• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

Cleaning Antique Tools

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Is this the stuff you mean? https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html

Should you clean the metal in something like mineral spirits or acetone before using it?

Does it take bluing off metal as well?

Do you have to allow the metal to dry and oil it afterwards, I guess?

Some of my parts got wet and surface rusted and that's why I'm asking.

Gus
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As Tinker 2 said molasses and water, may take some weeks. I cleaned up an IMA Brown Bess kit , barrel, lock and ram rod, works a treat. I will chase out rust into pits, but does not etch the metal. It will remove blueing. The vintage car boys down under have been using it forever to clean up car parts. Do not use it if there is any non ferrous metal involve as it may dissolve it.
 
Artificer said:
Is this the stuff you mean? https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html

Should you clean the metal in something like mineral spirits or acetone before using it?

Does it take bluing off metal as well?

Do you have to allow the metal to dry and oil it afterwards, I guess?

Some of my parts got wet and surface rusted and that's why I'm asking.

Gus

Yes, that's it. I haven't checked lately but a while back you could buy it cheaper delivered from the manufacturer. I bought a gallon initially to test it and my next purchase will be 5 galons. It does not etch and will leave a polished surface just that way. I used it to remove the bluing from the cylinder of my Walker and it looks like it came from the factory that way and yes it will remove bluing and browning. It will remove light rust in minutes and can be reused but it'll be weaker. I have had to leave some parts in for hours to get them clean but you can look at the pits with a magnifier and you won't find any rust.
You should clean anything you use it on so as to not comtaminate the EvapoRust and reduce it's effectiveness. It rinses off with water and then you can use WD-40 or something to dry it. It's claimed that it is safe to pour down your household drain. They recomend you redip the piece and let it dry to discourage rusting but I prefer to use regular methods to prevent the rust. Test it somewhere where it won't be seen first. I haven't had any problems except for one badly pitted '63 Springfield hammer that turned black. I haven't seen any problems with other gun parts but I have had a couple of unrelated pieces turn black too. I have noticed that barrels I cleaned with Naval Jelly seemed to be susceptible to rusting faster after.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thank you so much for those directions.

Sounds like I will need to dunk the parts in it for about 5 minutes to get rid of surface rust and do the least harm to bluing?

Do parts need to be rinsed off with water to neutralize/deactivate it or can the parts be rinsed off in Acetone or Compressed Air Gun dried and then the parts oiled?

I'm going to have to set up a sort of mini production line, so I'm trying to figure out the best way to do it.

Gus
 
It removes the bluing just as fast as the rust. Both will be gone! There's no need for any special treatment to remove the EvapoRust, I just use warm water and follow with WD-40.
 
This may sound horrible but I use a grinder. I found an old one from the 20s that has a belt run from a motor behind. I use it on anything. It is so old the bristles are fairly soft and it is not fast. I can do it lightly enough to not take paint off if I need it to stay on. I wouldn't use a modern one.
 
Worked for an old farmer as a teenager. Helped restore an f12 farmall, poured Coca Cola down in the stuck pistons. After a week, they popped out with some taps of a big hammer. I quit drinking soda after that
 
I've heard of a product called Evapo-Rust ( Evapo-Rust ) which is available at a variety of stores and at Harbor Freight ( HF Evapo-Rust ). Purportedly non-toxic and is a little expensive, but apparently can be re-used. I've not used the product, but from what I've read, it works well.

If the item was heavily encrusted with dirt, I'd give it a good wash with water then into rust-remover
Yes, it works. It will leave some black coating and a wire wheel will bring tools to shiny. It does not harm the base metal at all and even threads are not harmed.
 
After watching a few videos I decided to set up an electrolysis tank. It works great and leaves a patina on the metal. If untouched it will stay clean. I have never used it on gun parts, but have used it extensively on antique engine parts and antique tools.
I use ultrasonic on gun parts. In the last few years the ultrasonic cleaners have been mor affordable for the common man.
 
I have used molasses, Evaporust, electrolysis, and acids to remove rust from woodworking tools I use and collect. Evaporust and molasses use the same principle of chelation to remove rust. Evaporust is faster and more expensive than molasses. You can soak steel for several days with no worry of rust. It requires scrubbing to get the residue off, but I use it more than any other rust removal process on every thing that easily fits in a small bucket. I like the stuff.

I use ER on hand planes for all small parts, and those with corrugated soles, then brass brush to clean the corrugations. I have never seen additional damage to the japanned finish with ER nor do I recall paint lifting on other tools. I usually don't use power tools for a restoration as fatal mistakes can happen too quickly. I do use rotary brushes on plane soles (not sides) because the first step of fettling is to flatten the sole anyway, so any scratches will be sanded and polished off.

Electrolysis works best when the anode and cathode are in direct line of sight of each other, and as close as possible without touching. I find it leaves a black residue that doesn't want to come off without a lot of effort, but it most definitely works.

Acid treatments work well to remove rust, but you must keep an eye on it. The cola trick works because of the phosphoric acid in the formula. Phosphoric acid is available through home brewing shops. I have never used it outside of home brewing, but have read it is not as prevalent to cause etching. Test it on something you don't care about before using on a good tool. Take care with acid treatments. I forgot about a very old draw knife once and left it in 9% vinegar too long and ruined it. I use strong vinegar to sharpen files and rasps, and it brings some of them back to good as new. Clean the teeth with a file card, then degrease. Check them every couple of hours. The 5% will be slower, but will also work. I don't use acids on fine tools any more, just as something to sharpen files or maybe a particularly rusty smithing or farming tool.

I remove residue with nylon, brass, and sometimes wire brushes. Razor blade paint scrapers are wonderful to shave off rust from hand saws and large smooth soled planes. Round the corners of the razor blade on a stone so it will not gouge the metal. I am reluctant to use power tools as mistakes happen way too quickly with them (BTDT). I also use steel wool and wet sand with 240 and higher grit paper, always with a sanding block. I also use the green, grey and white abrasive pads. The white ones have no impregnated abrasive, and are great for cleaning wood. I use a lot of the generic Windex from wallyworld to clean wood, but it is cheap and does a decent job. There are better cleaners.

Sorry to be so long, but I have been restoring tools for 15 years or so, and hope this might help someone restoring a nice gizmo. This is like patch lube formulas and butt holes, every one has one they specially like. This is what works for me, so don't get on your high horse if something different works for you. Post it and I may try it. Always looking for a better way. Here is a typical backlog of socket chisels awaiting restoration. Keeps me out of the bars at night.
HPIM3264.JPG
 
Back
Top