If I recall, that's the style with the center seam that goes between the first and second toe on most feet? Some patterns bring the seam up top with a pointier toe. The heavy leathers work ok on them if you keep that seam very flat. If not, it can bite. I've used a baseball style stitch that worked well, or a very fine seam with a welt worked ok also and might have lasted longer as the threads were protected more. Due to the basic shape of this style, the foot itself acts as the last and has to make it's shape with the leather. I draft a pattern for each foot and it eliminates much of this, but not all of it. That's the downfall of this pattern especially in a heavy leather. This is basically true of any center seam or pucker toe style in my experience. The heavier the leather, the more difficult the break in period. Wet them, wear them dry is best.
In my shop, the cost difference in leathers is negligible for moccasins. Labor on the hand sewn mocs is obviously more than anything I can machine sew and get away with. The seams that don't show can all be machine stitched for all but the most purist and no one would know any difference by looking. Saves some $$. I'm just practical that way when spending someone else's cash.
with the attached pattern. These are my own and very worn, one in brain tanned moose and one in commercial moose, maybe elk...can't remember! I've done this pattern for several customers as well. Traditional bow hunters and Native American dancers. Well, I tried several times to get a better photo here but this gives you an idea of how all those pleats come together in heavy leather. The farther back you bring the seam, the more deeply pleated it must be to take up the radius. At some point, someone puts a toe plug or vamp in there and it's different again. Much of the historical differences I have seen noted have to do with where this seam is placed and whether or not there is a toe plug and what size and shape it is. I tried this pattern as I wanted a one piece moc with the seam high enough to not rake my toes. The left one is the brain tanned moose and has stretched out and dried all wonky over the years. That particular tannage is like snot when wet. They work ok when it's dry and might breath a bit better when it's very hot. Note the dust/snow collar added at the top. The commercial chrome tanned on the right has held up really well and has been re-laced with new insoles several times. Those are about 25 years old. I did add some rubber grindage to the soles for daily use. Not entirely historically correct, but a nice addition that avoids slippage and some wet grass problems. So, that's my $.02 on using heavy leather in a patter with extremely gathered toe area. Yes, it can be done.
