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CVA Hawken crown damage

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Might be nice to know, I wouldn't want to buy from someone who mis-represented an item. That muzzle in now way was in "like new" condition, and the seller knew it. Couldn't miss it. No doubt the OP will be paying some shipping costs. Perhaps the seller was betting on the buyer not wanting to hassle with sending it back, and would keep it, but offers a refund so as not to get reported, or get a bad rating. That's how it looks to me, but I could be wrong. I hope I'm wrong.
 
Yeah I won't be naming them. They took it back without any problems. Next time I'll just have to ask more questions and get more pictures. It's just the way it is buying used firearms. Most of the time you win but sometimes you lose.
 
Got my refund back finally.

I found someone selling a never fired Investarm hawken rifle. I looked up reviews for them but didn't find much. Does anyone know how good the quality is for that brand?
 
Got my refund back finally.

I found someone selling a never fired Investarm hawken rifle. I looked up reviews for them but didn't find much. Does anyone know how good the quality is for that brand?

necro-, I have an Investarms/Lyman Great Plains rifle (cap lock), which is the equal in accuracy to my Chambers Isaac Haines (flintlock), both have RB twists. Best to shoulder one to see if it fits before you purchase.
 
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Got my refund back finally.

I found someone selling a never fired Investarm hawken rifle. I looked up reviews for them but didn't find much. Does anyone know how good the quality is for that brand?
I have an Investarm .50 Hawken Rifle. Was and is the first production muzzleloader I had ever bought. Is an excellent muzzleloader! Comparable to the TC Hawken but a bit heavier. Solid built gun.

Without getting into a debate on which is the better muzzleloader, Investarm Hawken vs TC Hawken, I definitely lean towards the Investarm. I own several TC’s but that IA muzzleloader shines. Quality, fit and finish is as every bit as good as the TC Hawken and can be had for less the price.

Respectfully, Cowboy
 
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recrowning a muzzle is the easiest part of any work on a muzzleloader. i have the brownell kit but you dont need that. take the barrel out of the stock, no need to send the gun back. put a round ball on the floor. put 220 emery paper over it about 3 layers. a foot on each side of the paper to hold it their. put the muzzle over the hump and rotate like your starting a fire with a fire stick. soon it will be smooth and even. then wrap a 220 emery paper over a flat file and smooth out the flat of the muzzle. it will become perfect.
 
Actually, I've been crowning muzzles since forever. As long as you use one of those people-powered hand-drills, you know, looks like a crank, and you can find them at garage sales often, you can use a router bit, which come in many shapes and sizes. Just use lots of oil. It's way faster and less labor intensive than all the sand paper methods, or ball and grinding/lapping compound methods, etc. After you make your cut, which will come out nice and smooth, then put your emery paper between the bit and the muzzle, work it over a bit and SHAZAM you have a really nice cut muzzle crown. Then you can work it over with the paper and your thumb to get the last of the sharp edges. And, the barrel does not have to be removed to do it.
 
They work great...no "chatter" for sure. Just takes a somewhat good eye to keep it straight, but even so, they pretty much "self center", and follow the bore, one won't get an off-center crown, unless one really tried, or was really drunk.

One "trick" is to have a person stand off to the side, and tell the "drill operator" if it's going into the muzzle straight as far as up/down, vertical, and then the driller concentrates on keeping it straight left and right. With practice, that's not even needed.

But I do like your "fire-stick" method. That would be great for a touch up. The router bit method I would use for a freshly cut barrel, or a barrel with extensive/severe damage, as in the OP. Although it works fine for a light touch up also.
 
I’ve only done a couple of crowns, but I simply used a dremel with a cone stone and followed with polishing by using a round knife sharpening steel tip rolled in the flats of my hands (like a fire stick). Never on a muzzleloader however.
Walk
 
Yes "chatter" from a countersink. I silver solder a ball bearing on a rod and use grinding compound to 600 grit by hand to crown. I only go to the grooves and remove any burrs. There is no need to inset a crown unless you keep dropping a gun on concrete.
 
Had it just been a crown, I would have probably fixed it, but I have built a number of guns. ANY rust in the barrel would be a deal breaker for me, you did the right thing by sending it back.
 
thanks, i have one of those hand powered old type drills.
Use that with an abrasive die grinding ball. The ball will centre nicely in the bore, and as you grind slowly, there is little chance of messing it up. I have a 4/4 inch ball. Usually only takes a few minutes to grind off the small amount you need to get rid of. If you try to get fancy and use a power drill, you run the risk of getting the crown off centre, because the ball will want to climb out of the hole. You can practice on a piece of scrap with a hole drilled through.
 
Yeah, looks bad but fixable. But SHOOT IT FIRST. I've see guns with horrible looking crowns that will shoot better than you can hold.
 
I understand that it could of been fixed but It wasn't disclosed when I bought it. I've had modern firearms with damaged crowns and it destroyed the accuracy. It also had a decent amount of rust in the barrel and could of had some pitting too.

I didn't end up getting that investarms hawken. It got sold before I could buy it. Had some home repair problem come up and had to put off looking for another one for right now anyway.
 
Nothing lossed when it comes to the knowledge gained by all the great replies shared in this thread my friend.

Good luck and God Bless!

Respectfully, Cowboy
Yeah I have definitely learned a thing a two from everyone here. Thanks everyone!
 
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