Issues... and I'm upset !!!

Any help here is greatly appreciated. I've had a traditions percussion woodsman for 10 plus years that I traded for. Got rid of a pistol I didn't like and picked up a great looking, nicely made piece of history (sort of). It turned out not to be very reliable at the time, put it away for several years, and took it back out recently for a little bit of deperation cow elk hunting.

I recently recalled why I had closeted it... #11 caps are very loose, #10 are too tight. I can almost always guarantee a hang fire, or failure to ignite. After usually 2 (if Im lucky to get that far) shots the gun simply will no longer fire and I end up pulling the projectile and working the propellant out.

Im very anal about cleaning, poking the nipple clean after each shot and even disassembling the ignition chamber after the nipple (I don't know the name of this part) and adding powder there to try and get an ignition. Im literally at a loss as to what to do to get this rifle to work properly.

Primers are fresh CCI's and Im using fresh pyrodex RS. I keep every thing in the garage (insulated but not heated) and dry. I live in northern Idaho.

I kid you not when I say I'm about ready to wrap this gorgeous rifle around a tree just sighting it in, let alone feel comfortable dragging it out into the woods with me after elk.

Install a Musket cap nipple, use RWS caps and get a nipple primer for stubborn charges. If that doesn't work then nothing will.

What Stantheman said, plus get some real ffg or fffg powder and throw that pyrodex manure out, it gets worse and worse with age and will wind up as a solid clump of stuff after a few years.

Obviously you are not getting the powder ignited as it should be. I seriously doubt that rifle is the problem.....the problem has to lie in the procedures used. I would change out the nipple if it is not sized properly to a #11 cap, and switch to a 3f black powder and get rid of that Pyrodex. The bottom line is that a spark from your ignition source coming into contact with real black powder has to result in a firing of the rifle....period !

I had a CVA years ago that gave me similar fits. After reading somewhere about venting the drum (probably in one of the old Dixie catalogs) and having nothing to lose, I drilled a tiny hole in the drum right up next to the barrel. It supposedly released any compression that would inhibit the cap's flame front getting to the main charge. That particular rifle went to 100% ignition after drilling and when hunting, I'd seal off the vent hole with a little dab of patch lube. I've got no scientific evidence it works but in that particular case, it sure beat wrapping the rifle around a tree.

Definitely get the nipple issue fixed first.

I missed the part with the Pyrodex, yes, use real Black in it. You're using harder to ignite powder in a rifle with already finicky ignition.

And for 3 or 4 bucks, change out the nipple.

If you listen you will hear a common theme, real fffg black powder and new nipple. Follow this advice.
I will also add about ensuring proper cleaning, which for your rifle means pulling the barrel off and pumping water through the nipple into the barrel. Then follow with proper drying and lubrication.
Before loading to shoot, run a dry patch and snap a couple caps to ensure flame channel is clear. After adding the powder, BUT before seating the projectile, tap the side of the gun to get the powder settled in the bottom.
Walk

I started using Pyrodex RS, had misfires & hangfire. Went to Triple 7, much better. The Triple 7 is a finer texture, even though it's FFG, and I assume it gets in the drum better.

I use #11 Magnum caps. They are too loose, but I just pinch them a bit before putting them on.

You have several problems going on.

#1 change the nipple to a Hotshot nipple (11th on down in the list.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/64/1

#2 Pyrodex RS is prone to hangfires, switch to Pyrodex P and rework up your load. Or simply use real black powder 3fff, The patent breech of a CVA, Traditions has a very small passage way. Do you butt slap the gun after poring powder down the barrel to shake it into the bolster ?

#3 You say you are "anal" about cleaning, but do you clean the gun of oil before using?
Are you using bore butter on the bore ? what patch lube are you using ?

# 4 Storing powder in or caps or even guns in an unheated garage is bad in northern climates. You are prone to condensation even if you can't see it. You will also run into this problem in a basement for the first 3 or 4 feet off the floor.

Finer powder and tip the rifle on its side and bang on the breech area to get the powder to flow into the space under the cap. Do you live anywhere near Bonners Ferry? I know a black powder guy there who would be happy to help out.

Maybe even check out one of those 209 Shotgun Primer adapter nipples.

I usually hate them but I used one of the Mag-Spark adapters on a T/C New Englander to burn up some 777. Instant ignition every time, just very slow to recap and it gets gummy quick. Great for hunting , terrible for range shooting but testers in magazines have set off BlackHorn 209 in a Pedersoli side lock with a 209 nipple.

Stantheman86 said:

Maybe even check out one of those 209 Shotgun Primer adapter nipples.

I usually hate them but I used one of the Mag-Spark adapters on a T/C New Englander to burn up some 777. Instant ignition every time, just very slow to recap and it gets gummy quick. Great for hunting , terrible for range shooting but testers in magazines have set off BlackHorn 209 in a Pedersoli side lock with a 209 nipple.

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Be careful. Period "HC" goblins will spank you.

Stantheman86 said:

Maybe even check out one of those 209 Shotgun Primer adapter nipples.

Click to expand...

If one has to resort to a 209 primer or even an musket nipple to make their muzzleloader work, they are either doing something wrong or something is wrong.

They are workarounds to solving the problem that shouldn't exist in the first place.

Treestalker said:

What Stantheman said, plus get some real ffg or fffg powder and throw that pyrodex manure out, it gets worse and worse with age and will wind up as a solid clump of stuff after a few years.

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Yes, use REAL black powder!

Black powder! The "substitute" for substitutes.

You say you are anal about cleaning. How much oil is left in the breech after cleaning? That CVA breech will collect the oil and the oil will thicken on storage and block the flash channel as it traps powder fouling at the breech even though Pyrodex produces less apparent fouling than black Powder.

After cleaning, store your rifle muzzle down so the oil left after cleaning drains from the breech. For storage you just need a coating of rust inhibiting lubrication, not a puddle. When you go to the range, use an alcohol dampened patch to wipe put any accumulated oil in the barrel. Use a 30 caliber brush and a damp alcohol patch to clean the CVA reduced size chambered breech. Remove the nipple and use an alcohol dampened pipe cleaner to wipe out the flash channel. Run a damp patch to the breech and fire a cap to pull any remaining residue from the breech.

Others have pointed out that Pyrodex requires more heat to ignite than black powder. Get CCI Magnum caps and a Hot Shot or Spitfire #11 nipple as these are designed to get more heat from the cap to the charge. They work quite well with black powder too.

I dont think anyone has mentioned a fouling scrapper?

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/842/1

Get one for your rifle, put it on a good range rod and I bet you will scrap some crud of the bottom of your barrel that is causing you to have these issues.

I also vote for a new nipple and real BP.

Fleener

fleener said:

I dont think anyone has mentioned a fouling scrapper?

Fleener

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On a CVA /Traditions breech ?

I'm with Carbon 6 on this. A fouling scraper won't get into that chambered breech on a CVA. A good idea for a non chambered breech.