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L&R replacement lock

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I was in touch with L&R and they said I should be using the RPL-05 in my Trade Rifle instead of the RPL-03.I may be sticking my neck out here but maybe that is why you had so much trouble with your lock.
Eric used the RPL-03, which is supposed to fit the TC Renegade he installed it in. I used a RPL-05 in my GPR and had issues with lockplate and mortise fit.
 
I replaced a Dixie Tennesse lock. The plate fit well and very little had to be removed from the mortise. Only complaint is the small sized flint, but it had to be like that to fit in the existing space.
 
An RPL-3 fits (not really) a TC, a 5 fits a GPR, I put mine in a TC.
Thanks Eric, sorry I got confused on my replies about the RPL locks. I just polished mine up and what a difference on smoothness. It didn't take that long either. The only other thing I'd like to reduce is the HEAVY trigger pull. This Lyman Trade must be around 10 lbs! I'm reading about taking some material off of the tumbler at the full cock notch, and it doesn't take much. Thanks for your help.
 
I replaced a Dixie Tennesse lock. The plate fit well and very little had to be removed from the mortise. Only complaint is the small sized flint, but it had to be like that to fit in the existing space.
Thanks for your reply. I just posted to Eric Krewson about working on my original Lyman lock and it does help to polish the internals to make it alot smoother.
 
I have posted this before; I built a TC kit, when finished the front trigger was about a 10 # trigger. I pulled the triggers and noticed the trigger bar looked like a washboard. I polished the top of it and my trigger pull dropped by half.

In the picture you can see the rough spot on one end that I didn't polish, the whole bar had been like this.

tc rough trigger.JPG
 
Thanks Eric for the tip and I'll do the same thing. I polished all of the components of the lock, including contacting surfaces and it made a big difference in smoothness. Polished it with jewelers rouge and a dremel. Do you have any experience with filing the edge (not the angle) of the tumbler at the full cock notch? I attended the Dixon's Fair and got a paper on, and attended a class on lock tuning. How about replacing the sear spring with a lighter one?
 
No experience with filing a tumbler notch, all my Chambers flintlocks work well with just a little polishing. They have all had a mainspring lightly dragging on the lock plate but that is a very easy fix that goes along with the rest of the internal polishing.
 
Does everyone have problems installing L&R locks? Are there other's with fewer problems on installation? I don't know about these things but am curious about it.
 
Does everyone have problems installing L&R locks? Are there other's with fewer problems on installation? I don't know about these things but am curious about it.
Not “problems” per say, but they are not simple drop in replacements. I have done two, one each flint and percussion for Lyman stocks. Both required significant wood removal for the mainspring and workings to fit. Time and patience is all thats required to do a good job, and a bunch of lipstick, lol.
Walk
 
Does everyone have problems installing L&R locks? Are there other's with fewer problems on installation? I don't know about these things but am curious about it.
No issues with L&R locks on new builds. The problems are with their RPL or so called drop in replacement locks. Not talking about making room for the lock internals, rather the fact that the lock plates do not fit correctly and nor locate everything where it should be.
 
I’ve had good and not so good L&R’s. As for coil spring production locks, I have several TC flints, I shot one for 20 years, thousands of shots. Replace one frizzen in all that time. No internal parts. Several barrels, though. Very fast with minimal polishing/tuning. Even made a interchangable flint to percussion using a TC percussion lock in one heavy offhand rifle. Just notched the lock plate for a drum. Off the sticks, I’ve shot numerous possibles at 50 and several at 100yds with it. Very fast ignition, short throw and good spark. Great value. Try doing so before spending big money on a RPL lock. The money you save can get you a long way towards a decent barrel.
 
They are not listed as a "drop-in". They all require some work to the inlet.
Pete G. Obviously you didn’t read or understand my entire post, let alone this entire topic. The RPL lock is anything but drop in. My comment about these so called drop in replacement locks was to the fact that the lock plates do not fit correctly and nor locate everything where it should be. Wasn’t talking about the inletting requited in the stock mortise for internal lock parts. The RPL lockplate is not the same size as the factory mortise in the stock. It is larger in some areas and smaller in other areas, leaving gaps to fill. Installation is not a simple inletting task with these locks. Installing a lock in a blank stock with no precut mortise gives less grief. You only have to correct your mistakes.

I would be curious to hear about or see photographs of the RPL locks you have installed. Sounds like the ones you have purchased and installed were shaped different than the ones others and I have installed.

From the RPL product description - ‘This lock has thicker stronger internal springs and parts than the Thompson Center Arms lock. It requires deepening the lock mortise slightly, a few minutes of hand work‘

No issues with L&R locks on new builds. The problems are with their RPL or so called drop in replacement locks. Not talking about making room for the lock internals, rather the fact that the lock plates do not fit correctly and nor locate everything where it should be.
 
As these RPL locks are quite popular it would seem that L&R could or should retool there lock plates to be exactly the same as the lock they replace and adjust the internals accordingly for a proper fit.

It is stories like mine that make people shy away from buying one. If L&R actually made a drop in, people would be lined up to buy one.
 
I quoted directly FROM your post:confused:
They are not listed as a "drop-in". They all require some work to the inlet.
The problems are with their RPL or so called drop in replacement locks.
I stand corrected. You did quote two words from my post, “drop in”. You just neglected to also include the two word adjective so called (defined in the Cambridge Dictionary when used in English to mean ‘used to show that you think a word that is used to describe someone or something is not suitable or not correct) that I used before the words ‘drop in’. Easy mistake to make.

Still curious what your experiences have been installing RPL locks.
 
Surprisingly, the L&R replacement lock for the Pedersoli Frontier/Cabelas Blue Ridge/Hatfield is almost a drop in replacement. Some wood needs to be hogged our of the lock mortise to accommodate the larger flat spring, but all in all it is pretty much a drop in fit.
 
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