My matchlock build -If anyone wants a look. Not yet completed

I started a Matchlock build.
Can't really say it is my first build (assembled a CVA in the 80's) and have done a bit of gunsmithing over the years.but I can say first in 30 years.
The stock was from a "Roger Vardy" mannlicher blank.

1. The butt has 3 facets but you kinda can't see them. It is a fairly curly bit of English walnut. Cost USD180
2. Barrel is a modified 20g Iver Johnson. Cost USD45
3. I made the lock, pan and covers. Cost <USD15
4. The Trigger lever is just a long bolt. USD3
5. My TOTW order seems to have gotten marooned with COVID19 so now kinda stalled till I get the breechplug and other bits.

Borrowed a bandsaw to rough cut the stock after spending 2 hours with a hacksaw just setting the forend down 1/2" to start inletting the barrel.
Managed to saw the cock about 1/2 way down evenly with a good sharp hacksaw blade. Proud of that.
Spent a considerable amount on more hand tools. Have not kept track of that.
Can recommend the Shinto Rasp for large curves and flats.

Barrel channel was basically cut with a 3/4 flat chisel and smoothed and scraped with a 3/8 mold plane (eBay AUD25) and whatever else I could find that worked.
Thanks to whoever said that burning masking tape makes heaps of soot. It certainly does!
I have a 4' x 2' work bench made from and old table which I pull into the garage door for light and my power tools are limited to a dremel and a drill (so far).
I have used a variety of plans and photos so the end result is not really any particular gun but I think has that Matchlock quality.
Please excuse the mess of cast bullets on the table. The shiny ones are for this project.

Must Thank Bill Raby for his build videos. As well as the volume of information and advice from this forum.
I think this shows that you really cannot blame your tools.

Has anyone had experience using Aqua Fortis on Walnut?
What do rear sights look like on a Matchlock?

Nice work Lawrence, Keep us updated on your progress.

"What do rear sights look like on a Matchlock?"

.... there's a rear sight??????????????

I too am gathering bits for a similar build, so please do keep posting, will be interesting to see how you go about this build. Looks like a ver nice start !

Flint62Smoothie said:

there's a rear sight??????????????

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It seems that in Europe a tube sight was used on some as well as various notches but I am struggling to get details.
In Japan they had a myriad of different sights.
I am waiting on the breech plug and am hoping that I have a little metal to put a groove in as a crude notch.
Failing that the barrel retains the shotgun bead and does not seem to have any discernible choke. But I am going to check this again as it is a bit weird.

You do NOT want to use AF or FN on Walnut. It will turn it black.

Col. Batguano said:

You do NOT want to use AF or FN on Walnut. It will turn it black.

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THANK YOU!!!!

LawrenceA said:

It seems that in Europe a tube sight was used on some as well as various notches but I am struggling to get details.

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I was having fun with you ... sorry . You are quite correct, some Euro matchlocks do wear tube sights, while those from the Middle East have a peep or open rear sight.

I've always liked the fish tail matchlocks. I started playing with the idea of building one. Got to where I had built the parts for the lock, but never went any further than that. Still have the parts in a box someplace in my work room. If the interest strikes me again, I may have to dig them out and move forward. I've got to finish my .32 calibwr Flintlock, then my son wants me to build him a .50 cal longrifle, so it may be some time before I get around to the matchlock again.

Progress report pics added.
I am having trouble figuring out how to plan the ramrod hole as there is almost no room for the front lock bolt.
However I have noted that I could cut off the front of the lock containing that hole and redrill and thread up next to the spring recess.
Also pretty well done the pan and its flashgaurd and cover. I made this a bit small. Don't get me wrong it is plenty big enough to do the job but the distance between the pivot and pan means the cover has to travel in a much larger arch to clear.
Took a heap more wood out of the top of the grip so it does not feel like my thumb will crack on recoil.
Found a spoke shave is good for working on facets that have a curve (like bent ribbon).
Made the pan recess be drilling then grinding. Worked well and not that time consuming.
The geometry between the pan and its parts was a little harder to accomplish. the bolt has an unthreaded portion.
I judiciously filed the shield to be tight as the bolt bottomed out yet provided clearance for the pan cover to pivot.
I am unsure if this will hold up but if it doesnt then I can solder a small piece onto the shield that can sit between the pan and the stock.
If I did it again I would be tempted to move it forward and have the base fit in a groove cut in the pan block.
The pan block was hand fitted to the curve of the barrel.

You cant see it but it has 1/4" cast and I am surprised how well it shoulders. It is going to be damn light and very short!

Still waiting USPS for the TOTW order. The tracking changed to delivered in March. I put in a missing mail report and suddenly all the old tracking information disappeared and it is in Chicago still!

Thank you for your interest

i want to look and keep looking. keep up the pictures. thanks

Dear Lawrence . Your stocking looks good. May I suggest a flash shield behind the pan ?. Worth its weight in gold. Stops your eyeballs getting seared , Ide also recommend a bigger pan area size of a shilling or in your case a Dime even a quarter better yet, If not too deep . I grind up priming to snuff like dust the better to go off , Courser grains tend to not kindle as well .even stub out , or get you that hanging onto your aim till you figure it is out. Then pound to a penny as soon as you let it go it will go off . Which alarms non matchlock shooters but becomes a norm to seasoned shooters of these guns . This happened to me one shoot at Bisley it flew behind me I picked it up like that was usual and proceaded to reload .Someone remarked ide'' Shot a rabbit'' but meaning it was in the grass not the target . All part of the fun Your doing great.
Regards Rudyard

It has one mate.
It is that thing covered in masking tape taking up most of the bolt that holds the pan cover on. Not really standing out but there.
Have I made the pan block too small?
It is 1" wide and the pan is 1/2" wide so I can open it up another 1/4" I guess but can't elongate it much.
Being an Ozzie not real sure how big US coins are but can find out.
I had not realised they needed such fine prime. I had read somewhere that they were quicker than a flinter.
I have never seen let alone held a matchlock so this is an adventure for me.
I have opened up the pan as per below. Should I ditch it and start again?

Thoughts?

I have also provided a random Camel picture. Saw them on the way to Mount Isa

Dear Lawrence My error I was thinking you where in the US. you don't remember shillings? bobs ? They mess about with coins so much maybe a dollar be about a shilling in size & buys less !. . Ive made numbers of matchlocks mostly' Mary Rose' type snap matchlocks for competition shooters Ime in NZ . The Bisley incident was with a 12 bore common lock M lock . . I found the grinding it fine reduces that tendancy to not kindle the courser prime . though Indian matchlocks have smaller pans I believe its better they are larger We take aim twice once to ensure the coal is going to hit the prime And one ere we let peg at the target .Your on the right track,good on yer .
Cheers Rudyard
Like the Camels, try the little pan can allways change it.but originals like yours where generally bigger R

OK finally got the parcel I was waiting for.
Having the ramrod I could try and plot the position of the ramrod channel, lock and so forth.
I am having trouble figuring out where to set the lock and ramrod channel so as not to interfere with each other.
I decided to have a 1/4" web at the muzzle thinning to 1/8" at the breach.
Having plotted this I got a couple of pieces of aluminum to act as guides for the router.
It seemed to work well but I cannot really know until I drill.
Sent the barrel off to have it licenced through breeching.
Having been inspired by Rudyard I am now seeking bone or antler suitable to make the ramrod thimble. I think a tine should do ???

Strangely even though the web thins the ramrod channel slopes down.

Love your feedback on this. What have you done in a similar situation and why?

I will need to either slope the upper forend to maintain 1/2 the ramrod being visible or keep the upper forend parallel and have the amount of ramrod vary.
Or recut the ramrod channel but not sure I can as there may be too much taper in the barrel and not enough web.

The drilled rod hole on a Matchlock is seldom long starting just a bit ahead from the lock so if you've lined up the rod grouve ( allways aim a hair away from the lock but you cant really go to for wrong ) so its a doddle your rod likely has a common bit brazed on but if you grind it till the point protrudes this answers as a guide .You seem to be geared up tool wise If you don't have the right rod . If you heat & smith out a screw driver like shape on a suitable rod. You can grind a simple bit that will be slower but itle get you there . You don't really need to use stout side nails simple wood screws will do there isn't much stress . Re the rod pipes many just go with one iron one & no tail pipe but up to you they All varied . If military ones vary less & bone ect wouldn't suit
Cheers Rudyard

Rudyard said:

You seem to be geared up tool wise.

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You can see half my files on the workbench. Yep I have 4 excluding needle files and rifflers.
Tools are one thing I don't have many of. Well not here anyway. The router is a long story but yes I do have one.
Thanks for the guidance on the ramrod drill. I have asked the closest gunsmith (500 miles) away to make me one so waiting for that and the barrel to come back.
I have iron pipes but the bone is just so damn cool!

Using wood screws would make the whole build OH SO much easier. Same for the tang nail?

Sorry Rudyard I really don't know if mine is styled sporting or military. I just made it to what I think was a good pattern/look. I really like the bone on yours.

So, So much to learn

I reckon your a natural anyway. One thing often followed to day is neat clean lines . But what is noticeable on original work are the scraper and other tool marks much as you find on contempory furniture & look at the carved work in old Norman churches . all very quaint . Not that you will find many up in Normanton ( local Boomerangs might be closer examples !) military Muskets & Calivers( a lighter version) run four foot barrels & 10 bore more or less any other are ' Birding pieces ' or could be lumped as' Smaller shoots ' What ever grabs you they where all one off diverse affairs go with the stag & bone .

The post where I detailed carveing the stag disappeared " Oops sorry too long' nonsence . So ile add it now I found if I carved at night with just a focussing lamp it sort of concentrated my work. Just clean it up to smooth then draw with pencil the repeated leaves ect and use a small chisel to cut into the surface basic scrimshaw and if you look at old pieces they are seldom remotely perfect. Pictures and a study of old guns are your best document .
Cheers Rudyard

Well almost 6 months later I have gotten the barrel back.
I have now fully inlet the tang and frizzen.

I have also preshaped and drilled the ramrod channel and hole.
I had a drill made but the drill is wider than the length of rod. I tried to aim the drill down as I left a fair belly in the stock. Good thing I did.
It did not quite go to plan as it busted in under the barrel but will still work with a bit of judicious scraping. Or I might just dig in with chisels.