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Ramrod misdrilled due to off center r/r channel. Also R/R drill led off high to bottom of barrel.

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This stock was a possibly 40+ year old pre-shaped piece from a stock shaper north of Williamsport , Pa.. Anyway...Not sure how many hands it passed through until me. Also , The wood had a bad fracture running through mid-forearm to about lower end of r/r hole . The r/r hole ran out touching the bottom barrel flat. to one side. The rifle is a flint lock gun and needed a front lock bolt. The end of the misdrilled r/r hole blocked the position of the bolt. The only reason to bother w/ fixing the stock is it a beyond exceptional PPPP+ grade of hard curly maple.
The fix...1. Enlarged the existing 3/8" r/r channel 1/16 " toward the lower center line of the stock.
2. Install the entry r/r pipe on center of stock center line. 3. Next...major surgery...Flip the stock over , come 3" down the misdrilled channel from the entry pipe and remove the wood in the forestock to bottom of miscreant r/r channel. Using a 3/8" r/r hole drill inserted through the 3/8" entry pipe as a guide , drill out the errant 3" 's of wood behind the entry pipe into the void we created in the forearm. 4. This is where the purists in the group swoon....From the local hobby store , lay a correctly cut to length piece of 3/8 " thin walled brass tubing in position where the r/r hole should have been drilled. 5. Epoxie glass bed the barrel back in it's channel using 5 min. epoxie. Instead of messy and expensive glass bedding fluid , since this is a m/l rifle barrel , cut and tape a piece of plastic grocery store bag to allow the barrel to be easily removed from barrel channel. Once the epoxie has set , and the barrel is easily removed , the grocery bag release agent can be pulled from the channel.
The above mentioned break in the forestock also was corrected as an additional benefit w/ Misdrilled ramrod hole fixed. A full 3/8 " r/r may be inserted , and front lock screw used.
The repairs are invisible to the casual viewer of the rifle , however I won't sell a rifle w/ an unorthodox repair like this one. I'll find a need for a good .50 cal. deer rifle somewhere. oldwood
 
This stock was a possibly 40+ year old pre-shaped piece from a stock shaper north of Williamsport , Pa.. Anyway...Not sure how many hands it passed through until me. Also , The wood had a bad fracture running through mid-forearm to about lower end of r/r hole . The r/r hole ran out touching the bottom barrel flat. to one side. The rifle is a flint lock gun and needed a front lock bolt. The end of the misdrilled r/r hole blocked the position of the bolt. The only reason to bother w/ fixing the stock is it a beyond exceptional PPPP+ grade of hard curly maple.
The fix...1. Enlarged the existing 3/8" r/r channel 1/16 " toward the lower center line of the stock.
2. Install the entry r/r pipe on center of stock center line. 3. Next...major surgery...Flip the stock over , come 3" down the misdrilled channel from the entry pipe and remove the wood in the forestock to bottom of miscreant r/r channel. Using a 3/8" r/r hole drill inserted through the 3/8" entry pipe as a guide , drill out the errant 3" 's of wood behind the entry pipe into the void we created in the forearm. 4. This is where the purists in the group swoon....From the local hobby store , lay a correctly cut to length piece of 3/8 " thin walled brass tubing in position where the r/r hole should have been drilled. 5. Epoxie glass bed the barrel back in it's channel using 5 min. epoxie. Instead of messy and expensive glass bedding fluid , since this is a m/l rifle barrel , cut and tape a piece of plastic grocery store bag to allow the barrel to be easily removed from barrel channel. Once the epoxie has set , and the barrel is easily removed , the grocery bag release agent can be pulled from the channel.
The above mentioned break in the forestock also was corrected as an additional benefit w/ Misdrilled ramrod hole fixed. A full 3/8 " r/r may be inserted , and front lock screw used.
The repairs are invisible to the casual viewer of the rifle , however I won't sell a rifle w/ an unorthodox repair like this one. I'll find a need for a good .50 cal. deer rifle somewhere. oldwood
Welcome to the campfire. Where ya hail from?
 
Ingenious fix Oldwood ' What the eye don't see the heart don't grieve' .Iv'e had to get round similar problems you aim to go a hair away from the lockside but getting the hole bang right is a trick . I have found making a round length of steel rod which you then bray on the end till there is a sharpe edge when apon by bending the rod for a grip , plus such slight bends as should allow you to scrape the lower or upper wood you can in effect' bend' the holes direction . .Then since the use of two side nails isn't used on late styles you could just go with the central Side nail and create a dummy that dosn't go through at the fore side plate position . Who's to know ? .& you could fit it with a hook like stud in the wood & a corresponding notched hook like fitting at the end of the lock plate as was commonly done .(Little option on doubles they had too .) . The getting round snaggy stuff is a big part of gunmaking I always think . Car mechanics just order up a part but we have to use our noodles !.
Regards Rudyard
 
Ingenious fix Oldwood ' What the eye don't see the heart don't grieve' .Iv'e had to get round similar problems you aim to go a hair away from the lockside but getting the hole bang right is a trick . I have found making a round length of steel rod which you then bray on the end till there is a sharpe edge when apon by bending the rod for a grip , plus such slight bends as should allow you to scrape the lower or upper wood you can in effect' bend' the holes direction . .Then since the use of two side nails isn't used on late styles you could just go with the central Side nail and create a dummy that dosn't go through at the fore side plate position . Who's to know ? .& you could fit it with a hook like stud in the wood & a corresponding notched hook like fitting at the end of the lock plate as was commonly done .(Little option on doubles they had too .) . The getting round snaggy stuff is a big part of gunmaking I always think . Car mechanics just order up a part but we have to use our noodles !.
Regards Rudyard
Rudyard , Bunch of decades ago I figured out that to be a passable m/l wood mechanic , ya have ta learn ta fix yer mistakes...Catch 'em early...fix 'em good. I been building since 72 and my m/l building disease keeps me going. regards..oldwood
 
Dear Lawrence A' side nail' is the correct term (for gun makers) . Moderns call it a bolt. the one that holds the barrel tang is a' Tang nail', most screws are called' pins ' What many call wedges( that don't wedge) and are called' Keys' Though they don't turn either what they go through are called' loops'. Old terms but still used in the gun trade . Barrels go down as' Tubes 'And what I call ramrod' pipes' many call them thimbles which they don't even resemble .& all parts other than stock & barrel go under the term 'Mounts' but then I grew up on the East bank of the pond what such are altered too like much else can get mangled a bit on your West side of the same pond .
Regards Rudyard
 
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Any chance of a few piccies?
Gun and repair?
Hey Lawrence......Sorry I have no cell phone for pics. I live where there is no cell service. What a blessing...I worked in a seven day a week emergency service w/ stress levels very high. After 41 years on the road in America and some in Europe , I retired w/ a bad case of PTSD and other health problems. Currently I'm enjoying building m/l rifles and trade muskets. My goal is 200 guns before i die. I'm beyond thankful to all the folks who encouraged me at gunbuilding. I'm currently trying to pass it on before i pass on. I have two guys trying to learn what I can show them. What else can an old guy ask for? Best wishes...Charlie..aka..oldwood
 
200 guns before you die? Wow (I hope you got a contract)! My advice then is to take your time with each build.
 
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