First Experience with Deer Stalker Flintlock

Hey All,

I tried out my new Lyman Deer Stalker Flintlock. Got about 45 minutes of time during an Easter visit. Being a complete flintlock newbie I managed to get 2 rounds off in that very short time. My main issue is getting the main charge to fire. There is a load of info here to peruse, and I'm certainly not looking for instant fixes. It will be a pleasure to get into it all. I have to say accuracy and shooting technique hasn't been a issue with me since I got into air gun practice at home. Here's my first and second shots ever with a flintlock at 40 and 120 yards, took naturally to the "follow through". An added bonus is I cast the 380 grain R. E. A. L. bullets too. Beginner's luck, but my buds were impressed!

Why did it take so long to get off only two shots? What issues were you having in getting the main charge to go off? What grnaulation of powder were you using, how much? What granulation of priming powder were you using and again how much? Was your flint crisp and sharp or worn and dull? Was the flint clamped tightly in the jaws of the cock, and perpendicular to the frizzen? Please enlighten us with more info...

As a piece of advice, I'd stick with shooting at 40 yards for a while, until you become proficient at getting good ignition. Then you can move further back later. IMO 120 yards should be max that you should be taking, but that's just me.

I was having problems with delayed ignition. I discovered (after reading here) using a pick through the touch hole to create a channel into the main charge. Makes a world of difference. Also, dress the flint so it throws a good shower of sparks. Lots of other tips to be found here. Good luck and that's some good shooting. Oh, and if you're using a BP sub, that could be a problem.

I shot a Deerstalker flint for a few years, and still do when my dad isn't using it. It's been a pretty dang good gun after a I sorted out a few things. Here's what helped mine most:

Use 4F powder in the pan (not too much, mine takes very little)
Use real hand knapped flints
Drill the vent liner to 1/16"
Polish the pan so it wipes dry easier
Shoot 3F real black powder as the main charge

After doing that, this gun is as reliable as any. Fires every time and is very quick to ignite.

As for a load, I use a .490 ball, .018 pillow ticking patch, and 70gr of 3F Goex.

Lbrown said:

I was having problems with delayed ignition. I discovered (after reading here) using a pick through the touch hole to create a channel into the main charge. Makes a world of difference. Also, dress the flint so it throws a good shower of sparks. Lots of other tips to be found here. Good luck and that's some good shooting. Oh, and if you're using a BP sub, that could be a problem.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the pointers. As it is all new to me I will work through the issues one at a time. The first item is the fact that the jaw screw would not hold the flint tight. I had a screw driver but this was not doing the trick. Checked out the posts here and made a tool out of a hex key, added the "T" handle and now I'm fat. Noticed the flint leather is PETA approved faux. I will replace that with a dead animal part soon. Also figured out that the flint should not touch the pan at the end of it's run. The pic shows where contact is first made with the frizzen. I tried RS powder, with get in the real stuff too.

ThumperJones said:

I shot a Deerstalker flint for a few years, and still do when my dad isn't using it. It's been a pretty dang good gun after a I sorted out a few things. Here's what helped mine most:

Use 4F powder in the pan (not too much, mine takes very little)
Use real hand knapped flints
Drill the vent liner to 1/16"
Polish the pan so it wipes dry easier
Shoot 3F real black powder as the main charge

After doing that, this gun is as reliable as any. Fires every time and is very quick to ignite.

As for a load, I use a .490 ball, .018 pillow ticking patch, and 70gr of 3F Goex.

Click to expand...

Thanks so much. It looks like you blazed a trail for me. I was already considering the vent liner and will address that next with your advice.

The R/S powder is your biggest problem. Flint requires real black

Yep, actually hard to believe you got 2 shots in 45 min with RS. You start loading 3f black powder and priming with same yer gonna be happy happy happy

Pete G said:

The R/S powder is your biggest problem. Flint requires real black

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Thanks!

I found a neat way to light up the barrel with battery operated LED's. Put one in the open vent hole.

Sawney Beane said:

Thanks so much. It looks like you blazed a trail for me. I was already considering the vent liner and will address that next with your advice.

Click to expand...

One more question. What to you think is the best way to polish the pan? The parts look cast. I'm thinking some fine emery paper wrapped around a dowel.

azmntman said:

Yep, actually hard to believe you got 2 shots in 45 min with RS. You start loading 3f and priming with same yer gonna be happy happy happy

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Are you using Pyrodex?

Honestly you don't need to polish the pan. I've heard many people swear by doing it, and others like myself who don't see any advantage at all.

Yes, definitely lose the Pyrodex and get some real black powder. You will notice the difference in ignition immediately.

I'm not using Pyrodex or any synthetic powder. The synthetics require far more heat to ignite the charge than real black powder such as GOEX, Scheutzen, Swiss, KIK, WANO, or Old Eynsford. It is surprising that you were able to get the two shots off.

Sidney Smith said:

Honestly you don't need to polish the pan. I've heard many people swear by doing it, and others like myself who don't see any advantage at all.

Yes, definitely lose the Pyrodex and get some real black powder. You will notice the difference in ignition immediately.

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My reasoning for polishing the pan is it's easier to wipe completely dry. Our humidity here is near 90% most of the year and after a shot the pan is dripping wet. Also easier to wipe a damp charge out in the rain. It helps, no it's not monumental, but I need all the help I can get I agree, not necessary for everyone.

Sawney Beane said:

Are you using Pyrodex?

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Pyrodex needs a temperature of at least 770°F to ignite. It also burns very slowly outside a gun barrel. Because of this it is a difficult powder to get it to fire in a flintlock and its slow burning outside the barrel makes it very poor for priming the pan.

Real black powder ignites at around 430°F and it explodes rather than just burning, even outside the barrel. That makes it the very best thing to prime the pan with.

When you replace that flint leather, be sure you have a hole in the center so that when it's wrapped around the back of the flint there is a space where the jaw-screw and the back of the flint actually touch. Some people think that this causes too much shock to the flint striking edge, but I've found with enough leather to properly grip the flint..., you get too much cushion if the entire rear of the flint is covered and none touches the screw.



Another way to do it is to punch two holes in the leather wrap, and put it into the flintlock jaws with the jaw screw going through the leather, the fold behind the screw...which help to keep you from losing the leather if the jaws become loose, and the flint drops out.



The leather wrap ends up with two holes when doing it by the second method


LD

Thanks for taking the time to post a detailed response!

You're welcome... "A picture is worth a thousand words..., " is only part of the quote, the rest is, "..., especially when Loyalist Dave is writing a description of what he's trying to explain."

LD

ThumperJones said:

I shot a Deerstalker flint for a few years, and still do when my dad isn't using it. It's been a pretty dang good gun after a I sorted out a few things. Here's what helped mine most:

Use 4F powder in the pan (not too much, mine takes very little)
Use real hand knapped flints
Drill the vent liner to 1/16"
Polish the pan so it wipes dry easier
Shoot 3F real black powder as the main charge

After doing that, this gun is as reliable as any. Fires every time and is very quick to ignite.

As for a load, I use a .490 ball, .018 pillow ticking patch, and 70gr of 3F Goex.

Click to expand...

Sound advice, my wife uses a .54 deer stalker and me a .54 Investarm Hawken ... enlarging the touch hole a bit is a very good idea... We use 75grs of 3f SWISS powder with 530 balls and it is a deadly combination ! Swiis does have a bit more power and somewhat cleaner than Goex !