• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Newbie with 58 Remington cleaning question

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Hupper

32 Cal.
Joined
Jun 4, 2004
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
I am getting ready to buy a '58, and I am a little confused on cleaning the entire revolver. Thanks in advance for any info.
When cleaning, do yall dunk the whole frame in water (to include the action) or just the portion of the frame at the breech with muzzle in first. If the action gets the whole dunk, how do yall get it totally dry?
 
Hello Hupper,
For every response you get to your post you will get a differnt cleaning method. Everybody does it a little different. Heres how I do it.
I do not use water on my revolvers. I use a good quality black powder solvent, like Birchwood Casey. I pull out the cylinder and take out all nipples. I soak nipples in solvent and use a toothbrush soaked in solvent to clean all exterior surfaces of cylinder and revolver frame. Paying close attention to the hand and cylinder stop. I use a cleaning rod , brush and jag for the barrel and cylinder. I use pipe cleaners to get inside the nipples. Every third time out shooting I totally strip the revolver and clean all parts idividually. Using black powder solvent. Then before assembly I spray all the parts and inside frame (hand channel) with brake cleaner. It displaces water/solvent and evapoates. Then I oil it up and reasemble.
I probably srip and clean more than I should but I enjoy doing it.
Doc Will
Keep Yer Powder Dry
 
My answer is about the same as Doc Will's except I just use some dish soap and Very warm water.

I would NOT recommend dumping the reciever into the water. There are several thin springs inside which shouldn't get wet.

IMO the only place that gets a lot of fouling is the front and rear of the frame where the cylinder sits, the rammer, the barrel bore and the exposed threads at the back of the barrel, the cylinder, nipples and hammer nose.
Not a lot of fouling seems to get into the cylinder stop slot or the cylinder hand slot although the exposed area of the hand should be cleaned with a pipe cleaner or toothbrush.

I would also recommend using a spray lube to spray down into the hammer pivot area and the hand slot.

Happy Shooting!
 
Ditto most of what was already mentioned. I do not wet the innerds of the revolver due to the small springs and goodies that should not be allowed rust.
The break parts cleaner is great for blasting crud out of the innerds and then spray oil. You won't have any trouble with rust.
Most of the fouling will be in the top strap, cylinder, forcing cone, barrel, both inside and out.
Let us know what you buy and we will help you all we can. I own 2 '58's and they are tons of fun.
I've taken a squirrel and raccoon with mine.
In fact I like them so much just send me yours and I'll break it in for you and keep it for about a year or two sending you regular reports on how it shoots.
How 'bout it? :haha: :bull: :haha: :bull:
 
I take the grips and trigger guard off, remove the cylinder. Then I put it on full cock and squirt windex on everything except the grips.....I also remove the nipples and soak them in windex (ammonia)....use a toothbrush and a cheap narrow paint brush in places......then I run everything under the hot water faucet in the sink (make sure you have a drain strainer to catch the damn nipples you fumble).....also make sure you dry the bore to prevent flash rust, after that I put it in the oven at about 200' for about 15min.......oil with your favorite (I use breakfree spray or Balistol)......I'm no expert but I've been doing this since 1969 and shoot precussion revolver about 4 time a month.....If it can be done or undone with a cap & ball revolver it has happen to me.......john......
 
I clean mine about the same as the others. I do not dunk mine. I take as hot as I can stand dish soap water and a cloth and wash all the fowling I can off the frame and parts. I then scrub the cylinders and barrel with Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber. I found some small scrubbing brushes (A three pack) made of brass, nylon, and steel for a buck at a grab all store, so I bought four packs of them. I use the nylon brush and solvent and then scrub the thing again, then wipe it out with some paper towels. Then off to the air compresser and I blast it with high pressure air to blow off anything I might have missed and any moisture that is on there. I then spray in with Birchwood Casey Sheath and wipe it all out and reassemble the nipples and cylinder. It still looks like new to me....

They really are a lot of fun to shoot these revolvers. As the others will tell you, they are real accurate.
 
Back
Top