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Flint to Cap conversion

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Walking eagle, I am a contemporary builder. I built a convertible rifle last year using the small Siler Flintlock Lock and the small Siler Percussion lock. The drum and vent liner are the exact same size, diameter and thread pitch. The locks interchange with absolutely no problems. I had to do no trigger modifications and I am using a double set trigger. The sear locations were the exact same on my 2 locks. Perhaps just lucky ? Not sure but it worked with no problems. Just giving you my experience. Actually it is more critical getting the percussion lock in the proper place, u must support the drum with the bolster on the percussion lock. The vent liner location is not as critical. If you have the Chambers Golden Age lock it is slightly larger than the Siler large lock and therefore this lick would not interchange with the large siler percussion. You can get the exact lock plate measurements on the track of the wolf website.
Good day.
 
Alice1885 said:
Walking eagle, I am a contemporary builder. I built a convertible rifle last year using the small Siler Flintlock Lock and the small Siler Percussion lock. The drum and vent liner are the exact same size, diameter and thread pitch. The locks interchange with absolutely no problems. I had to do no trigger modifications and I am using a double set trigger. The sear locations were the exact same on my 2 locks. Perhaps just lucky ? Not sure but it worked with no problems. Just giving you my experience. Actually it is more critical getting the percussion lock in the proper place, u must support the drum with the bolster on the percussion lock. The vent liner location is not as critical. If you have the Chambers Golden Age lock it is slightly larger than the Siler large lock and therefore this lick would not interchange with the large siler percussion. You can get the exact lock plate measurements on the track of the wolf website.
Good day.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this information. My current lock is the deluxe siler Chambers, and I see this is available as both flint and percussion. They appear to be dimensionally similar, just looking to see if practical experience could confirm. Sometime this winter I will order the percussion version up and find out for myself.
Walk
 
Walk, if and when u decide to do this conversion contact me if you have any questions or concerns. The best way in my opinion to get your drum placed correctly is to have your percussion lock in the lock mortise and then remove your clean out screw from the drum, and place your drum upside down into the half Moon support hole that is in your lock plate. Then u can use a punch or whatever you have that fits thru the drum to transfer you a mark for your location. Like I said the drum location is critical due the lock must support it, otherwise when your cock (hammer) drops if the lock isn't supporting it will basically pull the threads out of the barrel. Good luck and hope it is successful for you.
Good day , Gordy
 
You may find the cap conversion LESS reliable than the flintlock. I have more reliable ignition with my flintlocks. All of mine have quaility locks and good liners. All of my cap guns with drums are more prone to misfires. I think it has to do with the convoluted flash channel getting oil in it. Once they shoot once they are OK. My cap locks with the nipple screwed into the barrel, underhammer and side lock are extremely reliable. They are better than flint or side hammer cap guns.

Another thing to consider is a side slapper lock. You can get nipples with 5/16-32TPI threads tha likely fit your liner threads. If you can make or find such a lock you will have burned no bridges for going back to flint. Use musket caps and you will have the ultimate in reliability for hunting.
 
I converted a t/c flintlock to a percussion . took out the touchhole liner and replaced it with a nipple drum . then ground out area on the hammer lock . took my first black powder deer with it .
 

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