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Cylinder cleaning???

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It must have been a larger can or your Dad used it very sparingly to have lasted that long a time.Its been a few years since anything cost $0.29. That would be difficult to explain to the grandkids, even when that can was sold at Walgrens they still made a profit off if it.
 
No it's a small can. Where you and I buy one of what we need, he would buy 6 so he did not run out It got worse when he moved to the ranch, it was a good trip to town.
 
I like the 6 cans(note, they come in a plastic container these days). I keep one on my workbench, one in the garage, my wife has one in here sewing room, and I have one in the side pocket in my truck. One would be amazed how often it comes in handy. I use it very sparingly so it lasts a long time.
 
I had flash rust after hot soapy water and dry time in front of the wood stove. Now I always use WD-40 Specialist after the water to get it all out; no more flash rust.
 
Hot water promotes flash rust. Placing it in front of a wood stoves accelerates the flash rust.

Use tepid water and allow it to dry at room temperature, then use WD-40 Specialist. Folks here have spoken well of it.
 
Some use hot soapy water, some use cold soapy water. Enlighten me , is one of the purposes of hot or warm water to heat up the metal which in turn speeds up the evaporation process or is it used as a "grease cutter". Or is it much like cold water would be, to wash out or dilute the salts.I ask this question to help further along the guy who opened this thread on cylinder cleaning.
 
Hot water accelerates the rusting process (flash rust), pure and simple. You can remove any water from the metal with either alcohol or WD40.

Tepid water will remove and dilute the salts. Water temperature has nothing to do with dilution/removal of salts. If you are removing grease, as in washing dishes, increased water temperate does help.

Most line shooters will clean their guns at the end of the day sitting at the range while visiting. They do not use hot water, there is no reason for it.

Now, let the fight begin from hot water users.
 
The way that I clean my cylinders after shooting is with the MAP mixture. I pour about a 1/4 cup of the mixture in a small container.

I start by placing the cylinder chamber openings down on a cookie sheet to catch the liquid. I start by using an eye-dropper to dribble the MAP mixture over the back of the cylinder. Unless I've shot the revolver a lot, the nipples remain in the cylinder.

A generous amount of white lithium grease is on the threads. Then I take a tooth brush and clean the back of the cylinder with nipples in place. The MAP mixture usually gets all the fouling off. Then I take a pipe cleaner soaked with MAP to get inside the nipples. Whenever the end of the pipe cleaner gets dirty, I cut it off and start another nipple with a clean end.

The process is repeated till the back of the cylinder is clean.

Then I twist the corner of a disposable napkin or paper towel and dip it in the mixture.

The wet twisted end is inserted in the chamber mouth. The napkin/paper towel is pushed and twisted in the chamber, pulled out and either tossed away or the other end is dunked in the MAP. The process is repeated with all the cylinders until the napkin/paper towel comes out clean.

Unless I've shot the revolver a lot, I leave the nipples in place. I clean the cylinder with the nipples in place and also use a q-tip soaked in the MAP to help clean the base of the nipples while they are still in the cylinder.

The outside of the cylinder is cleaned with the napkin/paper towel and dried off. I use my air compressor to blow out the chambers and dry everything out.

After it's dried, I apply Ballistol on everything. I've never had any rust or corrosion using this method.
 
What does MAP stand for. Thanks
Murphy's Oil Soap - Alcohol - Peroxide. Mix in three equal parts. Store in dark container away from light because of the peroxide.

I've been using this stuff for over 30 years. Use it like you would a solvent for a firearm that burns smokeless powder. Use it till the patches come out clean, then dry and oil.

I haven't used hot soapy water since I became a MAP convert.
 
Murphy's Oil Soap - Alcohol - Peroxide. Mix in three equal parts. Store in dark container away from light because of the peroxide.

I've been using this stuff for over 30 years. Use it like you would a solvent for a firearm that burns smokeless powder. Use it till the patches come out clean, then dry and oil.

I haven't used hot soapy water since I became a MAP convert.

Thanks, I sure of know that. Hey you buy thoses howdah yet??
 
Not familiar with MAP. It sounds like it would and does work, However I've heard that the peroxide if left on too long can damage blueing.
 
Not familiar with MAP. It sounds like it would and does work, However I've heard that the peroxide if left on too long can damage blueing.
I've not had a problem with it. I get the metal surfaces completely dry then oil everything. There is not a speck of rust on any of my guns.

The other cleaner that I'm impressed with is the T17 foaming bore cleaner. I got a couple of friends a couple of '58 Remingtons for Christmas.

Since they were new to black powder shooting I got them each a can of this stuff as I have seen it work before. It's more expensive than MAP but works just as well.

Just spray it on, let it sit for about 15-20 minutes. Then come back and wipe everything off.

https://accessories.tcarms.com/product/t17-foaming-bore-cleaner-2/

I haven't tried it myself but I ran across some YouTube videos in which they cleaned the gun with a mixture of Ballistol and water. Since I got a lot of MAP, I'll use that up first. Besides, the MAP may still be cheaper than Ballistol even though I use the latter to oil the gun.
 
Sounds like it would be the right kind of stuff in a spray bottle. Are any of the ingredients, specifically peroxide, harmful to the O ring or misting mechanism of the bottle? I've used a vinegar based weed killer in a spray bottle and after a few uses the sprayer ceases to work.
 
Sounds like it would be the right kind of stuff in a spray bottle. Are any of the ingredients, specifically peroxide, harmful to the O ring or misting mechanism of the bottle? I've used a vinegar based weed killer in a spray bottle and after a few uses the sprayer ceases to work.

It would be my guess that there isn't anything wrong with any of the ingredients with respect to rubber. Like I said, it's only a guess but when you think about it these ingredients are stored in plastic bottles without any problem.

I like the idea of the spray bottle.
 
"I haven't tried it myself but I ran across some YouTube videos in which they cleaned the gun with a mixture of Ballistol and water. Since I got a lot of MAP, I'll use that up first. Besides, the MAP may still be cheaper than Ballistol even though I use the latter to oil the gun"

That sir, is the poorest recommendation that I have ever seen for a product that I have ever seen.
 
"I haven't tried it myself but I ran across some YouTube videos in which they cleaned the gun with a mixture of Ballistol and water. Since I got a lot of MAP, I'll use that up first. Besides, the MAP may still be cheaper than Ballistol even though I use the latter to oil the gun"

That sir, is the poorest recommendation that I have ever seen for a product that I have ever seen.
It wasn't necessarily a recommendation for the Ballistol/water mixture. I was just throwing it out there for someone to consider.
 
I only shoot real black powder out of the variety of pistols, rifles, and smooth bore guns, and I (like most) have tried a wide range of cleaners. I also invariably return to Birchwood Casey No.77 cleaner and Barricade for storage.
For some reason, I have yet to try MAP. My question is - what kind of alcohol is used?
Is it denatured?
Is it isopropyl, and if so, which dilution?
 
I only shoot real black powder out of the variety of pistols, rifles, and smooth bore guns, and I (like most) have tried a wide range of cleaners. I also invariably return to Birchwood Casey No.77 cleaner and Barricade for storage.
For some reason, I have yet to try MAP. My question is - what kind of alcohol is used?
Is it denatured?
Is it isopropyl, and if so, which dilution?

I use the isopropyl 93% if I recall correctly. Whatever it is, I always pick the one off the shelf with the highest alcohol content.
 
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