Round Ball weight

Not willing to totally write off the aluminum molds just yet (have a Lee 320 real mold that my Renegade really likes). Did up my temps a bit and work on consistency last night with the steel single .495 mold. Managed to cast and weigh 150 that ranged .8g with about 10% rejects. Once again, thanks for the input!

ppg1949 said:

I go with boomerang on weight tolerances. Don't pitch your aluminum molds just yet, you might figure it out. I use a Lee bottom pour pot and single cavity Lee molds. I do keep the mold warm on the melting pot between use. Generally I have less than a 10 percent throw back.

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I use a GE hotplate to preheat my molds and when I take a break from casting or need to fill the pot again, I set the mold back on the plate.
I have zero issues with the aluminum molds.
My discard rate is normally 2-3%.
BTW - I also own some brass molds from MIHEC, Steel molds from Lyman and others, several aluminum molds form Night Owl, etc.....
There is nothing detracting from any of them if they are used properly.
I suspect your casting issues are experience related and not keeping a consistent rhythm and fast enough pace when casting.
Keep at it, you will get it right and make many thousands of great projectiles.

I have equal luck with iron, brass an aluminum molds; but they do benefit from individual casting rhythms. Unless your goal is competition accuracy I see no need for weighing or measuring ball. I often shoot one hole groups at 50 yards with just a visual check for holes or bad wrinkles.

Griz44Mag said:

Nothing at all wrong with aluminum molds.
I have some that are 30 years (+) old and still cast perfectly good rounds.

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I AGREE. DON'T PITCH THE ALUMINUM MOULDS. JUST CAST FAST ENOUGH THAT THE DON'T COO DOWN BETWEEN CASTS.
YOU SHOULD ALWYS CAST RAPIDLY. AS SOMEONE MENTIONED YOU GET A SORT OF RHYTHM GOING AND BEFORE YOU KNOW IT YO HAVE BIG BUNCH OF NICE SOLID LEAD BALLS.
IF THERE IS A SCRP METDEALER IN YOUR AREA, SEE IF THEY HAVE ANY LEAD YO CAN CUT WITH YOUR THUMBNAIL

MOST RANGES HAVE THE TARGETS IN FRONT OF A BERM. HAS ANYONE EVERY HELPED CLEAN AND RESTRUCTURE THAT BEM WITH AN EYE TO RECOVERING EXPENDED PROJECTILES?

DUTCH SCHULTZ

hanshi said:

I have equal luck with iron, brass an aluminum molds; but they do benefit from individual casting rhythms. Unless your goal is competition accuracy I see no need for weighing or measuring ball. I often shoot one hole groups at 50 yards with just a visual check for holes or bad wrinkles.

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I agree. I've weighed and not weighed with no difference in the results. If the ball is smooth and looks round, I shoot it these days. Granted, I don't shoot in competition, just a hunter. I shoot targets to test loads and stay proficient. Once I settle on a ball/patch/powder combination, I don't think I can blame a bad shot on the ball, the load or the gun. The shooter, on the other hand, is prone to inaccuracy at times.

Just got a .395 Lee double round ball mold in mail Yesterday and after a good cleaning and casting about 10 sets of balls that went right back in the pot I cast 100 balls and weighed them. Only three outside half grain difference. I was very impressed with it cuts a really low sprue also. My TC .315 molds leave a very noticeable protruding sprue so I may have to get a Lee .315 to try out if they make one.

I use lee molds and usually cast just outside my open garage door under the overhang. Outside temperature can effect my casting rhythm. I may have to slow the pace just a bit on a hot day and if it is cool I can work a bit faster. I don’t normally cast on real hot or cold days.

Lead temperature has an effect on size and weight of round balls. With my Lee bottom pour pot, the temperature of the lead goes up as the amount of lead goes down. I need to turn it down or add lead to keep it from getting too hot.

GregLaRoche said:

Lead temperature has an effect on size and weight of round balls. With my Lee bottom pour pot, the temperature of the lead goes up as the amount of lead goes down. I need to turn it down or add lead to keep it from getting too hot.

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That has been my experience as well. On the other hand, I imagine that is the case with any pot.

Rifleman1776 said:

Maven gave a good response. Lot of advice in few words. Keeping temps up and being consistent is key. One mould, one dipper, developing a routine for each pour and you will be turning out good rb in no time.

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I have cast RB for my fdc 20 with the idea they would not have been casting ball as close as can be done today in the era of my gun.
If they aren’t to wrinkly they get shot and I have once or twice made really nice off hand groups. The accuracy is more affected by me than the weight and look of my casting job.

I use a bottom pour pot and add a little lead when it goes down about a inch wait a few minutes and leave the mold over the pot . then keep casting
I use primarily the lee molds. I do have one steel ideal single cavity mold and do get better results .