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Dry Lube For Patch Lube?

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Hylander

32 Cal.
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So,
Has anyone ever tried a dry lube.
Say Hogdons One Shot case lube or Liquid Wrench dry lube?.
Thinking of giving the One Shot a try.
 
Go for it. I use spit patch for target shooting and TOTW mink oil for hunting. Tried all sorts of lubes years ago and these are the best for me. No wiping between shots either.

Dave:horseback::ghostly::cool:
 
While at first glance dry lube seems like a contradiction in terms, I use this combination:
  • Castor Oil, 3 oz
  • Murphy's Oil Soap, 1 oz
  • Witch Hazel, 4 oz
  • Isopropyl Alcohol (91%), 8 oz.*
  • Distilled Water, 16 oz.
*I use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol, and the mixture still does what I want it to.

I spray this lube onto patching strips three times, letting each application dry before spraying the next. When finished each strip will feel slightly oily to the touch. Then each strip is rolled up, and stored in old 35 mm film containers, of which I have many.
 
While at first glance dry lube seems like a contradiction in terms, I use this combination:
  • Castor Oil, 3 oz
  • Murphy's Oil Soap, 1 oz
  • Witch Hazel, 4 oz
  • Isopropyl Alcohol (91%), 8 oz.*
  • Distilled Water, 16 oz.
*I use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol, and the mixture still does what I want it to.

I spray this lube onto patching strips three times, letting each application dry before spraying the next. When finished each strip will feel slightly oily to the touch. Then each strip is rolled up, and stored in old 35 mm film containers, of which I have many.
Or you can store them in empty pill bottles. At most of us current ages, we probably have a lot of those laying around.
 
The dry patch lubricants do work. They seem to work best when you do a wipe of the bore with a damp patch between shots. The dry lubes often have a tendency to allow a crusty ring of fouling at the breech with some powders and low humidity. If a fouling crust ring does appear, then you need to wipe the crust ring away. You want to using a jag and patch that goes down the barrel over the fouling and bunches up to pull the fouling out. This may require two wipes.

As far as any specific dry lube mix, most will work just fine. Cruzatte's is a good one. The Dutch Schoultz version of 1 part Ballistol to 7 parts of water is also good. So are any of the Ballistol and wter from 1 and 5 to 1 and 8. You do need to look out for the crusty ring of fouling.

Every bit as important, though, is the match up of ball size to patch thickness/ weave tightness.

Ultimately accuracy is all about load development and practice.
 
I've been using Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil as the patch lube on all of my ball shooters from .32 to .58 caliber for the last ten years or so.

I stack up as many patches as I think I'll be using on the day of the shoot and squirt on the oil. Massage the stack to get the oil evenly distributed and worked into the cloth, then put the stack in a paper towel and squeeze the bundle to absorb any excess oil. The patches will feel almost dry and be pleasant to work with.

My accuracy with these patches at least equals, but generally exceeds any other lube I've tried - and I've tried a lot of different ones.
 
I've been using Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil for the last ten years or so. Works in every one of my guns from .32 to .58. Accuracy meets, and usually exceeds, any other lube I've tried (and I've tried a lot).

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I have used Hornadys One Shot as a patch lube off & on for several years now (5-6 yrs)

I pre cut my patches & place them in a cap tin, applying a few drops of the 1 shot too them.
Close the tin and let the liquid penetrate the patches.

They come out moist, not wet or damp so too speak.
Since 1 Shot is a cleaner it does very well keeping the bore swabbed with a tight fitting patch / ball combo.

It is also advertised as a Protectant , which I do not depend on .
I use Barricade for protection of my guns.
 
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I have stayed away from petroleum products for all of my years of shooting muzzleloaders, other than maybe wiping down the outside of the gun with a Rig Rag. I was told many years ago to not mix petroleum products with black powder as it causes increased fouling...and I've followed this advice. I shoot entire matches without having to wipe between shots...and done so successfully !
 
In the west dry humidity I recall shooting lots of shots between swabs. I don’t recall how many. When moved to the ozarks and air that’s mostly hot water my gun was much more likely to get tough loading.
I once thought my gun should compleat with an AR , well at least a Sharps.
I’ve moved away from that. The few seconds it takes to swab just ain’t worth avoiding. It’s easy and then you don’t have to worry about crud rings or stuck ball or broken rods.
So I can get a shot off in twenty five seconds, no ones impressed, least of all me. Two minutes maybe three just doesn’t cost me any time.
That’s ok it’s all fun.
 
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