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Water - Moisture Contamination of loaded barrel....

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I got a new rifle and after a few shots I could not get it to fire. At the range I did not have the proper tools, lighting or time to figure this out. I disassembled the rifle and took it home.

The rifle was loaded with 80 grains FFFg Goex, a .018 pillow ticking "dry" patch previously treated with 7:1 Water/Ballistol and of course a properly sized ball. The patched ball loads easy. A light whack on the short starter gets it going and the ramrod with drive it down in one motion.

At home I tried adamantly to pull the ball … but it wasn't working. I poured a cup of water down the barrel to soak the patch. About 15 minutes later I dumped out the barrel back into the cup and the whole cup filled up. I poured two shot-glasses of WD-40 down the barrel and waited about a half-hour. Nearly all of the WD-40 came back out. I poured a half-cup of mineral spirits down the barrel thinking it was thinner than WD-40 and would work its way to the patch lubricate load at the same time. Well, all the mineral spirits came back out and the cup was again half-full.

Not sure what to do next and frustrated, I left the barrel in the closet pointed upwards thinking whatever moisture I put in the barrel would make its way downward. 10-days later I made another attempt to pull the ball and to blow it out with compressed air. Nada. At a loss, I went to the range today.

This happens to be a flintlock, but the point of what happened applies to percussion just as well. I removed the touch-hole liner and put 4-grain of FFFFg in there. I re-seated the ball to make sure it was down all the way.

Well don't you know it - it discharged instantly and hit the target pretty close to where a good fresh charge would!

Personally, I was amazed that the powder charge was not degraded. I expected it to be practically inert. No, it was a full-power discharge based on noise, recoil, smoke and impact on the target.

My point is that in spite of all the "moisture" I put down the barrel (literally cups full of it) it seems none made it to the powder. Wow - I certainly learned something. I thought the charge would get "moist" just sitting around outside in varying temperature and humidity. I am humbled regarding that belief!

BTW, I did figure out what was wrong in the first place and addressed several things that resulted in reliable discharge.
 
Cool, do an underwater test next

EMOJI 1.JPG
LD
 
Yup, about what I've figured. Thank you for proving it. This is why I've never bought into the whole, "condensation will ruin your main charge if you bring a cold gun inside overnight and don't pull the load," theory when the subject of leaving a muzzleloader loaded for days during hunting season comes up.
 
Yup, about what I've figured. Thank you for proving it.

Well he proved it......once....with his barrel, and his ball and patch combo.....
Might be different if he was loading a looser ball, say one of those where the shooter is using a combination that "loads merely with thumb pressure", and thus the pressure of the ball against the patch and barrel is not nearly as tight..., and was using a spit patch so there was no grease on the cloth. ;)

LD
 
What went wrong in the first place? This rifle was new to me. I had cleaned the bore but did not pay attention to the patent breach. Looking back, I did not give that a thorough cleaning. Next, I poured powder all at once into the barrel. I have found with a patent breach to slowly drizzle the powder down. Then I did not "smack" the side opposite the lock to get powder to move towards the touch hole. My touch-hole tools were too big to pick the hole (and the hole was less than 1/16th in the first place). I did not swab between shots, only after every 3. At some point I lost spark. This was the final straw when I said "Oh well" and came home. Once at home I was quickly able to remove the lock and figure out that the flint had become loose and wasn't sparking. As soon as I tightened the flint jaws it sparked like a Fourth of July sparkler. When I pulled the touch-hole liner it was badly caked with black on the inside and further restricting the already small hole.

To get it to fire, I just re-seated the ball (it hadn't seemed to have moved), picked the powder out from behind the touch-hole, put in a few grains of FFFFg, replaced the clean liner and installed the lock with a tight flint. It went right off-no delay. I continued to shoot 14 shots that day to sight-in with alcohol swabbing when loading became difficult.

Since then I have thoroughly cleaned the patent breach. I figured out what the rifle likes and what rituals to do in my loading. I've opened the touch-hole and coned the back of the liner. I worked on lock spring tension. At home without a ball, I load a olive oil soaked cork wad over 25 grains of FFFg with FFFFg in the pan. So far, it fires instantly for a series of 5-shots. I will get back to the range and see if these remedies have fully addressed any issues that were there.

I am really thankful that the ball shot out. Removing it without firing was not looking good. Still surprised that the powder was fine after all that liquid I put down the barrel.
 
Thank you for sharing your findings. Knowing how a failure to fire was resolved may help others to save their problems. As you found out, you had a pile of problems. Loose flint for no spark. Fouling blocking the touch hole and packing in the liner. New gun grease in the patent breech. You hit the trifecta.

Reminds us all to clean the lubricant from the bore and the chambered breech. Clear the touch hole and vent liner. Verify the condition of the flint and its abut to generate a spark. It's so a good reminder for that these conditions may allow us to fire a few times but lay in wait to ambush our range time later.
 
Reminds us all to clean the lubricant from the bore and the chambered breech.

A squirt of MAP down the barrel a wet patch followed by two dry everything shoots out the vent or nipple and you're off to the races. Takes longer to type than actually do.
Saves a lot of headaches.
Works much better than snapping a cap (which can actually cause problems ) and doesn't waste caps.
 
That's why it's always a good idea to give a gun a swab or 2 with alcohol before you start shooting. That cleans out the grease and oil residue. Stuck balls can be really problematic though. Then a dry patch, and give it a few minutes to dry out thoroughly

I would also advise you to NOT pull the vent liner very often--or ever. Those only need to be pulled when they need to be replaced, which is about a zillion shots down the road.
 
Range Report Follow Up:

Today I fired 14 shots total. Instant ignition on all. Good accuracy and consistency. All the little fixes worked. My #1 rifle likes to have a feather or pick in the touch hole before pouring powder. Not this one, #2 wants to be "pricked" with a thick paperclip so the powder can be felt and moved after it is loaded. Thanks!
 
Range Report Follow Up:

Today I fired 14 shots total. Instant ignition on all. Good accuracy and consistency. All the little fixes worked. My #1 rifle likes to have a feather or pick in the touch hole before pouring powder. Not this one, #2 wants to be "pricked" with a thick paperclip so the powder can be felt and moved after it is loaded. Thanks!
Funny critters ain't they :)
 
It is odd perhaps but powder dosn't spoil that easy . I left a horn flask in rain 24 hours or so yet it didnt spoil the powder, and I got upset on a raft the flask & the little Eagle primer despite its common top did not suffer spoilation though emersed .. Sounds like a good case for making a decent ball drawer to put in your butt box . Gets there with patience .
Rudyard
 
The graphite coating that they put on the powder repels water.
Original powder didn't have it though.
 

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