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Help needed designing .62 cal percussion rifle

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pamtnman

Hunt to Live
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Folks, your advice and assistance is welcome on a long simmering project.
The .62 caliber rifled barrel and stock wood (full stock or half) have been in my possession for five years, as different rifle designs went through my mind over this time. Due to the high heat, today was an "inside" day and I spent hours 'working' on this.
After many hours going through every old muzzleloader book and catalogue I have, the rifle plan went from flintlock to percussion. That is certain. Yep...made a whole lot of progress ha ha.
The plan is to have a powerful traditional rifle for bear, elk, and deer for Pennsylvania's early muzzleloader season, where both deer and bear can now be hunted concurrently. It should be both a stalking gun and quick on the snap shot, and an ambush gun capable of taking longer, carefully aimed shots. My regular rifle is a custom made .54 flintlock, and something more weather resistant and a lot more powerful and robust is desired. Hence the percussion lock.
But I do not know a darned thing about percussion locks, not really. So your help is welcome.
Here is what is already acquired: A 38" Colerain .62 caliber swamped gain twist rifled barrel, and nice curly maple full stock blank or curly sugar maple half stock blank.
Here is what is tentatively on the parts list:
Lock: Davis' Alex Henry percussion lock seems best, because of potential precision trigger adjustment. Want the strongest, fastest percussion lock that will least disturb the stock wood by requiring the inletting of the least amount of wood, so the stock is as strong as possible. Alex Henry lock design appears to fit most flush with barrel, disturb the least amount of wood.
Trigger: Davis single set trigger, adjustable if possible, or another single trigger honed to a 2.5-3# pull by the gunsmith.
Sights: Prefer rear fiber optic sight matched to a fiber optic front sight, like the matching Lyman set sold at Track of the Wolf, with a rugged folding tang or peep sight like the Lyman on the wrist. Is any of this even possible on a percussion rifle? Will the tang sight weaken the wrist? And what shape wrist should this gun have, pistol grip or straight or something in between?
Furniture should be German silver, but I cannot figure out the butt plate or trigger guard. Because old fashioned military style sling swivels would be really nice to have, the trigger guard should have enough metal in the bow for a sling swivel hole.
Any and all recommendations are welcome about all aspects, other than the barrel and the wood. This has been years in the imagination phase, and it is time to begin assembling the parts. Thank you!
 
Boomerang, I think you are right about this. The goal is something that puts function above form, but which is as true to original styles, or at least to the basic traditional look, as possible. In-lines with their plastic and stainless are not something I can bring myself to hunt with, and the early PA muzzleloader season is not flintlock only, so I might as well get a percussion rifle which can also be used in other states I hunt in. And it might as well be pretty, with nice curly maple.
 
Or you might consider an English percussion rifle. However the barrel for a plains rifle or English rifle should be tapered, not swamped. An early Henry, Lehman or Deringer plains rifle in percussion would be full stocked in maple and have a 62 caliber swamped barrel. Triggers could be single or double set. The furniture would be brass. Get Hanson's "The Plains Rifle Sketch Book" for more ideas.
 
Grenadier - THANK YOU. Exactly the advice needed. UPDATE: Eb@y can be my friend once in a while, and it was just now, as I found the Hanson book you suggested. For just $25 I will get a week's worth of entertaining and informative reading, which will also help me design an important part of my outdoor life for the rest of my hunting days. Thanks again!
 
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Boy, the Sketch book has gotten pricey since it went out of print. Cheapest price on Amazon is $22.
The one I saw on Amazon was $583...and then I poked around a bit and found it for forty bucks. Eb@y had one for $20 plus shipping, in addition to several priced much higher. The one for twenty bucks was purchased. Thanks again for this excellent advice. Somewhere between a plains rifle and the October Country English sporting rifle is what will work best. Pistol grip or straight....
 
I think you might be looking to make some sort of hybrid muzzleloader that doesn't match anything original. I think the closest thing would be some type of plains rifle with a full stock.

Boy, the Sketch book has gotten pricey since it went out of print. Cheapest price on Amazon is $22.

Guys, the Hanson book arrived and it is very helpful. Thank you for recommending it. On page 44, he describes and shows "Late Pennsylvania rifles made for the Western trade," and these are very close to what I had in mind. At Dixon's I met with a well known maker who said he felt comfortable making it. Picked up a percussion lock and a single trigger there. The project is on its way...
 
The “Little Bat” Garnier rifle by Folsom fits the bill. It is housed in a museum out west, and the curator there texted a bunch of photos of it while standing there looking at it. What a fabulous guy! He thought it would be neat to see it reproduced, which I will but at .62 instead of its original .54 or .58 caliber.
The lines on this Folsom gun are really attractive, and apparently Little Bat was unbelievably accurate with it, killing lots of elk, bison, deer, and some humans.
I’d post photos of it from my iPhone, but this forum isn’t wired that way. And I don’t have photobucket etc The Little Bat Folsom is pictured twice in the Hanson book (thank you again), and a similar rifle can be viewed on the old Julia’s site, where it was auctioned in 2015.
 
I have a 62 cal rifle built by RJ Renner using the Allen Box lock action
and it makes a real nice hunting rifle

image.jpg
 
Wait, I did it! Look, I am just not technically advanced, OK...but here is the "Little Bat" Garnier rifle in the Fort Robinson museum in Nebraska, at the top of the display. This is the gun I want made, in .62, instead of the .52 it is.
 

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I too just finished a half stock similar to Sheba's with a Pete Allen box lock action and Oregon .72 barrel. I love the look but it's a heck of a lot of rifle.
 
Looking forward to hearing how that baby shoots, the way it sounds and the slap down authority it delivers.
:)
I’m excited about this project. Just have to be sure the current gun maker is as excited about it as I am. Most of the parts are assembled, though I’m still working on finding that heavily arced butt plate. And yeah, you picked the right phrase. That .62 is slap down authority. Good one.
 
I too just finished a half stock similar to Sheba's with a Pete Allen box lock action and Oregon .72 barrel. I love the look but it's a heck of a lot of rifle.
A .72 rifle barrel is a serious thumper. What’s the powder charge, 200 grains FFG? That has to grab the shooter’s attention!
 
If we are talking here about the Charles E Hanson book, 'The Plains Rifle', I'd reckon that MY price beats you all. It was in a pile of old books at a yard sale where we lived in Berlin. The US Sector adjoined ours, of course, and we had a goodly number of friends in the US Military Mission - we were in the British version - BRIXMIS. We were visiting with a couple one fine Sunday afternoon and decided to take a stroll with our baby daughters, ours in a buggy, and theirs on a new bicycle, and around the corner was the yard sale - a family going home to USA. I 'rifled' through a stack of G&A - bought a decent pile for 50c - and then my eyes lit on the Hanson book. In VERY good condition, considering that even then it was almost twenty-five years old.

How much for that?

Gimme a dollar and we're good.

I'm looking at it now...great information, written by THE expert of his day.
 
My Renner has Forsyth rifling so it can supposedly use a high powder charge with round ball and not strip the rifling but it can also use a bullet if so desired.I normally use 100grains in it.I normally use a round ball in it
 

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