How do you paste the link
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treen plate questions
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I just sent you a PT explaining it (I hope).
There might be others who don't know how to post a link so I copied the PT I sent to you and I'll post it here:
While I'm at it, this same "copy" and "paste" thing can be used to capture something that is written in a post. That's how I got the quote I just made.
To copy something that someone has written, if your on a computer, move the arrow (cursor) to the starting or ending word and press the LEFT mouse button down.
Now, while you keep holding the button down, drag the arrow across the words you want to copy. They will be highlighted, usually in a dark blue. Keep on moving the arrow over the text until you get to the start or end of what you want to copy and then release the left mouse button.
When you release the left mouse button the text will stay highlighted. Now, click on the right mouse button, select "copy" and you've captured it.
Then, you can use the right mouse button and the "Paste" option to put the text you copied into whatever your writing.
There might be others who don't know how to post a link so I copied the PT I sent to you and I'll post it here:
While I'm at it, this same "copy" and "paste" thing can be used to capture something that is written in a post. That's how I got the quote I just made.
To copy something that someone has written, if your on a computer, move the arrow (cursor) to the starting or ending word and press the LEFT mouse button down.
Now, while you keep holding the button down, drag the arrow across the words you want to copy. They will be highlighted, usually in a dark blue. Keep on moving the arrow over the text until you get to the start or end of what you want to copy and then release the left mouse button.
When you release the left mouse button the text will stay highlighted. Now, click on the right mouse button, select "copy" and you've captured it.
Then, you can use the right mouse button and the "Paste" option to put the text you copied into whatever your writing.
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Thanks, got your pm
Brokennock
Cannon
Nice. I like it. Has me thinking of carving out an oblong one, more like a trenches I guess. Can we see the "cutting board" side please?
smoothshooter
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Check out references for maintaining modern wooden cutting boards made buy the Boos company.
They sell two kinds of coatings. One is a butter that allows the wood to breathe, and the other is a sealer. The board we have from them is a quality product.
zimmerstutzen
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There is a food safe varnish type of finish referred to by turners as salad bowl finish. It is a commercial product under various names. It isn't very durable for use on a cutting surface. This is such a finish available at wood working stores: https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/oil-based-wood-bowl-finish. Amazon sells a Salad Bowl Finish under that name. Larger hardware stores may have it available, at least on line.
Other treatments range from pure mineral oil, walnut oil etc, to bees wax combinations. These latter products soak in and create a barrier to penetration by food residue, but never harden and do dry out and can be washed out of the wood by repeated soap and water washes.
Other treatments range from pure mineral oil, walnut oil etc, to bees wax combinations. These latter products soak in and create a barrier to penetration by food residue, but never harden and do dry out and can be washed out of the wood by repeated soap and water washes.
I'd use olive oil.
zimmerstutzen
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rancid city in a few months. Gives an acquired taste to foods too.
old ugly
40 Cal.
its just a flat side.
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old ugly
40 Cal.
zimmerstutzen
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Naturoil is oddly enough one of those products that jealously guards the MSDS info. What I read on line, is that is it a blend of mostly mineral oil, flax oil, orange oil and beeswax. I could not confirm that information for lack of an MSDS. A pint of USP mineral oil at the drug store is about $1.29. even less at Dollar Tree. I understand that beginners like to be sure and will go for a commercial preparation for the first projects to be sure of their efforts. I was the same way. Now I mix up several of my finishes in my shop. Mineral oil and beeswax, friction polish, French Polish, shellac, etc.
No it does not, REAL Olive Oil can easily last two years if stored properly. The Greeks used it to keep wine from going bad by pouring the oil on top of the wine in those Amphora's. Bowls are used lots so repeated oiling is normal.
In the US fake oil is extensive, mixed with lesser oils and Ex Virgin oil labeled that is not Ex Virgin.
zimmerstutzen
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From cutting board.com: "Please note that we do not recommend natural oils such as vegetable, corn, olive, peanut or walnut oil, as these are rich in fats that will eventually oxidize and go rancid, creating a foul smelling board"
Olive oil smells pretty bad when it goes. Since USP mineral oil costs less than a third of olive oil, why even use olive oil? Rendezvous gear is often used a few months a year and then stored away until next season. why risk it? Olive oil SEALED and STORED in a dark place is good for about 2 years after being bottled. If used on a cutting board or utensil, it is immediately exposed to air and subject to oxidation. So that two year period for PROPERLY STORED sealed bottled oil goes out the window immediately on application to the wood..
Olive oil smells pretty bad when it goes. Since USP mineral oil costs less than a third of olive oil, why even use olive oil? Rendezvous gear is often used a few months a year and then stored away until next season. why risk it? Olive oil SEALED and STORED in a dark place is good for about 2 years after being bottled. If used on a cutting board or utensil, it is immediately exposed to air and subject to oxidation. So that two year period for PROPERLY STORED sealed bottled oil goes out the window immediately on application to the wood..
Nyckname
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Of course that's a thing.
