Zoli Zouave Rear Sight Removal

I tried to remove the rear sight on my Remington Zoli Zouave. The screw that holds the sight to the barrel appears to be flat topped with 2 indentations. I used the pointed tips of a small pair of pliers, inserting the points into the holes. I was only able to turn the screw approximately 3/4 of a revolution, then it stopped. Is this normal?

No, they have a normal thread on them like any other screw/bolt. Regular screw, except for the flat top, and two holes for a "special tool". Should be no reason for it to stop.

Just put a punch in one of the holes and tap on it a little, and it should come right out.

The punch will ding up the holes a little but will get it done. There is a tool avaliable for original guns like the Springfields, etc. but it won't work with any reproduction I have ever run across. The hole spacing on the repros varies and none match the originals. Your screw will be metric, the originals were 10-32.

Over the course of many years working the NSSA Spring and Fall Nationals, I purchased three or four of the special spanner wrenches needed to screw in/unscrew the rear sight screws w/two holes in them. Like Hawkeye said, they only work on the screw they are made for and I had to take different screws along with me to actually test them on the tools, because the tools did not always work on the screw heads they were supposed to fit.

Inexpensive Snap Ring Pliers with different size tips that fit the holes, or filed to fit the holes, can be used to unscrew/screw in these rear sights most of the time.

Gus

Might want to put some penetrating oil on it, let it sit, then turn it back in, and out, and in a few times to free it up. "Should" loosen up and come right out.

Trep44 said:

I tried to remove the rear sight on my Remington Zoli Zouave. The screw that holds the sight to the barrel appears to be flat topped with 2 indentations. I used the pointed tips of a small pair of pliers, inserting the points into the holes. I was only able to turn the screw approximately 3/4 of a revolution, then it stopped. Is this normal?

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You can buy a wide, flat point screwdriver and file/stone the tip to fit the two holes almost exactly.
Then you will always have the right tool available if you ever need it again.

smoothshooter said:

You can buy a wide, flat point screwdriver and file/stone the tip to fit the two holes almost exactly.
Then you will always have the right tool available if you ever need it again.

Click to expand...

In the early 70's when I was going through a year and a half OJT/apprenticeship to become a NM Armorer in the Corps, this is exactly what I did with a wide blade "Grace" Gunsmith Screwdriver that didn't seem to fit the slot in any gun screw we came across. (I came from a woodworking background, but almost zero experience working metal. So I was looking for ways to develop my skills at hand filing metal.)

One of the "Special Tools" we made as OJT's/Apprentices was for the same kind of screw with two holes in the head, that held the stock liners in M14 stocks. However, the tool we made was rather weak because the pins were not hardened and we just drilled two holes in round stock at the correct difference from each other, put the pins in place and silver soldered them in place. Since many of those screws were so tight in the stocks, those pins quickly bent or wore out. I wanted a tool a more robust tool with hardened/annealed pins that would last much longer.

I was certainly no expert at hand filing or hardening/annealing metal at that time, but with a lot of patience, a good precision dial caliper, a torch and some case hardening compound; it wasn't that difficult to make a spanner wrench. Since that time, that wrench has taken out many dozens of even the most stubborn screws that were "rust welded" in place. I still have that tool almost 45 years later and it still works as good as it did when I made it.

So if the OP was inclined to make such a tool, he could reasonably expect it would last long after he probably would no longer shoot the Zouave Rifle musket.

Gus

I sprayed penetrating oil on the rear sight screw. Thought I would use a set punch to loosen. Once off, would it be acceptable to cut a screw driver slot?

Chuck

It isn't correct but no one would see the slot unless you had the long sight leaf raised. I wouldn't go to the trouble myself as a sight is something that is rarely if ever removed. I put a layer of epoxy on the sight before I install it, tighten it down and forget it. The only time they are removed is if the barrel needs to be relined. The reason for the epoxy is to keep water out from under the sights when I clean the barrels in a bucket of water.

I finally removed the sight with a center punch. I now see that the hold down screw head is very thin and doubt if I could successfully cut a slot.
Thanks.

hawkeye2 said:

I put a layer of epoxy on the sight before I install it, tighten it down and forget it. The only time they are removed is if the barrel needs to be relined. The reason for the epoxy is to keep water out from under the sights when I clean the barrels in a bucket of water.

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I would further suggest if one do that, one should use Mold Release on the Parts of the Rear Sight. That way, should one want or have to replace the sight blades, it is much easier to work on.

Gus

Artificer said:

I would further suggest if one do that, one should use Mold Release on the Parts of the Rear Sight. That way, should one want or have to replace the sight blades, it is much easier to work on.

Gus

Click to expand...

I only put the epoxy between the sight base and the barrel to seal that area and it also locks the screw in place so it won't come loose. No epoxy gets close to the leaves (the sight is similar to the 61 & 63 Springfield). If the sight needs to be removed heating it to about 500 degrees with a propane torch will destroy the epoxy's strength. You have brought up a good point though; one should be very careful where stray epoxy goes.

hawkeye2 said:

I only put the epoxy between the sight base and the barrel to seal that area and it also locks the screw in place so it won't come loose. No epoxy gets close to the leaves (the sight is similar to the 61 & 63 Springfield). If the sight needs to be removed heating it to about 500 degrees with a propane torch will destroy the epoxy's strength.

Click to expand...

I realize you aren't using epoxy around the leaves, but it sometimes or even often easier to work on the leaves with the Rear Sight separate from the barrel.

I've seen way too many people come up a the NSSA Nationals, who really buggered up the head of the Spanner Sight Screw trying to get it out after it was epoxied into place and they tried to remove it in camp, even when they had a propane torch. So at least that screw needs to be Mold Released when epoxying the rear sight in place. Personally, I use Mold Release on the bottom of the Rear Sight Base as well.

Gus

Just to mention. With screws with the 2 hole drive I look for piece of tubing of that diameter and file down the end of the tube leaving 2 bits projecting that fit the screw in question.