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Uberti 1862 Police

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Ernie Groves

32 Cal
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I’ve recently purchased a Uberti 1862 Police made in 2003. It appears to be unfired.
When cocking the hammer briskly the cylinder over rotates on every chamber so that it is slightly off. Cocked slowly it functions properly on every chamber.
Wondering if anyone has experienced this...and what a probable fix is.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
 
Oh man, I want one. The locking bolt, that sits under the cylinder, would be the problem. Could be binding in it's slot, or on the bolt it pivots on, weak spring, undersized, etc.
 
You will need a set of screwdrivers that fit the screws of your revolver. They are far softer than they should be, but with a set of screwdrivers that fit the slots, the revolver can be disassembled. You need to be able to disassemble the revolver for cleaning anyway, so have the proper fitting screwdrivers at hand.

I had to replace the hand on my Navy Arms Reb revolver Made by Uberti. The replacement hand is oversize and will over rotate the cylinder. Your revolver is close to being correct. I believe that your hand is too long and a very small amount of metal will have to be stoned off the tip of the hand.
Colt hammer01.jpg
Your revolver may look slightly different but the parts are the same.

Do not change the angle of the top edge of the hand. Keep the top flat square to the hand.
Use a stone to only remove a few thousandths of an inch at a time.
Refit and try often.

You may be able to contact the seller for a return or repairs.
 
I thought about the hand also, but if it was too long, would the cylinder not over rotate, even when cocking slowly?
 
Oh man, I want one. The locking bolt, that sits under the cylinder, would be the problem. Could be binding in it's slot, or on the bolt it pivots on, weak spring, undersized, etc.
Thanks for the information. I was thinking it probably involves something to do with the bolt spring ...not rising quick enough when the chambers come around fast.
I also have a Uberti 1861 Navy and the 1862 suits my fancy better!
 
There may be some burrs on the bolt, slowing its rise just enough to allow the cylinder to over rotate. The cleaning up of the bolt and the other moving parts may be smoothed by light stoning of the rubbing surfaces.

Of course, you can just cock the hammer a bit slowly so the bolt can engage and hold the cylinder in proper place.
 
I just bought a Pocket Navy from them.

Say deal as the Police but with the old style Navy type barrel and loading lever. Got the one with the 6.5” bbl. Hoping it’ll make a nice lightweight kit gun for the field.
 
Those have got to be great grouse-getters. I think the 6-61/2" barrels are the greatest. Cut my 1860 Colt barrel to 6.5", made it a much nicer pistol, which is weird because I've always thought the 1860 was the best handling pistol ever. Just a tad nicer with a tad shorter barrel.
 
Those have got to be great grouse-getters. I think the 6-61/2" barrels are the greatest. Cut my 1860 Colt barrel to 6.5", made it a much nicer pistol, which is weird because I've always thought the 1860 was the best handling pistol ever. Just a tad nicer with a tad shorter barrel.
The 1862 with 6.5” barrel is indeed a little jewel!
 
Most likely the bolt is rising late. It should drop onto the cylinder prior to the notch not into the notch as most new Ubertis are timed. iThat and all of Ubertis pocket revolvers seem to be plagued with indifferent assembly.
 
I’ve recently purchased a Uberti 1862 Police made in 2003. It appears to be unfired.
When cocking the hammer briskly the cylinder over rotates on every chamber so that it is slightly off. Cocked slowly it functions properly on every chamber.
Wondering if anyone has experienced this...and what a probable fix is.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
Had the same problem with an1849 . Essentially same gun. Burr in the bolt slot.
 
If
I’ve recently purchased a Uberti 1862 Police made in 2003. It appears to be unfired.
When cocking the hammer briskly the cylinder over rotates on every chamber so that it is slightly off. Cocked slowly it functions properly on every chamber.
Wondering if anyone has experienced this...and what a probable fix is.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
If the hand is too long the cylinder will lock in before the hammer is at full cock.

If the cylinder and lock timing is off the cylinder can over rotate when hammer is at full cock. Could need to make adjustments to the bolt or the hammer lobe is shot. Spring too can be weak but it doesn't take much tension to help raise the bolt unless there is binding. Main issues with springs are if the leaf is too long there can be interference that causes the max flexibility not to be utilized.

Sounds from you explanation that the bolt could come up just a hair sooner. Another thing is how does the lobe on the bolt fit the socket on the cylinder? Measure the depth of the socket and add the gap from cylinder to frame next to the bolt lobe. Then measure how high the bolt lobe protrudes above the frame. If it comes up short push up on it from the spring. If it goes up more you may need spring if not you may need to take some material off the top of bolt arm. Do an ink impressions on the arm at the bottom inside area of the frame were the bolt comes up. If it's touching remove small amount at a time checking to make sure the bolt lobe protrusion is increasing. Once the measurement reaches the correct height or just a hair more. Then it should lock in with above typical cocking speed but still no guarantee it will every time. Nature of the beast.

Also remember these are not fast fan guns to start with. All mine work great and even so I can make them jump over if I try to work them faster than they are really designed for. If it works using a basic speed of cocking and the cylinder locks and you can't turn the cylinder out of lock then you probably don't have any issues. But it never hurts to check.

I've fanned a modern 357 SA and caused it to skip. I would say you can get it to happen on most revolvers if you tried to.
 
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You will need a set of screwdrivers that fit the screws of your revolver. They are far softer than they should be, but with a set of screwdrivers that fit the slots, the revolver can be disassembled. You need to be able to disassemble the revolver for cleaning anyway, so have the proper fitting screwdrivers at hand.

I had to replace the hand on my Navy Arms Reb revolver Made by Uberti. The replacement hand is oversize and will over rotate the cylinder. Your revolver is close to being correct. I believe that your hand is too long and a very small amount of metal will have to be stoned off the tip of the hand.View attachment 17701Your revolver may look slightly different but the parts are the same.

Do not change the angle of the top edge of the hand. Keep the top flat square to the hand.
Use a stone to only remove a few thousandths of an inch at a time.
Refit and try often.

You may be able to contact the seller for a return or repairs.
VTI sells a set of hardened screws for the Army and Navy revolvers. They may have them for the popo models. Other than that Grenadier covered the basics.
 
I’ve recently purchased a Uberti 1862 Police made in 2003. It appears to be unfired.
When cocking the hammer briskly the cylinder over rotates on every chamber so that it is slightly off. Cocked slowly it functions properly on every chamber.
Wondering if anyone has experienced this...and what a probable fix is.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
The first things I do with any new revolver is stone the bolt top edges bolt window, hand top edge and cylinder notches. This will usually clean up a lot of this type of problem.
Cylinder drag test is next. While cocking slowly on each chamber lightly rest your thumb on the cylinder to induce some drag while cycling the action. If the bolt will not fully engage the cylinder notch the hand is short, spring is to weak or the window is not cleared. If the hand is to long then the bolt will drop and you will feel the hand jamb against it at the end of the hammer stroke.
The top corners of the hand need to be slightly broken (sharp edge rounded) so as not to cut into the ratchet star. Usually the hand will be softer than the ratchet but don't count on it as it is supposed to wear before the star does which is the reason for the top edge to be radius a bit with a stone. Just take off any sharpness or burrs.
I have never needed to alter a hammer cam but on occasion the bolt leg will need adjusting to the hammer cam. The hammer cam is one area where a bit of grease , not just oil should be used. The base pin or arbor and the ratchet star are other places that need gun grease not just oil.
 
I’ve recently purchased a Uberti 1862 Police made in 2003. It appears to be unfired.
When cocking the hammer briskly the cylinder over rotates on every chamber so that it is slightly off. Cocked slowly it functions properly on every chamber.
Wondering if anyone has experienced this...and what a probable fix is.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
I had the same problems blemish on an 1848 pocket model. Burr in the bolt cut in he frame. No more problem.
 
I'm still getting an over rotation on my pocket police when I cock the hammer extremely rapidly. When that happens, usually the cylinder will back rotate and lock into place as the hammer falls, but not always. I've replaced the bolt spring (which helped a lot), and I've got the bolt sides smoothed up so they aren't binding, but I could still use a bit more spring pressure to bring the bolt up quicker. What's the most effective way to increase spring force?
 

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