.just reverse the process when putting the lock back in.I also put a little tape over the other one also unless im going to clean it and lube it.Sould work on the penn rifle maybe.
 
I have a traditions and there is no spring in mine. I know the front screw holds the ramrod some, and I've had mine apart numerous times.

Frank
 
buckknife said:
If you pull the ramrod out a couple of inches the lock screw will turn easyer,after the lock is out i push the rod back in as far as it will go.It will put pressure back on the screw and it wont fall out.just reverse the process when putting the lock back in.I also put a little tape over the other one also unless im going to clean it and lube it.Sould work on the penn rifle maybe.

Hey Buckknife,
Wish I'd thought of that. I had no idea about the spring until I pulled the lock out the first time and got the ramrod stuck. Since I now have it pinned in place, it's no longer a problem.

---------------------------------------
Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
 
Snarf said:
I have a traditions and there is no spring in mine. I know the front screw holds the ramrod some, and I've had mine apart numerous times.

Frank

The Traditions Pennsylvania Longrifle is the model I'm talking about. Also claims to be "certified" accurate for rev war reenactment. It's not accurate for rev war. Is really a golden age rifle. Nice shooter though!
 

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