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Percussion sharps caliber change ?

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a rancher who lives just a few miles from me has one like your gun. he hits targets that are not that big at 400 yards with it. try a mag spark nipple on it and develop a good load , it will become the gun you love and carry all the time. keep it clean and it will serve you well.
 
I have muzzleloading rifles and shotguns , but I also enjoy my sharps percussion rifles.
 

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Maybe I'm mistaken but the cartridges in the photos look like the metallic, center primed kind we don't talk about here.
 
Hm.
Living over here the -59/-63 is the only permit exempt version available to us so i opted to take a little different,more scenic,route.
Now. Mind you. I keep a basically complete workshop since my racing days why lathes,bridgeports,TIG welders and what not isn´t an issue.
Ditto for high end materials.
Anyways. Leakage. Yep. Check...

View attachment 5027

That thing there..wut? Well..

View attachment 5028

I made cartridges out of shrink sleeve in short. "end caps" out of curling paper glued to the shrink sleeve.
Have pulled this stunt for a French made Chassepot previously,where the sealed chamber of that rifle basically leaves the chamber clean after firing,while with the Sharps due to the breech leaking...well,not so much.
Idea works it´s just that you have to clean the chamber out by hand for each shot,removing the remaining shrink sleeve.
So. That idea hit the bin.

View attachment 5029

So. To hell with it. That there is 28ga shotshell brass. Trimmed that and in turn made a tool to crimp the entries of them.

View attachment 5030

These rifles carry a chamber insert. In some these inserts are floating,in others they´re not. In the case of this approx 30" barrel rifle..not. So barrel tossed into the lathe and a short while later..insert gone gone gone..to be replaced by that there in the pic. Insert is made out of SIS 2541 Swedish tool room steel. In short it´ll take ANYTHING you toss at it.

View attachment 5031

Right. New insert in place,and with the formed 28ga brass inserted. Note the small cutout high left,which is the "extractor point". To keep at least some with the original idea i just use a small screwdriver to yank the fired cartridges out of there.

View attachment 5032

Indeed the bullets used since is more or less all so called ringtails. Got this mold produced by LEE off of e-Bay,some enthusiast marketing the thing. Casts rather true to the original slugs alright.

View attachment 5033

So? What gives here? Turning an insert like this is simple enough and i´ve glued mine in place. Loctite´s cylindrical fastening. Works great! What can i say? Fitting is imperative though,and comes down to having your numbers in order. Leakage has been stopped dead in its tracks,and the original Conant seal (the floating piece of the breech block) still does service seeing that i use it as a percussion cap rifle still. Ie;the primer pockets of them 28ga shells are left open and thus the rifle is still legal,albeit sporting brass cartridges.
What this has brought is basically a very powerful 54-120 cartridge rifle,and one that´s rather accurate to boot.
To the point where i´ve fabbed an optics rail for it even,which can be equipped with whatever glass wanted really.
Main point being that the rifle´s accurate at distances my 54yr old eyes are not. So...

View attachment 5034

Here the tool to "crimp" the cartridges. Have started working on a "regular" set of loading dies to make the whole thing happen on my progressive eventually,but that there suffice for now at least.

View attachment 5035

Here fellow club member and friend,Stefan,putting the thing through its paces. Looks a bit awkward with that compact upon there but..whatever makes me see the target.
Now.
That brought forward a different issue,cause that there optics sufficed for let´s say 300 meters and the issue is that the rifle will make that and then some with ease. So..it being up the wall or not i´ve opted to,for now,hand it a tube that hands me 16x,which suffice at 600.

Down the road i´ll find me a 10x or 12x Unertl or Litschert to toss ontop of it.
Beautiful work there, I wonder, what kind of accuracy are you seeing? Thanks in advance...
 
No, it's not verboten.
As long as the cartridge uses a cap or primer that is not built into it, it is OK for showing and talking about on the forum, even if it has a metal case.

For instance, the Smith Carbine with its rubber or metal cartridge and musket cap is permitted but the Sharps Repeating rifle with its rim fire cartridge is not.
 
I just got back from the site. Now I remember why it’s difficult... that Breech block uses a floating plate and a floating sleeve in the chamber. I’m sure a clever smith could work around that but it sounds expensive to me.
Hahn's device from Hahn's machine works. He also relined my barrel from a 56 to a 54. He makes your block solid and adds a sliding barrel inset that uses an O ring for a spring. Works well. 1 to 1 1/2 inches at 100 yards with good loads.
 
WOW!! Glad I noticed this Thread. Maybe you guys more knowledgeable with this gun can help me out. I recently bought at auction a Pedersoli Berdan Sharps .54 Infantry Rifle in new condition. And I just received it back from Charlie Hahn with his conversion, a taller front sight, and a supply of his tubes. So my questions might be......
1 With this conversion, can I still shoot it with loose powder ? What is the maximum powder charge of FFG will the chamber allow with the bullet ?
2 Assuming loose powder or paper tubes, is there a ready made bullet offered that should work well ?
3 Pedersoli offers a brass case for their sharps. But there are two different stock numbers. How do you determine which one to order ? (I realize you have to order their mold blocks to cast bullets that will work with these cases. But I want to try these brass cases out anyway).

weitzfc: Where did you get your black rifle sling ? Seems to look right with this gun.

Thanks for any help. I'm just full of questions today.

Rick
 
You can still shoot loose powder. I don't know what the max ammount you can put in the chamber is but it's far more than you probably want to shoot. The chamber volume is determined by how far into the chamber you seat the bullet. I have a Shilo carbine and use a 1 3/8" tube from Charlie with 42 grains of 2f and an unsized bullet. If I size them the bullet will seat almost 1/4" deeper. The original Sharps was designed to be shot with less than a full chamber and the air space will not harm the gun.

At $6.79 per case and $110 for their mold I would pass on the brass cases and I've wondered how difficult they would be to extract after firing specially with a dirty chamber. Track of the Wolf has ready made Sharps bullets, about $.50 ea. but you need to slug your bore. Lodgewood also offers bullets.
 
You can still shoot loose powder. I don't know what the max ammount you can put in the chamber is but it's far more than you probably want to shoot. The chamber volume is determined by how far into the chamber you seat the bullet. I have a Shilo carbine and use a 1 3/8" tube from Charlie with 42 grains of 2f and an unsized bullet. If I size them the bullet will seat almost 1/4" deeper. The original Sharps was designed to be shot with less than a full chamber and the air space will not harm the gun.

At $6.79 per case and $110 for their mold I would pass on the brass cases and I've wondered how difficult they would be to extract after firing specially with a dirty chamber. Track of the Wolf has ready made Sharps bullets, about $.50 ea. but you need to slug your bore. Lodgewood also offers bullets.
Moose Moulds makes a Sharps Christmas tree ringtail mould .544 diameter which would be right for your Pedersoli. The ringtail base fits Charlie's tubes. Slugging your bore is a good idea. It should be .520 bore/.540 groove. Charlie suggested shooting the bullet unsized in 30:1 alloy, which is what I do. My Pedersoli Sporter is a tack driver.
 
I don't know why anyone would want to make the conversion.
They would end up with a 10+ pound rifle with a powder charge limited to whatever the small space behind the bullet would allow.
They couldn't load it with anything more or for that matter, less without ending up with a partially filled powder chamber under the bullet.

There is nothing it could do that a good muzzleloading rifle couldn't do as well or better.
+1!!
 
It is possible to change. My 1859 was a 56 caliber and had to be changed to a 54. I sent it to Charlie Hahn who had the barrel relined and then installed his device so that the rifle never leaks gas. I am not sure how small you can go, but the reline wasn't that expensive
 
Curious, why would it not be practical?
What am I missing?
Modifications to the bolt....

EDIT:
Sorry, I was thinking of a cartridge Sharps.
The ML Sharps used different barrel sizes across the flats. A smaller caliber barrel with a smaller distance across the flats will not fit your stock without re-bedding it for the smaller barrel. Also, since the barrel will sit lower in the stock, the hammer will not be hitting the nipple square, so you will have to modify the hammer.

I still think you would be better off selling the one you have and buying one in the caliber you want, or possibly trading for one in the caliber you want.

Edited to remove talk about cartridge guns. We don't talk about them on the forum.
Zonie
 
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EDIT:
Sorry, I was thinking of a cartridge Sharps.
The ML Sharps used different barrel sizes across the flats. A smaller caliber barrel with a smaller distance across the flats will not fit your stock without re-bedding it for the smaller barrel. Also, since the barrel will sit lower in the stock, the hammer will not be hitting the nipple square, so you will have to modify the hammer.

I was thinking of using a barrel liner instead of replacing the barrel. It was all a "hypothetical " I have since abandoned the idea and moved on.
 
You can change the caliber on a Shiloh percussion either by relining or rebarreling as the Shiloh Sharps doesn t have a floating chamber
 
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