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Removing roman nose from comb

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dogfood

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Hello all,
I'm making some additional to my collection and while I like most everything about these two new ones, they both have pronounced "Roman nose" combs on their butt stocks. In short they don't work for me and they need to go.
Is it any more complcated than going from rasp to file to sandpaper?
I hope that work like this and upgrading parts on a T/C Hawken I have been doing will get me at least some modicum of experience for when I take the plunge and do a real build.
Those aw the long term plans, but right now, I just need to rid myself of the "Roman noses".
Many thanks for your input,
-dgfd
 
Hello all,
I'm making some additional to my collection and while I like most everything about these two new ones, they both have pronounced "Roman nose" combs on their butt stocks. In short they don't work for me and they need to go.
Is it any more complcated than going from rasp to file to sandpaper?
I hope that work like this and upgrading parts on a T/C Hawken I have been doing will get me at least some modicum of experience for when I take the plunge and do a real build.
Those aw the long term plans, but right now, I just need to rid myself of the "Roman noses".
Many thanks for your input,
-dgfd
For removing large amounts of wood, I like a block plane or a spokeshave. Rasp is too slow, but will work. You are going to run into another issue I am guessing without actually seeing your butt plate. A Roman nose butt plate is installed in relation to the Roman nose. If you take the nose down, then the butt plate is going to make your modify look like a cob job. JMO
 
Some pics would help a lot to determine if eliminating the Roman nose combline is possible ....many Bplates for this type of stock have the Bplate "tang" or return pointing upwards more so than the "tangs" on a straight combline. Possibly the tangs on these rifles are thick enough to accommodate a straight combline. Irregardless, the Bplates are involved in the change......Fred
 
W/O photo Not sure what your referring to. A "Roman Nose" on a stock usually indicates a stock shape like a Pa. Lehigh Valley style. Also , on some rifles, the forearm end below the muzzle can have a Roman Nose style to it..........
 
Thanks for your input, fellas.
One of them is a Pedersoli Kentucky- the professionally done photo
The other is an Investment Arms Michigan - the home done photo
 

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There are at least two ways to make the stock fit you. One is chop it off at the wrist and carve a whole new buttstock. The other is to grind off about an inch of wood from the top and then glob 2 or three tubes of 'Quikwood' on there and shape it like you want it before it dries. The RIGHT thing to do is offer both guns for sale or trade here on the forum in front of 17,000 muzzleloading enthusiasts and get or buy what you want and not ruin two beautiful guns that somebody would give a dear and precious part of their anatomy for. It's tempting to just go at it without knowledge or skill and give it billy hell, and that's what your finished product will look like; Billy Hell. When you screw up the stocks you can always chop off the barrels and cut the stocks about 3 inches past the nose comb and have a hell of a Canoe or Blanket gun and have a platform for all types of beautiful Native American artistic media. Call it a growth experience. You can tell people you accidently bent the barrel, shattered the stock, and barely survived the fall down that mountain while practicing wrestling techniques on a -Disturbed- grizzly bear. Then you can send it off On Approval to somebody on a trade and never have to see it again. You could donate the other one to the Irish Republican Army for a backup gun. Or just trade both guns for quality parts and start your build.
 
It’s near impossible to do much to change the buttstock shape with what you have. I’ve never heard of chopping off a buttstock and glueing another one on or of this Quickwood stuff. Use and enjoy the guns as they are, or restock the parts to learn how to build a gun. I’m sure you could find a pre-carved stock with a barrel inlet that fits, but no lock inlet, if you wanted to go in that direction. That would set you back at least $200 though I haven’t priced anything like that in many decades.
 
Thanks for your input, fellas.
One of them is a Pedersoli Kentucky- the professionally done photo
The other is an Investment Arms Michigan - the home done photo
I don't think there's much you can do. The drop starts further back than straight combs. Change it and you will have an oddly short comb and long wrist.
 
Imagine taking the return of the buttplate that is currently in line with the roman nose and dropping it so it points in straight line toward the wrist, you won't have much stock left and little or no comb. You would also have to inlet the buttplate in at least an inch and loose that much length of pull.

Sell that roman nose gun and buy one you like.
 
Leave alone and find a way to shoot them as is. Or sell. If you are shooting these firearms from the bench, that maybe your trouble. Many folks find that roman nose buttstocks slap the cheek quite a bit from a bench. These types of buttstocks were meant for shooting off the bicep, not the shoulder.
 
Leave alone and find a way to shoot them as is. Or sell. If you are shooting these firearms from the bench, that maybe your trouble. Many folks find that roman nose buttstocks slap the cheek quite a bit from a bench. These types of buttstocks were meant for shooting off the bicep, not the shoulder.
Ha, ha, mine slaps my cheek bone even if I let someone else shoot it. 😂 Love the look, but does not fit my style of shooting.
 
You can tell people you accidently bent the barrel, shattered the stock, and barely survived the fall down that mountain while practicing wrestling techniques on a -Disturbed- grizzly bear.

Fixing mistakes is nowhere near as important as the stories you build around them. You are wise beyond your years.
 
Guy brought a very nice Roman nose Lehigh Co. to me and ask if I could do something to keep it from smacking his face when shooting it. We measured his LOP , it was proper. I took him to the range ,and he showed me his shooting position. He was crawling up on the stock just like the Marine shooting instructors trained him. Once he started mounting the off hand rifle , and just laying his face onto the stock to see the sights , problem solved. .............oldwood
 
Guy brought a very nice Roman nose Lehigh Co. to me and ask if I could do something to keep it from smacking his face when shooting it. We measured his LOP , it was proper. I took him to the range ,and he showed me his shooting position. He was crawling up on the stock just like the Marine shooting instructors trained him. Once he started mounting the off hand rifle , and just laying his face onto the stock to see the sights , problem solved. .............oldwood


EXACTLY!
 
OP here,
This main issue I have with them is that I can't find a cheek-stoxk weld that gets my eyes on the sight. As mentioned upthread, I was long trained to get up in as close to the rifle as possible.
I can get a decent sight picture with my head far back on the buttstock, but it's not something that comes naturally to me.
I'm happy to get used to the new body configuration of making a cleaner plane from weights to butt plate.,
Thanks for all the information and suggestions, fellas!
-dgfd
 
You will not hurt it. The but stocks on those look pretty unfortunate looking. You'd think the Italians would at least look at an original gun.

Don't worry too much the exact tools, a wood rasp, an a gouge should do it. The Contour in the comb is different than modern guns. IT will be like my picture, more or less. The patch box will limit how much you can take off. The bottom of the wrist contour is flat despite my drawing. The comb is flat sided extending back toward the but plate as a flat surface horizontally too, not rounded. The exact cross section depends on the "school" of the original. It does not matter here. Just more or less what I have shown will be an improvement.

new.jpg
 

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