Priming Powder

So I have always used the same FFFG powder that load my flintlock rifle with to prime the pan... I know most people use FFFFG for priming and it supposed to give a faster ignition than just using 3f like I always have. So today I crushed up a very small (safe) amount and filled my primining tool. Has anyone tried this before? It seems a waste to me to buy a different granule size powder to prime with and what I crushed up is smaller than 4f and more of a powder. (Before anyone jumps in to say this is unsafe, I only crushed 10 grains at a time and wore welding gloves and a face shield while doing so).

While I cannot chime in on the safety aspects of doing this yourself my thoughts are I will continue to buy the manufactured powder in the Fg configuration I want. The reason is the current manufacturers are the experts in this. Their manufacturing has been around a very long time and they know what they are doing. You get uniform burn time set to standards that is tested and accepted. I just don't want to risk doing this on my own resulting in injury, it's just not worth it to me. While I have no judgments on what you are doing, it's not my choice.

Turner Kirkland recommended a porcelain saucer and a teaspoon to grind powder to smaller sizes for priming. I've done it a few times. I still have all my digits.

I don't think you'll go to hell for it, maybe TMF purgatory.

The biggest problem with crushing or grinding 3f to make priming powder is that it destroys the glazed coating on the grains that makes BP moisture resistant. Not a good idea on a wet or humid day or doing it in bulk or very far in advance of shooting as the powder will be more susceptible to moisture and clumping.

I'm not sure I understand how having a separate priming powder is "a waste". It all gets used and properly stored blackpowder will likely outlast you and me. That said....go ahead on and crush to your heart's content if that works for you.
Oh, and btw: finer priming powder isn't "supposed to give faster ignition"..it's been measured, and it does.
https://www.blackpowdermag.com/priming-powder-timing/I've been fortunate to have been able to spend time with Pletch in his booth at Friendship. We also used his equipment to document the improvement in ignition speed when an older flint is replaced with a well knapped new one. One interesting observation was that the FIRST shot with a new flint is not usually the fastest across a series of measurements using the same rock.

My understanding is that 4F GOEX does not have the graphite coating of the 2F/3F granulations to enhance ignition speed. Some years ago I used a ceramic laboratory grade mortar./pistol to(carefully) grind some 4F down more of a powder with a consistency similar to Null-B. While it did seem to produce faster ignition, I didn’t see much of a difference in my bench and off-hand shooting accuracy so I didn’t continue the practice. I expect the much finer powder-like consistency to be more susceptible caking over 4F in the presence of moisture, commonly I have encountered in hunting conditions which can even be an issue with 4F.

For many years I have used a mix of 4F or Null-B with 3F powder for priming. My unscientific theory is that it provides the benefits of faster ignition and less susceptibility to caking from moisture. Whatever the reason, I rarely have a failure to ignite unless my flint was really worn and needed knapping or replacement.

I tried it but, although it worked ok you loose the consistency of the grain size so theoretically you would get a tiny variation in ignition, not so you'd notice, just stick to the ready done stuff, works well, ssems expensive gram for gram but lasts for ages

coloradoclyde said:

The biggest problem with crushing or grinding 3f to make priming powder is that it destroys the glazed coating on the grains that makes BP moisture resistant. Not a good idea on a wet or humid day or doing it in bulk or very far in advance of shooting as the powder will be more susceptible to moisture and clumping.

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This is true to an extent but rain is evil on pan powder. But for humid air the coating helps. The main reason for the coating is to prevent static from igniting powder.

garypl said:

For many years I have used a mix of 4F or Null-B with 3F powder for priming. My unscientific theory is that it provides the benefits of faster ignition and less susceptibility to caking from moisture. Whatever the reason, I rarely have a failure to ignite unless my flint was really worn and needed knapping or replacement.

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Can any body elaborate on the use of null-B powder usage for any purpose. Most if not all references I see about it seem to discourage the use of such powder.

Buzz

It's Swiss priming powder - very fine like 4F

45man said:

The main reason for the coating is to prevent static from igniting powder.

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You are thinking of the graphite coating, I was referring to the glazing process.

Additionally, I read somewhere that 4ffff and or nullB were formulated differently than 1,2,or 3f, for easier ignition. I won't describe how it's different as that gets too much into the making process. And I don't know if it is still correct.

4F is always good to have on hand and lasts a long time since only tiny charges are used in the pan. But if that doesn't interest you then simply use 3F as both main charge AND prime. The difference between 3F and 4F in the pan is minor and likely not detectable; at least I can't tell a difference. The only reason I prefer 4F for prime is that it does work in primers (and not just the brass thingies).

I don't like 4F. It attracts too much moisture. I find 3F for pan and charge works better. If it's slower than 4F I sure don't feel it.

I quit charging my pans with 4F back in 1980 because it was not coated, and it escaped from pans of inexpensive flintlocks much quicker than 3F under hunting conditions. I do NOT experience any lag in ignition caused by priming with 3F . I have found that more ignition issues are caused by touch hole placement than ignition time of BP.

I use 3fg in the pan of my .32 as well as for the main charge. I notice no difference in lock time vs using 4fg in the pan. I may just start using it in my .54 caliber flintl9ck as well.

Not stealing the thread i hope but where does the term 7f come from? Had guys say they use 7f in the pan and is finer than ....... never seen it for sale or heard of it other than in passing conversations. Ole tale or available back in the day? Thanks guys. So not mean to steal the thread if i am.

I've never seen 7F. It would be like dust.

We used to make priming powder sometimes in the early 1970's because we couldn't find any 4F. Used wooden spice grinding bowl and one fellow used a couple wooden spoons. Quit doing it because 4F became available as did most 3F , and 2F.......