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Pyrodex

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monkr

36 Cal.
Joined
Feb 3, 2010
Messages
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I have two black power revolver, one is a 1858 the other is a 1851 Navy Dlx Engraved .44 7 1/2" UI. Is it ok to shoot Hogdon Pyrodex P in them. I live in Zebulon and do not know where to get real black power.

Thanks for any advice
 
I've used Pyrodex p in all my bp guns for around 20 years. Works just fine. Just measure same by volume. As usual clean immediately.
 
thank you
Just a suggestion and it's my preference. Stay at low end on open top revolvers. Keeps the stress down on the base pin and frame. I have seen some of these pistols have wedge and base pin issues from shooting high end loads. 18 grains should be sufficient 20 max for a 44cal.. Some won't agree but that's my opinion.
 
Just a suggestion and it's my preference. Stay at low end on open top revolvers. Keeps the stress down on the base pin and frame. I have seen some of these pistols have wedge and base pin issues from shooting high end loads. 18 grains should be sufficient 20 max for a 44cal.. Some won't agree but that's my opinion.
thanks will do that
 
I see nothing wrong with Pyrodex in ypur revolvers. That was probably sound advice to keep the loads on the low side. Just remember to give them a good cleaning. The stuff works but it is corrosive.
 
I use pyrodex P. My pietta 58 remington NMA seems to love it, best load I found sofar is 35grains, shoots to point of aim.
 
Just a suggestion and it's my preference. Stay at low end on open top revolvers. Keeps the stress down on the base pin and frame. I have seen some of these pistols have wedge and base pin issues from shooting high end loads. 18 grains should be sufficient 20 max for a 44cal.. Some won't agree but that's my opinion.

I use 2 steel framed Uberti open tops, and shoot full-powered loads most of the time. After at least 1,000 shots thru each one, and probably more, they have not loosened up at all, as far as I can tell.
If they ever do, they can be repaired rather easily, by me or someone else.
If they can't, I will buy another one or two, and salvage the parts ( cylinder, screws, grips, internals, etc. ) from the stretched ones for spares.
The guns don't cost that much.
I don't expect my chainsaw, car, or lawnmower to last forever, either.
 
I use 2 steel framed Uberti open tops, and shoot full-powered loads most of the time. After at least 1,000 shots thru each one, and probably more, they have not loosened up at all, as far as I can tell.
If they ever do, they can be repaired rather easily, by me or someone else.
If they can't, I will buy another one or two, and salvage the parts ( cylinder, screws, grips, internals, etc. ) from the stretched ones for spares.
The guns don't cost that much.
I don't expect my chainsaw, car, or lawnmower to last forever, either.
"Just a suggestion and it's my preference". OK?
 
Nothing wrong with using Pyrodex in a C&B revolver. I have done so many times. I happen to use black powder but I get it in bulk so it's cheaper than Pyrodex. (Not everyone is so lucky.) As to the load, I start low, 18 to 20 grs, and increase the charge until I get the best accuracy. I've found Colt 1851, 1860, and Remington 1858 revolvers generally prefer a mid-level charge, about 25 grs. of 3F or Pyrodex in a 44 caliber gun. My Ruger Old Army does best with 30 to 35 grs. of 3F for some reason.

Jeff
 
Yep, I try to get as close to 40 grains of 3Fg or Pyrodex P. My 1860 Pieta Army likes heavier loads to shoot at POA to POI.
Yup, with my home cast 200 grain conicals, I cram 40gr in there under a lubed boolit, might be able to fit another grain or 2 even. Groups as well as my modern pistols and really puts on a smoke show. Round ball's are 35 max as they seem to lose accuracy at higher velocity. 30gr with a .454 round ball is the most accurate RB load I've found with more shooting time with the gun.
 
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