Planning a Rifle :)

BHB,
It may have been some articles in either muzzleloader or muzzleblasts. Peter Alexander used to do lots of building articles in Muzzleloader.
It's true...that the higher the pivot more leverage but there are other considerations as well....that being the distance of the pivot from the sear...not just the height.
For the Bivins style trigger shown...you can pin it in the wood, leave or grind off the ears. I may use that style. I may make a trigger and a plate. I'm not sure yet.

Another factor just as important, maybe more than trigger axis is having a well tuned lock.

A lock can be tuned to have a really good unset trigger pull with set triggers. There's no need to have a miserable unset trigger pull with set triggers. IMHO you still need a good unset hunting trigger.
It does not need to be as crisp as a simple trigger but it's still nice to have a good trigger un set.

Normally I would wait until I have results but...I'm amazed right now!
The scale is right..my grid is right. I thought it was too small. I sketched out the Buttpate and did most of the comb and some of the toe line. The BP fits perfectly..the scale is right but.....

Oh my goodness I'm just amazed! With just that little bit drawn out, this rifle is nothing like the photo. There is nothing big about her. Comfortably Numb was right. There's nothing big about it. She's going to be a little sweetheart.

keep us posted and remember if you cant buy it make it. its not rocket science, just time space and determination

There's a thing called a proportion wheel we used to use in printing before computers started doing things for us. I havent been involved in printing for a long time so I have no idea of the wheels availability today.

The wheel lets you set the size you have to start with and the size you want and it will tell you how much to enlarge or reduce a picture. It could be very useful for your project. With the info you could easily get a basic image handling computer program to help you print the correct size, or free hand a drawing.

Maybe it's over kill but a pantograph can help scale drawings.

Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr
Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr
Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr
Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr

Somethings not right, it's too stubby. Likely it's a 16th here and a 16th there. There were lots of shadows on the photo so that might be part of it. I did get a lot accomplished and I have more thoughts but those will have to wait.
It's bed time....

BlackHillsBob said:

i read a article once on triggers like yours. the article said this, the higher the pivot point the easier it set the lock off. the lower the pivot point the harder to set the lock off. why no use the base and make your own trigger with a high pivot point. dont ask me where i read the article, dont remember but i remember the article. it might be easy to say because i know how to high temp silver solder well but it would be possible to make a better trigger like that than you can buy.

Click to expand...

It's just a whole lot easier to pin the trigger in the wood. It's how 98% of the old KY rifles were done. I have seen these shouldered trigger guards mostly on British shotguns and rifles, not American stuff.

Most photos distort the length, the overall shot especially so. Adjust your drawing accordingly.