Blunderbuss- Middlesex or Veterans or ????

Why not just deal directly with loyalist?

"Why not just deal directly with loyalist?"

The flintlock is ready to go. The vent is drilled and it has been test fired. Then I don't have to wait for it to pass thru customs. Paid more for it but like I said I will get it quicker and ready to fire.

I don't know if I glanced at Loyalist Arms site right but they wanted US $699 . For some reason I thought they would be cheaper. I was wrong.

Loyalist reflects current prices. Im assuming the other bought at the previous price from loyalist and don't know the prices have gone up or are clearing out their inventory

don't the majority of them all come from INDIA?

toot said:

don't the majority of them all come from INDIA?

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Think of it like buying a kit in the white. If you do buy one and build it did you build it or did the manufacture? If you say the manufacture there are many people here that would be offended that you don't credit them. Some parts manufactures are better than others just as some builders are better than others.

my thoughts exactaly.

Got it today . Sparks well. As soon as rain is over Iwill shoot it . I am thinking of 75 grs bp / 1 1/8 oz #6 load sky chief.

The "India" guns are actually Pakistani. From what I have heard, they are safe- but quality of the locks and fit varies. I would not buy any without seeing it in person first, so I could check it out. Nor would I consider the company that sells fully complete, fully functional but non-firing guns you have to drill the touch hole for in order to make it work... which then voids the warranty. Either it is a gun with a warranty or not.

hailcaesar said:

Got it today . Sparks well. As soon as rain is over Iwill shoot it . I am thinking of 75 grs bp / 1 1/8 oz #6 load sky chief.

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Let me know how it fires, I got the Veteran arms french blunderbuss. I think they are basically the same thing. Some observations from mine:

• It eats flint up quickly.
• Has 20lb trigger pull with no travel haha.
• There seems to be a gap between the lock and barrel that loves to let soot shoot into and get into the wood and inner working of the lock. Removing the lock every time I'm done firing is a requirement to clean.
• .32 Shot pattern is completely unreliable as of now and I cannot find out how to get it more accurate.
• .69 round ball is incredibly accurate considering. Firing with paper cartridge produces reliable hits on a 20-25 yard target.
• Haven't noticed a difference between 60-90 grains.
• The brass is a absolute PITA to clean and I haven't found a way to reliably clean the barrel without intensive scrubbing.
• Coffee filters are your friend for wadding and cartridge paper. They will burn so don't shoot into a dry field.
• Did I mention its a total pain in the rear to clean this thing?

The first time I dry fired it I thought to myself if I had cocked it or not. Yes I might have to go to a commercial truck weight scale to get the trigger pull #. Being the barrel so short, 16", for live loads I will keep it between 65 to 75 grains Blank loads I will start at 80 grains. I use blue magic on my bronze cannon and get a mirror shine on it. I was going to use cotton balls and 10 gauge shot cards. I will find out soon on firing it. I have some stuff on order and should be here Friday. I do need to get a 69 cal plus round ball mold. Largest I have is 62 cal.

hailcaesar said:

The first time I dry fired it I thought to myself if I had cocked it or not. Yes I might have to go to a commercial truck weight scale to get the trigger pull #. Being the barrel so short, 16", for live loads I will keep it between 65 to 75 grains Blank loads I will start at 80 grains. I use blue magic on my bronze cannon and get a mirror shine on it. I was going to use cotton balls and 10 gauge shot cards. I will find out soon on firing it. I have some stuff on order and should be here Friday. I do need to get a 69 cal plus round ball mold. Largest I have is 62 cal.

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Be careful with those cardboard shot cards. I'll check the size of card I was using on mine, but I think mine were either 11 or 10 gauge, and instead of firing out when I shot the thing, they were twisting to the side like a valve and letting the pressure through while lodged. I didn't pay attention to my ram rod position when loading and apparently I was shooting with about 8 cards down the barrel. Super stupid mistake, but if those cards are too tight they will lodge in the barrel as was the case with me (also crappy home made lube I think was making them stick together)
Big wad of nasty cardboard came out and cost me $20 on a range trip where I couldn't even fire the thing. Took an air compressor to clear it.

Osseon said:

• It eats flint up quickly.
• Has 20lb trigger pull with no travel haha.

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hailcaesar said:

The first time I dry fired it I thought to myself if I had cocked it or not. Yes I might have to go to a commercial truck weight scale to get the trigger pull #.

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And now you see why I recommend Veteran Arms . . .

Commodore Swab said:

And now you see why I recommend Veteran Arms . . .

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Mine is actually veteran arms. I mean it fires and its a working weapon, there are just like 2 things about it I really wish were different, because cleaning it is a bear.

The lock tuning is getting better. I often go thru locks and make them reliable but that takes time and effort on each piece to make them really good. This one I am working on is still sparking strong and I have over 100 test fires on the lock and same flint.

Vid of first firing. 75 gr bp with matching volume #6 shot. Paper towel used for wad between powder/shot and also to hold shot in. The 10 gauge shot cards were too small to use. I had fun. Tricon hat with white shrimping boots. So period correct. Selfie so left is right.

I personally bought a blunderbuss from Middlesex village. Never had a single problem and the gun was delivered quickly. From what ive heard from previous customers who ordered before, I got lucky! When you order from Middlesex, the touch hole is drilled for you. The frizzen was already hardened and the lock action is decent. I got it tuned up, refinished, and engraved by gunsmith Dennis Priddy two years back. It runs so well. The only major problem I had with the gun was the brass inlay was terrible, but that's what can happen when you order an Indian repro.

For a price comparison if you want a blunderbuss with a brass barrel, here's the list. Keep in mind that all 3 of these sites have slightly different variations of the same blunderbuss. Some have a doglock, others with a longer stock, and some with different lock styles.

Veteran (No touchhole drilled) - $690
Middlesex (drilled touchhole) - $675
Military Heritage (No touchhole drilled) - $570

The biggest advantage that these Indian guns have over any other repro company is that the locks are forged! Not cast steel like those from the Rifle Shoppe and Pedersoli. The finish may not look the best, but the steel is strong enough for serious use. I believe the barrels on these Indian guns are made from industrial grade steel.

Mine is made out of solid brass and has endured many events and shooting matches. Say hello to Puff:

Commodore Swab said:

Those are tiger's guns and I rank them below that of India pieces. Veteran strips the entire stock down and will tweak the springs to get better lock action than factory. Loyalist turns out better pieces but doesn't put the effort into the lock. Middlesex tends to have more lock problems and military heritage fills in the bottom. In general the French locks are the most reliable on the blunderbusses.

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Did not know that Veteran tweaks the springs! Do they do this for all there guns? What's the action feel like? I'm bookmarking this so I will know which of these companies I should purchase from next

It's minor tweaking but still a tweaking. They also strip the stocks and refinish them in a darker walnut looking color.

TooTall said:

Veteran (No touchhole drilled) - $690

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Veteran drills touchholes.