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It seems that is the issue. I believe my countersink is angled too much toward the buttstock causing the barrel to move forward slightly. It did not move forward with a washer above countersink. And as pic shows it rubbed off the blue on the barrel end of hole View attachment 24680
Great, now you have something you can correct. Do you have drill press?
 
I have had the same problem on on most of my guns. I found if I countersink at exactly the same angle as I drilled the bolt hole while my gun is still in my drill press vise it prevents the problem.

This has always been a frustrating problem with my builds so I appreciate the tips given above. On my current build the barrel will move slightly if I overtighten the tang screw so I just snug it up.
 
I have a couple of original buttplates here at my shop and the hole in the buttplates for the screw shanks are enourmous when compare to the screw. I think the point was to avoid issues like this.

Cory Joe Stewart
 
The barrel moved when you drilled the tang hole. Probably all you need to do is open the hole in the stock a little. Use a round file or drill out the stock with the next size up drill bit. Easy fix

After looking at the second picture I had to rethink my answer. Looks like filing the hole through the stock a bit larger will solve the issue by allowing the back of the tang screw shaft some clearence. I don't think you will need to change the counter sink at all. I'd glass bed a bit under the tang at the barrel root to reinforce this wood starve area of recoil support.
 
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After looking at the second picture I had to rethink my answer. Looks like filing the hole through the stock a bit larger will solve the issue by allowing the back of the tang screw shaft some clearence. I don't think you will need to change the counter sink at all. I'd glass bed a bit under the tang at the barrel root to reinforce this wood starve area of recoil support.
Maybe. Before removing any wood or metal, put a .03” or so thick shim under the rear of the trigger plate. It should change the angle of the tang screw, possible enough to eliminate your issue, or at least give you a clue it you are going in the right direction. With the barrel clamped and all the way to the rear, tight against the stock, if the screw doesn’t go easily, then it may be time to remove some wood from the clearance hole in the stock. You really want to get the tapped hole in the trigger plate, the hole through the tang and the countersink in the tang all concentric with each other. At least in my opinion.

Another option would be to get the barrel, tang and screw lined up vertical and clamped in your drill press and rework the countersink. Can be done with patience. Even simpler if you were using a Bridgeport, but not an option in your case.

I would start with shimming the trigger plate. Should quickly give you some direction for the next step.
 
If it was mine, I would drill the hole thru the stock out so it was about 1/16" larger than it now is.
The additional 1/32" clearance on both sides of the screw will allow the barrel to be pushed rearward to eliminate the gap and IMO, the 1/16" larger hole will not create any real weaknesses in the stock.
It's much better to have the barrel seated against the stock than it is to have the tang screw absorb the recoil and transfer that jolt to the screw hole like it will if it is left like it is.

As for shims, the wood grain is running from butt to muzzle. The likelihood of making a 1/32" thick shim with the grain running in the same direction is very poor. If the grain on the shim was running perpendicular to the bore, it's end grain will be pointed up for all to see and it will never visually blend in with the adjacent wood.
 
If the grain on the shim was running perpendicular to the bore, it's end grain will be pointed up for all to see and it will never visually blend in with the adjacent wood.
Was suggesting a shim under the trigger plate. Would not be visible. Just tweaking the angle between the trigger plate and the tang to avoid re-drilling of tang screw hole and/or countersink. Pretty easy to try without removing any material from the barrel or stock. Is it possible this is a crazy idea? Yes sir. I just don’t think so.
 
Sorry if I misunderstood the idea.
In my mind I thought the suggestion was to just fill the gap between the breech end of the barrel and the stock.
 
Make a piloted countersink to correct that. Try to avoid non piloted countersinks in the future.
 
I've been gone for the week ice fishing in Devils Lake, ND, so haven't been able to work on this. I am going to try and shim the rear of the trigger plate and see if that changes the angle of the bolt enough.

Another option as I understand it is to line up in drill press with drill bit as it was originally drilled and see if I can correct the countersink without opening up the surface of the tank anymore. I do not have much to play with to say the least, but maybe the shoulders. I am going to try and find a piloted countersink bit as well...

I must have gotten lucky with my first rifle as I hand drilled the countersink in that one as well and had no issue. I wish I would have thought to just throw in the countersink bit into the drill press after drilling hole in stock/tang!!!
 
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