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Defective ramrod !

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Stony Broke

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Normally I use wood or fiberglass range rods and have a bunch of them with different sizes of jags attached. I had one that was a factory built hollow aluminum rod with a brass end to screw your jag into. I put a nice chunk of antler on one end and made it into an attractive and usable rod. It worked well until the other day when I was sighting in a TC Hawken at my range. I got the rifle sighted in and was patching out the bore a little to clean it up while the fouling was fresh, before I got it home for a good cleaning. One patch was pretty tight down by the breech plug end, and when I bumped the rod a little harder to get it to come out, the brass end detached itself from the rod. I managed to get it out by working some powder through the nipple hole and shooting it out ( it buried itself about 4 inches into the sand by my feet ?)
looking at the end piece, it had a shallow groove around it that I guess was where the rod must have been pressed into, but it wasn't really even pinned on. This sort of product is totally unacceptable to me !
TsZZPPNl.jpg
 
Ruff up the insert and the inside of the shaft, then epoxy it back in, then cross drill and install a pin.
Ruff up the insert and the inside of the shaft, then epoxy it back in, then cross drill and install a pin.
A little late for that....I put it under my knee, bent it in half and threw it into the trash ! I saved the antler handle and put together a new fiberglass one....with pins through it !
 
I simply don't trust the tips on any rod that I buy pre-made, or that come with the rifle/gun, unless they are pinned. I regularly install a pin on rods with tips that I have acquired, with the exception of two forged steel one-piece rammers for muskets, and a brass range rod. Too many times the ones that I got, or the ones that I made without adding the pin, have come apart, and Murphy's Law applies to muzzle loader failures too. :thumb:

OH and Pedersoli Bess ramrods with the "button tip" added at the end of the rod....that often fails and I have to silver solder it back into place to make it stay.

LD
 
Get rid of that rod and buy or make one with threaded ends. The buy a screw in jag. Thus way you won't lose it again.
 
I simply don't trust the tips on any rod that I buy pre-made, or that come with the rifle/gun, unless they are pinned. I regularly install a pin on rods with tips that I have acquired, with the exception of two forged steel one-piece rammers for muskets, and a brass range rod. Too many times the ones that I got, or the ones that I made without adding the pin, have come apart, and Murphy's Law applies to muzzle loader failures too. :thumb:
Pedersoli wood rods should be replaced immediatly , complete junk, their guns are good though
OH and Pedersoli Bess ramrods with the "button tip" added at the end of the rod....that often fails and I have to silver solder it back into place to make it stay.

LD
 
I've made bunches of range rods over the years...I normally have a different one for every rifle. I always epoxy on the tips and then put a brass pin through them. This rod that gave me the problem was something that came along with a rifle I bought one time and I just assumed it was pinned since it had a small shiny spot on either side that resembled a pin. I want my stuff like this to work...without problems, and resurrecting the defective hollow rod just was not in my nature. The new rod I made up will last me for the lifetime of the rifle without giving me problems.
 
I don't know about plastic rods or "defective" rods. Learned the hard way that leaving a jag attached to your under-barrel ramrod so that the jag extends beyond the muzzle can change the strike of your ball when you fire. I was hunting on a ranch up on the Pedernales, carrying my .54 J&S Hawken for her first hunt. She'd been well sighted in at 25 and 50 yards with the load I was using. When I swabbed the bore dry and loaded that morning, I left the jag attached to her ramrod simply so I wouldn't have to dig around in my possibles looking for it if needed. A good-sized buck came to me about first light and stopped not more than 30 yards away. He was facing me on a slight angle, quartered to my left. I rested the rifle barrel on a post with my ol' hat as a cushion and squoze the trigger, holding on the front of his left shoulder. Rifle went "BANG!" and I grounded the buttplate, reaching for my horn, and waited for that deer to fall down. Instead he went galloping off through the scrub as I poured another charge down. By the time I got reloaded my hunting buddy wandered up from his stand to help me dress out the meat --- he said he heard the shot. We went up to where the deer was standing and sure enough, there was his track. Couldn't find a trace of blood or hair, and from the tracks that buck was still gaining speed when he went over the rise. Later that day, I scrounged a piece of rusty roofing tin from a tumble-down shed nearby, propped it on a bush right where the deer was standing, and fired at a rust spot the size of my palm, shooting from the same spot with the same rest. The ball hit about 16 inches directly below the rust spot! I duplicated that result on the range several days later, then removed the jag --- only because it was the only thing different from when I sighted the rifle in --- and hit my mark. I was bumfuzzled! Got in touch with another friend who was also a college professor, showed him the results, and he looked surprised: "Well, naturally. The hot gasses from firing reflect off the surfaces of the jag and change the spin of the bullet." So I said, "Okay -- But what would the effect be?" and he thought for a minute and then said,
"Well, It would make the bullet drop more rapidly, like putting back-spin on a billiard ball." "Huh!" says I. So since then I'm careful to remove the jag from the ramrod I keep in the barrel thimbles --- which is hickory, by the way, with a pinned tip.
I do have a loading rod, longer than the one under the barrel and slightly greater in diameter than that one. It's also hickory. I have two steel range rods that a buddy made for me, with t-handles for strength. One is small diameter for the bores that are .36" or less, and one larger for the .45's and up. I don't use any of those f-word rods, nor plastic either.
Tanglefoot
 
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