I use the small priming flask with the free-flow nozzle rather than the calibrated dispensers. It looks like this:
Point the nozzle at a downward angle, press the button with your thumb, and the powder flows until you release the button. I have never measured the amount, but just try to fill the pan about a third to half full. Some pans are bigger than others and the priming charge needs to "fit" the pan. The valve of this flask has a positive cutoff and I feel I have very good control of the flow. I have not tried the calibrated dispenser type priming flasks, so honestly can't comment on how they function.
I use 4F (FFFFg) for priming. I have used 3F and 2F for priming, and they work, although I think the 4F may be faster. However, if I run out of FFFFg, I know I can fall back on 3F for priming. I have not tried either of these coarser powders through this priming flask. I believe either would probably work, after a fashion, but I do know the 4F flows very well through this flask head. I have not measured the ID of the spout, but can do that if anybody needs that tidbit of information.
A lot of guys swear by priming directly from the horn, using the same powder as the main charge. My problem with that is not the granulation, but limited control. I am a klutz. When I prime with the "big horn," I tend to get too little or too much in the pan, but what's worse, powder granules get on top of the lock bolster and all over the rim of the pan, and even down on the feather spring below the frizzen's pivot. I can sweep most of the excess powder off with my pan brush but this adds a step to the loading procedure and I inevitably miss a few grains. Depending on how much powder is scattered about the lock, your "flash in the pan" can become a Vesuvian eruption. Not necessarily unsafe, but very impressive. Powder grains on the rim of the pan also prevent the pan from closing completely, which may be a concern in very humid weather. The small diameter nozzle and thumb button on the priming flask allows very good control of how much powder I dispense and it enables me to keep all of it in the pan.
I have used "blank" paper cartridges stoked with 2F for musket drill. The loading procedure involves tearing off the end of the cartridge and priming and then closing the pan
before charging the musket. You have a leather hammerstall on the frizzen and the cock is at half cock (which is the safety on a flintlock), so the procedure is safe. You can sort of pinch the end of the paper cartridge while dispensing the priming charge to control the flow of powder, which works very well. Even I can do it without losing and scattering powder all over the lock. This is much easier for me than priming from the big horn, and the 2F priming charge lights up quickly and reliably enough.
Regardless of which priming dispenser and technique you choose, I wish you the best of luck with it. Flintlocks are a whole different animal from percussion, but if you have a
good lock, you keep the flint sharp and properly adjusted and the frizzen clean, a flintlock is just as reliable and nearly as fast as percussion.
Best regards,
Notchy Bob
