• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

Pawn shop find...

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well since Drue made these triggers 20 years ago so some time in the last 20 maybe 30 years .Its a replica . If its not engraved or signed its likely an ameture which dosnt detract at all many excellent ametures out there . Bud Siler & Larry Spisacs first rifles where superbe rifles . Other' pros' turned out mediocrity for years . No accounting for taste . Ime sure it will prouve a fine rifle Regards Rudyard
 
Dear Dan Well Drue supplied triggers don't think he made locks , Yours looks like a Siler if you wanted it as a flintlock You could see if a pan & cock & the steel (Frizzen some call it )and the feather spring could be fitted or you might just buy a new Siler it will be the older Siler . Jim Chambers offers old & improuved Silers as he bought Siler out . There are two sizes about 5" is the rifle size . The drum will screw out and large vents will likely fit thats if you wanted too . Nothing wrong with cap locks I only point out you probably have the option as it sits . That Pawn shop might well lead you to a whole new world of Muzzle loading ,Its kept me interested 60 years .I wish you success and good shooting . OH PS Siler sold Kits and others sold assemble locks the quality then varied if it has a stamp inside the lock plate such as L&S for' Locks & Stuff ' then its its fine.
Regards Rudyard
 
Thanks to everyone for your replies, time, and knowledge!
I plan to keep it percussion. I may sell it after I get it running...some other things are higher on my "need" list, and surgery has not helped the cash flow.
I have a flintlock 50 GPR, a percussion 50 GPR along with a short 54 barrel I can swap out. I also have 54 plains pistol. I put together all from kits, and all are nicely browned. I have successfully hunted with all of them.
We'll see if I get attached to this long rifle by the time I get it running. I am betting I do!
again, THANKS!
 
Lots said all ready. Looks like the parts are pretty good and if re-worked you will have a nice rifle. Some bad carving and bad fitting wood. But that can all be fixed.
 
Thanks to everyone for your replies, time, and knowledge!
I plan to keep it percussion. I may sell it after I get it running...some other things are higher on my "need" list, and surgery has not helped the cash flow.
I have a flintlock 50 GPR, a percussion 50 GPR along with a short 54 barrel I can swap out. I also have 54 plains pistol. I put together all from kits, and all are nicely browned. I have successfully hunted with all of them.
We'll see if I get attached to this long rifle by the time I get it running. I am betting I do!
again, THANKS!
I would suggest that IF you can’t get the rifling cleaned up that you send it out to be slug bored, or just plain rebored to a 54. That will also reduce some of the weight.
The bad thing about salvaging a rusty bore is that even though it may come clean, all the small pits in in the rifling, the grooves in particular, will rust very fast and will be extremely hard to keep clean. My experience has been that they also foul faster. Others may have different experiences. Even with what I just stated, I still can’t resist a project rifle, much like yours...good find!! With a little elbow grease it’ll shoot just fine!
 
I think your first plan of action is to buy a Track of the Wolf catalog

The last time I checked the Track of the wolf catalog was out of print.
Wish I could come across these deals, feel like the old rifle can be a good one. Make sure the weapon hasn't been soldered shut, Not to be a smart a!!, but it is not one of those wall hangers that are not to be fired, is it?
 
Sawyer, no this was a shooter at one time. I'm guessing someone inherited it, shot it. Then couldn't get it to fire. Then removed the drum and nipple to try to clear it (because they didn't have a range rod and ball puller). Then it goes to pawn.
It is getting x rays tonight.
I'll post it when I get it, just for fun. Dan
 
Sawyer, no this was a shooter at one time. I'm guessing someone inherited it, shot it. Then couldn't get it to fire. Then removed the drum and nipple to try to clear it (because they didn't have a range rod and ball puller). Then it goes to pawn.
It is getting x rays tonight.
I'll post it when I get it, just for fun. Dan

Makes one wonder what the deal was. Fascinating, mystery. Oh, well, I was a butcher at one time; and still got some of my mistakes, to remind me of my adolescent stupidity with a hammer and a pair of pliers.
 
Well you tried. Guess the metal too dense for med xray. Clean the barrel good, oil it and pull it.
 
It shows what I expected to see. Just an outline of the gun.

The X-ray machine for X-raying people produces a very weak beam to keep it from damaging the tissue. It has just enough power to be able to go thru skin, meat and cartilage while being blocked by teeth and bones.

The X-ray machines used in industry to see thru metal parts uses hundreds of thousands of volts to create the beam. The beam can go thru several inches of metal. If someone accidentally, or on purpose put a part of their body in the beams path it would totally destroy any living tissue in its path within seconds.

It's the same X-rays but the power of the beam is totally different.
 
I had one gun in the shop that after dry balling some idiot tried to melt the ball out. Looked like what you are describing in the breech.

Pulling the breech plug and cleaning it up fixed the problem so the gun could be test fired and sold.
 
It shows what I expected to see. Just an outline of the gun.

The X-ray machine for X-raying people produces a very weak beam to keep it from damaging the tissue. It has just enough power to be able to go thru skin, meat and cartilage while being blocked by teeth and bones.

The X-ray machines used in industry to see thru metal parts uses hundreds of thousands of volts to create the beam. The beam can go thru several inches of metal. If someone accidentally, or on purpose put a part of their body in the beams path it would totally destroy any living tissue in its path within seconds.

It's the same X-rays but the power of the beam is totally different.



I have been a welder for many years and did not know this thanks for sharing!
 
Back
Top