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Tomahawk Handle Finish

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I asked this question elsewhere and only got one answer...

I have two 'hawks. One has a Tru-Oil finished handle and the other has a stain/finish on it. With repeated use in the same session, the handles sometimes become slick and sometimes become sticky. It varies according to temperature, sweat and other conditions. This makes for an inconsistent release. Its not just me, others have described the same thing using either of these.

Is there a better finish, something I can add to the finish or a "wrap" that would be complimentary and make for a more consistent surface-to-hand experience?

The only answer I received elsewhere was to leave an unfinished wood handle. I could strip these bare but I am seeking other options before I do that.

Thanks
 
If I were making one to throw ( and I'm thinking to do that when the weather warms) I think I would add grooves for a consistent gripping surface. I made the one below for use as a trail/game axe and am now considering the addition of a leather thong wrap for a more secure grip.
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Over the years I never added a finish to the handles of the hawks I throw. The handles seemed to get beat up sooner or later anyway. The only finish was from dirty black powder covered hands. If I wanted something to protect the handle of a throwing hawk, I would probably just use boiled linseed oil.
 
I'm with KJ. My experience with hawk handles is the nicer they are the sooner they get destroyed. If at ronny someone will see yer nice handle and play 'handles' with it. Frustrating. Made me feel like playing 'skulls'. Never did. Plus, nice handles are just plain bad ju-ju. They break in normal use about 20X sooner than an unfinished one. I stopped fancing up my handles decades ago. Current one in my favorite hawk is about 20 years old.
 
I would try Watco Exterior Wood Finish. It is an oil finish that I use on the wood trim of my canoe. I also use it on the grip and shaft of my canoe paddles
 
Put it on a wood lathe if you have one and polish it while it is running.

The turning nature of a wood lathe helps get it in all of the grooves making it a smooth finish.

Also sand the old finish out this way.
 
Over 50 years ago, I went on the 50 mile canoe trip my Boy Scout Camp called "The Voyager" in the middle of a hot/humid Summer. It rained so hard the first day, we had to do it in three days vs the normal four days. So we had to be on the water paddling for 10 to 12 hours each the first two days. I mention this because I was barely in my teens and I learned something about wood handles and grips of our paddles that I think applies here. Our hands were not very tough at that age, though we didn't get blisters on our hands for the following reason.

They had us lightly sand the finish off the handles and where our other hand gripped the paddles. Then we rubbed those areas hard with rags to polish them down. Not sure if using antler or bone to hard rub the surface might have been good or better, as well. They also advised about keeping a rag to dry our hands if they got real sweaty. I don't remember doing that on the trip, though.

Seems to me that a hard rubbed wood surface with no finish like that would be best to use where you grip the wood in hot weather for throwing hawks. That would give you the most consistent grip without the finish oozing out in the hot sun? Though I was never a very good Hawk thrower, because I did not have a place to practice more often, it worked well for me. If your hands get sweaty, a rag would dry them off between throws.

Gus
 
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