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jimbeilke

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I am finally going to try a roundball from my flintlock 10ga jug choked turkey gun. Any suggestions as to loads,powder patches etc. Thanks
 
In my original EIC percussion musket, I shoot a .750" ball from a Jeff Tanner mould.
Musket's bore is .760".
I use wads and no patch.
Off a standing rest, it'll put the balls in a 3 1/2 to 4" group at 50 yards.
Off-hand I'm not half as good!
Pommy B's musket does just as well with a similar load.
This was with 125 grains of 2F. thick felt wads, top one well lubricated. (Bill Curtis load)
 
Why don't you patch your round ball?
I can’t answer for him, but I can say that many (including myself) find smoothbores shoot just as well with bare ball. “Chewed” ball is another option. Additionally, some folks eschew the patched round ball in smoothbores because there isn’t really evidence to it being done in the period when these guns were new technology. I enjoy using gear that is historically documented and in the manner that it was used historically.

A third reason I don’t patch balls in smoothies typically is that it’s so much easier to load. No doubt all the smoothbore PRB shooters would outshoot me…
 
In my tests, there is no difference over common smoothbore distances for hunting between patched and not patched.
I don't use patches anymore except ones I still have lying around for shot sometimes.
 
My own experience matches yours. The only historical reference I know of about Patching balls in smoothies come from the idea of loading them in the fingers of worn out gloves.
Now as one might shoot ten shots faster then you wear out gloves one may have used thin leather patching in the past.
As a wadded ball can shoot near as well as PRB it makes sense to shoot wadded in a smoothie.
That said I hunt with a PRB, thinking that a PRB SEEMS (I think) less likely to move at all off the powder when moving in the woods.
 
JimB,

In my case, I don't patch these balls because they are too close to bore size to wear a patch. (.750" ball, and .760" bore.)
Bill Curtis used this combination and did very well at National and I believe International shoots with them. In the timed events he participated in, he had time to spare, whilst some using patches really struggled just to finish in time.
If I had a ball mould that threw a smaller size, I might try a patch, but rifles are easier to load patched than a smoothbore very often.
A good pal back in the UK uses patches and a lesser charge, and can shoot scores in the mid or bit higher 90's in International matches. I think it also comes down to practice! LOL.
The load I use is;
Powder, a thick felt wad, (this forms a nest to hold the ball central on the way up the barrel)
Ball, a good big gob of lube, (I use Udderly Smooth,(Wally world for one))
Lastly another thick felt wad. (This hold ball firm in the bore of course)
Wads are at least a half inch thick, cut with a ten-bore arch punch. 3/4" thick is better.
 
JimB,

In my case, I don't patch these balls because they are too close to bore size to wear a patch. (.750" ball, and .760" bore.)
Bill Curtis used this combination and did very well at National and I believe International shoots with them. In the timed events he participated in, he had time to spare, whilst some using patches really struggled just to finish in time.
If I had a ball mould that threw a smaller size, I might try a patch, but rifles are easier to load patched than a smoothbore very often.
A good pal back in the UK uses patches and a lesser charge, and can shoot scores in the mid or bit higher 90's in International matches. I think it also comes down to practice! LOL.
The load I use is;
Powder, a thick felt wad, (this forms a nest to hold the ball central on the way up the barrel)
Ball, a good big gob of lube, (I use Udderly Smooth,(Wally world for one))
Lastly another thick felt wad. (This hold ball firm in the bore of course)
Wads are at least a half inch thick, cut with a ten-bore arch punch. 3/4" thick is better.
What kind of charge are you using ?
 
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