New 1851 Pietta Yank snub nose just arrived!!!!

Well Dixie Gun Works finally came through and shipped the revolver I ordered last month and UPS just delivered it. Now I’ve got 2 NMA 1858 Remingtons and 1 1851 Yank snub nose Colt reproduction revolvers, now I think there’s only 2 or 3 more black powder revolvers revolvers that I’d like to get before I start collecting long guns. If anyone has any pointers on how to “slick up” the 1851 snub nose I’d appreciate the information.

Looks good.

I do a little fluff and buff on all my Pietta Colt revolvers using the following treatises:
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_One.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two.pdf

I mostly fit the bolt to the locking notches on the cylinder. I do this by swiping the bolt on some 600 grit black wet/dry sandpaper. Testing fit of the bolt head in each cylinder notch for tightness.

For shooting my Colts, I put a dollop of bore butter on the arbor and find I can shoot all week.

drobs said:

Looks good.

I do a little fluff and buff on all my Pietta Colt revolvers using the following treatises:
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_One.pdf
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two.pdf

I mostly fit the bolt to the locking notches on the cylinder. I do this by swiping the bolt on some 600 grit black wet/dry sandpaper. Testing fit of the bolt head in each cylinder notch for tightness.

For shooting my Colts, I put a dollop of bore butter on the arbor and find I can shoot all week.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the links.

Years ago for one of the CAS magazines I wrote an article about getting into Cowboy Action Shooting on a very small budget. So I bought 4 "Confederate Navy Brass Framed Colt" revolvers in .44. I got some spare cylinders too. They were going for $90 per revolver (iirc) from Pietta, and a spare cylinder cost $25. So I wanted two for shooting, one as a spare, and a full set of spare parts, SO....I turned the spare parts gun into a snubbie for side matches. I basically got two full sized revolvers, all the spare parts, and a snub nosed for a side match for the cost of a Uberti cartridge revolver. They shot good too. Now mine didn't have the nice bird's-head grip on the OP's...., fancy loading tool too.

I just used to pre-load a cylinder or two with one of the full sized revolvers, then put it in the box, and used it when the time came on the snubbie.

LD

OF
Here are 2 of my stubbies. Both have 3" barrels .One is a 44 cal and has a 1860 barrel .The grips need finishing .The other is a 36 cal and all it needs is the loading port opened up more . Found the holsters in Fredericksburg Texas trade days for $50 each .Nice leather work .
DL

Desperate Lee said:

OF
Here are 2 of my stubbies. Both have 3" barrels .One is a 44 cal and has a 1860 barrel .The grips need finishing .The other is a 36 cal and all it needs is the loading port opened up more . Found the holsters in Fredericksburg Texas trade days for $50 each .Nice leather work .
DLView attachment 7213 View attachment 7214 View attachment 7215

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Very nice. I’m considering getting a 1851 confederate navy .44 from Cabela’s and cutting the barrel down on it myself.

The 44 is a CVA kit gun I bought back in my youth. I actually bought 2 of these. I cut the other down to 4" and I haven't finished it yet. I also have another 36 steel frame that I plan on putting my 38 S&W convertible cylinder in and building a 5" or 6" carry gun. Not in a hurry and haven't decided yet. Right now I am building single shot 45's.
DL

Well I’ve had my new snub nose revolver from Dixie Gun Works for all of 3 days, haven’t even shot it yet and come to find out that the front sight (which is a small brass bead) is very loose and on the verge of coming out. Guess I’ll have to give Dixie Gun Works a call tomorrow and see if they will fix the problem.

Chaco24 said:

View attachment 7083 View attachment 7084 View attachment 7085 View attachment 7086 View attachment 7087 View attachment 7088 View attachment 7089 Well Dixie Gun Works finally came through and shipped the revolver I ordered last month and UPS just delivered it. Now I’ve got 2 NMA 1858 Remingtons and 1 1851 Yank snub nose Colt reproduction revolvers, now I think there’s only 2 or 3 more black powder revolvers revolvers that I’d like to get before I start collecting long guns. If anyone has any pointers on how to “slick up” the 1851 snub nose I’d appreciate the information.

Click to expand...

Do you just buy them to look at or do you shoot them?

8 BORE said:

Do you just buy them to look at or do you shoot them?

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I shoot them

Chaco24 said:

I shoot them

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Good

Amen brother. Shoot them.

I’ve noticed that when I’m shooting the snub nose that the screw inline with the trigger backs out significantly so that I have to stop shooting and screw it back in. Can anyone tell me why this is happening and how to fix it??? I just got this revolver last weekend and this is my first time shooting it & it’s brand spanking new.

Been a Colt style revolver for ages. Screws backing out is the norm, tightening them also the norm.

Lotza things have been tryed but ... for some reason they keep working lose.

Just do not use red locktight. A spot of blue will help some but make sure you do not use anything stronger. NEVER use green !!!!!!!

If you want a lighter hammer draw, disassemble pistol and cut the center out of the hammer spring with a Dremel tool. Begin about 2 to 2 1/2 inches from the bottom of the spring and stop when you get to 2 to 2 1/2 inches from the top of the spring. I did that for my Pietta 1860 Army and the hammer draw is quite nice and it will still pop a cap. To get a lighter trigger pull, disassemble pistol and take out the trigger/bolt spring. Using some light sandpaper thin the trigger spring portion of the double (flat) spring. Don't take off too much or you will be left with a hair trigger. Ask me how I know this. My Pietta 1860 Army now has a hair trigger!