CVA Spain Hawken 50

Sad, even after soaking with PB blaster for two days and motor oil for a day, i was unable to pull the bullet. My next step is maybe tack welding a longer screw on a rod (puller on ramrod is pretty short) I was considering a quarter inch tap to the drum so the grease nipple fit tight, but I'm not sure the drum can be replaced after seeing @Zonie post

Frontier's said:

its a simple replacement without the huge extension that cva used.

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And it even has wrench flats, not sure who thought no wrench flats was a good idea?

Frontier's said:

the drum:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CVA-or-Tra...499848&hash=item3fc77e88bd:g:rmkAAOxykmZTNy5G

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Found this in link, anyone know how that works?

NOTE: Installation of a powder drum usually requires indexing to get the nipple hole to line up. If you have never installed one and don't know what I'm talking about you need to have this part installed by a competent gunsmith.

My solution to lining the nipple hole up is to drill and tap drum after it's aligned. I replaced a CVA drum once but can't find the pictures.

If you need some parts that you can't find at TOW or Tradition USA look at this it's very useful for some old fabrications and not only. It's the same manufacturer in Spain : Ardesa = Traditions = Jukar = Dikar...
- https://www.armeriatrelles.com/tienda/en/20-muzzleloading ...

Found a few of those pictures. I thought I had more. These two show the CVA drum that I removed. Notice how the end of it is notched to face the powder channel in the breech plug. You can see the drum is roughed up pretty bad which is because I removed it with a pair of vice grips!





I purchased a blank drum of the correct threads and without the drill and tap for a nipple. I turned the new one in tight and then made a mark to index where to file the half circle (small chain saw file), then turned it in tight and drilled and tapped for the nipple. For convenience sake I installed a 1/4" X 28 nipple.

Track of the wolf sells a little jig for drilling for the nipple hole.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/810/1

With this tool you can do it with a hand drill.

Or, you could start with the pre tapped drum and turn it in and then index it with a file on the shoulder until it lines up. Then remove it and cut the half circle in with the chain saw file.

rp77469 said:

View attachment 17124

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Oh man, I'd hate to see what condition, all those threads are in. After a 3 day oil soak, still cant pull the projectile. I'm thinking I'm the proud new owner of a wall hanger.

Yeah, there's probably no point in pursueing this if the barrel can't be cleared. You can replace the barrel including breech plug and powder drum for $115 from Deer Creek Rifle works. Only you can decide if it's worth doing.

Sometimes the original drums are too long or poorly drilled, here it is the case, but I am turning this rifle into a flintlock rifle so no problem, but sometimes it is better to dismantle the drum and cut it to the right length to be quiet and safe with that...

Sorry, my phone is an old one and the borescope too...

Just finished this job.I ordered the drum without the nipple hole and the drum installation kit from Track of the wolf .My Drum had broken off so Itried an easy out but no luck so I drilled and taped the hole to a 3/8 x16 .ordered th drum with those threads .Installed the drum,installed nipple kit,drilled and tapped nipple hole too match hammer.I’m no machinist but it wasn’t that hard and i recommend getting the recommend taps and drill bit.They even tell you which you need.I new here and I hope this helps if you haven’t already did this

I knew you could do it!

On the new drum, make an index line or something ( a Sharpie magic marker will work) so you know where the flame channel outlet is pointing.
Insert the new drum (use plumber's Teflon tape on the threads, (in-case you ever have to remove it again, it will be a lot easier.) Tighten as much as possible to have the index line pointing to the muzzle.
You shouldn't need any spacers between the drum and barrel to get everything tight and lined up properly. (Least wise, I didn't)
Hopefully, the new drum will have wrench flats. If not, use padded vice grips to tighten it.

A Suggestion:

As long as you have the drum out, go ahead and pull the breech plug. (I forget what size wrench fits, and the one I pulled was on a .45, anyway.)
Removing the breech plug will make it a lot easier (as easy as a breech loader) to get the bore really clean, and to see if there are is any severe pitting or other issues.
Use the plumbers tape on the breech plug threads when you re-install it. It is easy enough to line up the breech plug to screw the drum in.

The Spanish barrels were good and accurate, from what I recall.