This screw won't budge!

Have been trying unsuccessfully to remove a trigger guard screw from a 1993 Uberti made 1858 Remington revolver for the last 24hrs and am now solicitng suggestions. Have treated it with WD40 penetrating oil for 24hrs, also gave it a tap to try and loosen whatever is holding it there but so far, nada. This screw won't budge. Any tricks of the trade to share ?

I’ve heated screws in metal with my strip gun to good effect
Glenn

Soldering iron tip held on head of screw works well.

I've found WD40 to be a poor oil for penetration. I would suggest a true penetrating oil like KROIL. Some really like PB Blaster and everyone will have a favorite. KROIL or Sil KROIL is mine. 100 + years old and proven in power plants, incinerators, paper mills and other such nasty environments that I've frequented over the years.

Thanks O.R.

I would think there is a build up of old oils and who knows what that has dried, I would soak it in kerosene for a couple of days make sure it is completely covered. Then use a good hollow ground screw driver, if no luck give the handle of the screw driver a few light taps and try again. Has always worked for me.

Any thoughts on Liquid Wrench ?

Kroil. Or 50/50 acetone and ATF.

Liquid Wrench. Its a P-Oil. I would give it a several day soak and if that doesn't work follow the advice of the folks above. Its all good advice Thanks O.R.

MN284 said:

Kroil. Or 50/50 acetone and ATF.

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My choice also. I saw a comparison of penetrating oils and the 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF (Dexron type 1) and Kroil came out on top #1 & #2 respectavily.
One trick I have had success with after soaking with either one is to Tighten the screw slightly and then loosen it. Once it has broken loose, start to remove it and every once in a while a drop of Kroli and tighten it then continue removing it.

Another trick is to put a good fitting hollow ground screw driver bit in the chuck of a drill press. Clamp the frame in a press vise and lower the bit into the screw and use your hand to turn the chuck. That way the screw driver bit has no chance to jump out of the slot and mess up the head of the screw.

jonathan butcher said:

Any thoughts on Liquid Wrench ?

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liquid wrench beats everything in penetrating including Kroil,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Drop of Kroil or LW every three days or so for two weeks, concentrate on other things meanwhile. Come back with a 1/4 in impact firmly placed in the slot and slack taken out and a light tap will bring it right out.

These things do the job. Top one is a slide hammer, bottom one used with a 3 pound hammer. Both are 3/8" drive to fit the hex bit holders that are 3/8" drive.

The slide hammer, repetitive tapping with the slide while maintaining good torque on the knurled grip usually does the job. The impact driver, similar but tapping with the 3 pound hammer.

Sometimes I use the 250 watt Weller soldering iron. Heat the screw head really hot. Maybe the little Presto Lite torch.

If all fails, I set the gun up in the vertical milling machine, mill the screw head off, remove the attached parts, then vise grips on the screw shank. Super dire straits I drill out the screw shank with a tap drill and re-tap to clean out the threads.

When going back together with a new screw, I tap the screw hole with a bottom tap. Then a touch of anti seize on the screw threads. Might want to remove the screw again in the future.

1/4” impact driver bit ?

Hillbilly Delux said:

Drop of Kroil or LW every three days or so for two weeks, concentrate on other things meanwhile. Come back with a 1/4 in impact firmly placed in the slot and slack taken out and a light tap will bring it right out.

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bpd303 said:

My choice also. I saw a comparison of penetrating oils and the 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF (Dexron type 1) and Kroil came out on top #1 & #2 respectavily.
One trick I have had success with after soaking with either one is to Tighten the screw slightly and then loosen it. Once it has broken loose, start to remove it and every once in a while a drop of Kroli and tighten it then continue removing it.

Another trick is to put a good fitting hollow ground screw driver bit in the chuck of a drill press. Clamp the frame in a press vise and lower the bit into the screw and use your hand to turn the chuck. That way the screw driver bit has no chance to jump out of the slot and mess up the head of the screw.

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Have to be careful as you can turn the head completely off the screw. In which case you drill it out.

John R's methods will work if one is blessed to have a fully equipped machine shop. Although too much heat will melt the brass trigger guard. The main thing is to be patient and not rush things. I have removed stuck screws in old original guns that I have restored using the drill press, but of course too much torque will snap just about any screw. I once wrung off a couple of seized wheel lug bolts on my '53 Willy's M38A1 jeep using a 4 way lug wrench by not being patient.

bpd303 said:

John R's methods will work if one is blessed to have a fully equipped machine shop. Although too much heat will melt the brass trigger guard. The main thing is to be patient and not rush things. I have removed stuck screws in old original guns that I have restored using the drill press, but of course too much torque will snap just about any screw. I once wrung off a couple of seized wheel lug bolts on my '53 Willy's M38A1 jeep using a 4 way lug wrench by not being patient.

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Yep, patience is the word when working with stuck screws. Likely there is a corrosion issue between the brass and the steel screw.

Beauty of the impact removers especially if you pre soak with kroil, is the vibration will aid the kroil to penetrate.

Another trick is to soak with kroil, then use a good fitting screwdriver with a tough handle, stick the driver into the screw slot, then some tapping with a hammer. Let it soak for a few, then do it again. Over a few days this may release the screw.

I learned screw removal working on salt water outboard motors. The world's worst for seized and corroded stuck screws. Next in line are boat trailer lug nuts. I rotate the tires on my trailer each spring, the lug nuts go back on with anti seize.

jonathan butcher said:

Have been trying unsuccessfully to remove a trigger guard screw from a 1993 Uberti made 1858 Remington revolver for the last 24hrs and am now solicitng suggestions. Have treated it with WD40 penetrating oil for 24hrs, also gave it a tap to try and loosen whatever is holding it there but so far, nada. This screw won't budge. Any tricks of the trade to share ?

Click to expand...

If you can get a good purchase on the slot in the screw with your bit, use a drill motor with an impact feature and the screw should come right out.

All pretty good suggestions, I don't own a torch but a woodburning kit or a soldering iron is a good heat source. And I've found the opposite of heat sometimes work as well. Put it in the freezer for a couple of days, but put it in some sort of plastic bag. Carol gets a little upset when gun oil touches the inside of "her freezer".

I used to have a complete set of Chapman screwdriver bits. They came with a screwdriver handle, and about a 3 inch extension which fit into the handle, and a ratchet which slides over the extension. I would put the proper bit into the extension, and put the ratchet on the extension. I would then lean over the handle and press on it with my hand and chest and work the ratchet. it would either loosen the screw or strip the slot.

A squirt of Kroil every 4-6 hours and patience. It will come loose.

Bud in PA, the ratchet tip is one I've never heard, but I hope I don't forget it. I retooled my Chapman bit supply earlier this year. So glad they still sell parts and replacements.