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Cock angle, position and strike

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I have a flintlock that I am working with. As arrived, the cock would only take a nub of a flint. Literally a 1/4" long little piece. Anything longer touched the frizzen face even at full ready fire position. I mapped it out and bent the cock. 3 times actually! I have it to where it can now take a full sized 5/8 flint at full ready fire position. It strikes the frizzen near the top 1/3rd and rides it well, making good spark and quick ignition. The issue is the safe notch (half-cock). With the cock in this position the flint touches the frizzen face and pushes it forward somewhere less than 1/4 forward. The flint is rearward in the cock as much as possible and whether I use leather or lead it is notched to allow it to sit against the post. I prefer not to use a half-piece of flint as it really doesn't leave much flint left past the nose of the cock. Can I close up the half cock notch to move it back further? Or close it completely and cut a new one in appropriate place? Bending the hammer more any which way does not work out because the flint is in the right place now at full ready fire position.
Ideas...solutions...anecdotes...?
 
Can I close up the half cock notch to move it back further? Or close it completely and cut a new one in appropriate place?

If you have the right equipment and skill, yes.

You need to have the right welding equipment to weld up the existing half cock notch. This should be done with a high carbon filler rod so the weld itself will heat treat. TIG welding would be best, but could be done with MIG.

You would want to anneal the tumbler first. Weld up the existing half cock notch. File and grind the tumbler back to shape. Re-cut the half cock notch further back on the tumbler. Re-harden the tumbler, then draw it to the proper temper.

If this doesn't work, you could look for a parts lock of the same model as yours on eBay and buy it for the tumbler. It may have the notches in the correct location and you can simply change out the parts.

Even a percussion lock like this one might work as a parts source.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/percussion...062916?hash=item23c96a9d84:g:KQUAAOSwv7lduI0g
 
Check the sear to see if the tip that engages the tumbler is shorter then normal. That in itself would account for the low position of the cock.
 
Good luck on your project, those CVA locks almost made me give up on flintlocks!
 
Another option is to make a new tumbler. It's not that hard to do if you have the right equipment and the patience. However, it would be a whole lot easier to just buy a better lock.

While I very much like the "buy a better lock" option, and L&R is your company for that...., ;)

BEFORE you make a new tumbler, make sure the tumbler in the CVA lock goes with that lock, and try a replacement tumbler!

CVA flinters were made in Spain, and a lot of the stuff on the locks is standard, so..., Lots of scenarios would cause your lock to have a tumbler that functions but doesn't "fit"....
1) the previous owner got a replacement tumbler, but it was for a different lock... could've ordered the wrong one or the parts supplier could've sent the wrong one...
2) the guys at the factory put the wrong tumbler into the lock...Hey it was a Friday afternoon and Madrid was playing in an hour, so.....and the quality check guy missed it...
3) Somebody tinkered with the proper tumbler, so that now what you have is a FUBAR'd tumbler, that simply needs a factory spec replacement.

Even if you get it back to factory specs....I prefer you install an L&R "RPL" lock for that rifle, into your rifle.

LD
 
I like the longer sear approach. You’d be surprised how maybe 0.050” length increase will be multiplied at the level of the flint.
 

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