Here are some pictures of the Bedford I built using Pecatonica Rivers #3 curly maple.
It is not a reproduction but it is somewhat based on a rifle built by William Defibaugh.
His rifles often had 4 barrel pins as does mine.
Note, the Bedfords are very slender guns with a lot of drop at the heel of the stock. The comb of the stock is very straight and some folks say it looks like a hockey stick. Because of the drop of the butt, the rifles tend to raise their muzzle when they are fired. Perhaps that explains why the .45 and smaller calibers were popular with them. This rifle uses a 13/16" .45 caliber X 42" Green Mountain barrel to keep the recoil down and to maintain the slender look.
The slender shape is even apparent in the locks that most Bedfords have. They are about the same length as other locks but the height of them is very narrow.
The lock on this rifle is 5 7/16" long and .86" high.
Speaking of locks, some say that Bedford's were only made in percussion but in fact, there are some that were built as flintlocks. Mine is a convertible and it can use either lock.
(It is wearing its percussion lock in the picture but currently it has its flintlock mounted and the percussion lock is in my lap.)
The Bedford's are one of the rifles that used a full patchbox, well into the percussion era. The patchbox's usually have loops that are inlayed into the wood, making them one of the more difficult patchboxes to inlay.
If you want to pursue the Bedford as your choice of the gun to build I recommend buying the book, "The BEDFORD COUNTY RIFLE and Its Makers" by Calvin Hetrick. It is a 41 page paperback with many pictures and a lot of information about some of the more well known builders.
If you do choose to build a Bedford, I strongly suggest that you make it a Flintlock.
Flintlocks are less fussy about the alignment between the lock and the barrel.
These "kits" from the well known companies that sell/make them will usually take at least 150 hours of actual work to complete.
A good knowledge of filing, layout work, drilling and tapping as well as using chisels and a sharp Hobby Knife is needed to build these.
The lock is almost finished but it will require locating and drilling the screw holes for the lock screws. The rest of the cast parts are rough sandcastings that will need a lot of sanding and filing to make them presentable.
This is one of my earlier rifles and the width of the lock panel around the lock is wider than it should have been but I think I'll leave it alone.