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Avg # of shots per flint

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I have watched a number of this guy's hunting videos from Hungary. Here is one he made on sharpening a flint. I like the tool he has made as the little lip of the brass tool just sits on the flint edge and controls knocking off just a little bit and it can be done while the flint is still in the cock jaws. Easy tool to make.

 
Excellent video. I dress my flints much like in the video. The difference is I use a small copper hammer and hold the cock out of the half cock notch so the contact points aren't stressed or the sear broken.

I've had a few flints that gave only 4 or 5 shots and no more. I've also had flints that went over 100 shots. Normally a flint will fire just fine for 20 to 30 shots before it balks. I then flake the edge and get several more shots. By the third knapping I'll often reverse the flint for more shots until nothing useful is left. Average life is just a wild guess but I'd generally say at least 50 shots, often many more, from a new flint. Sometimes a good flint will self knapp and nothing needs to be done.
 
Is the tool in the video commercially available? I'm not sure I've seen a brass rod like that before. I have a small brass hammer, flat heads on both sides, but would like something like that. I suppose I could take a masonry nail and grind an edge on it to do the same thing, but I like the idea of brass so my clumsy self doesn't mess up my weapons. I may be terrible at shooting them, I may struggle with them from time to time, but I love them none the less!
 
I've seen that video. That's how I do it. I have one of those forged screwdriver/snapping hammer combo tools. It has a nice point on it, and I use my ball starter with it just like in that video.
 
That type of tool I have heard called a "nibbler".

Here is one made from drill rod (thanks Prior Mt. Bill) and a tool I made of similar use (1/16" notch to flake flints) from a Army Surplus 1911 tool.

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I average 30-50 shots per flint. I do have one flint that I retired last Sept with over 150 shots on it.
 
I have watched a number of this guy's hunting videos from Hungary. Here is one he made on sharpening a flint. I like the tool he has made as the little lip of the brass tool just sits on the flint edge and controls knocking off just a little bit and it can be done while the flint is still in the cock jaws. Easy tool to make.


Well, you can do it that way if you want but pressure faking is more precise , produces a better edge and makes your flints last longer. There are a couple of problems with the method shown. The first is whacking on the end of the cock with the sear in the half cock position which tends to batter the sear edge and strain the cock arm. Second is that method of flaking continually in one direction (downward) keeps raising the striking edge of the flint. You can of course flip the flint over but you will have to do this much less with pressure flaking as the chips taken are smaller generally. What your after is a level row of chip scarps across a more or less straight line the width of the frizzen face. With a pressure flaker and a little practice you can control better the edge shape, level and height.
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Here is a shot of how it is done supporting the cock with your finger against the pressure flaker thrust.
 

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Most purchased flints are kapped from cores which gives them a ridge back but better flints are made from flat flakes in my opinion.
 

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Three different pressure flakers I use for point making . The little one on the end is what I use for gun flint sharpening. Some of the flint flakes left over from
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larger point making which is what ultimately winds up in the gun flint pile.
 
With this method your not pounding on anything all your doing is pushing in and down against your finger which is supporting the cock arm and sear edge.
 
I have two locks from same manufacturer. Using same type and size flints, one gets as many as 80-shots. The flint will eventually be a nub barely sticking past the cock. The other gets around 30-shots. The flint will get dull or get jagged edge around that #. The lock tuning and geometry makes a huge difference.
 
I have two locks from same manufacturer. Using same type and size flints, one gets as many as 80-shots. The flint will eventually be a nub barely sticking past the cock. The other gets around 30-shots. The flint will get dull or get jagged edge around that #. The lock tuning and geometry makes a huge difference.
True, good lock geometry and spring balance are critical to flint life but even that can be some what mitigated by good flint quality and a proper edge. What were after is not only how long a flint will spark but how consistent the spark generation is as this directly effects practical accuracy. It is comparable to a bunch of old caps in percussion that give different levels of brisance (fire) at each shot. A quick pressure flake tune up between each ten shot relay will not only extend your flints life it will also probably improve your score with more consistent ignition.
Another benefit is that it will also extend your frizzen life because the edge contact is continually being slightly changed vertically and laterally to shear off fresh frizzen steel in a different location.
Another reason pressure flaking is the best method of flint edge sharpening is because of the more even(stronger) ridges it produces between flake scarps. These ridge points are what actually make contact with the frizzen regardless of how one sharpens and shears steel, they also strengthen the edge as well and when worn down become the platforms for your next row of sharpening scarps.
Proper flint management is every bit as important as amount, type and positioning of pan powder.
 
M. De Land - you're pressing the flint edge from the bottom? I can't tell for sure from the photos. Thanks
The actual chip is pressed off in and down toward your finger pad. You can also use the point of the flaker to prepare the platform edge for the flake removal by an upward picking motion. Edge prep with the point is helpful in pressing off a clean flake. You want the edge/point of the platform your pressing against to not crush when the pressure is applied.
 
If you run into a stubborn platform that won't release then the flint can be removed from the cock and you can lay it flat on a table top or board and get more pressure on it to remove. If the flint is hard to flake it can be heat treated which generally makes it more cooperative. Some of the dark flint is very ornery and can stand a stint in the oven for a few hours.
In one of the pictures you will notice a pop cycle stick over my finger pad.This keeps the very sharp flakes from cutting into you if your pad is not calloused and hard enough. It's a good idea at any time as flint chips can be sharper than a fresh razor blade. A scrap of hard leather can be substituted for the pop cycle stick.
 
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