Extending flint life

Once upon a time, I would shoot a new flint until until it became dulled and failed to make sparks, then replace it with a new one. Re-touching the edge with the heel of the frizzen works as a field expedient but the effect doesn't last very long for me. If much shooting is done, it doesn't take long to go though quite a few new flints.

Nowadays I remove the flint after 12 - 15 shots and reestablish a sharp uniform edge across the entire width of the flint using a flint knapping pressure flaking tool. This lets me remove tiny flakes precisely where needed, the flint never gets dull to the point of failure and its use life is greatly extended.

The pressure flaking tool can be made from an antler tine or there are commercially available copper flakers available.

Video doesn't seem to be there, Tom. But I get the idea.

Cruzatte said:

Video doesn't seem to be there, Tom. But I get the idea.

Click to expand...

Hmm...Made a change in the settings. Please try it now.

Bingo!

I also pressure flake. But I use a deer antler with a piece of copper wire stuck in the end. I also don't take the flint from the cock just knap it in the jaws.

Jerry

I've always been a "tapper" with the flint still in the cock. Never could get the pressure flaking to work. I'll study your video thoroughly and try again.

hanshi said:

I've always been a "tapper" with the flint still in the cock. Never could get the pressure flaking to work. I'll study your video thoroughly and try again.

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A stiff under pad and sharp pointed antler or copper rod tip are the secret to pressure flaking a gun flint. A sharp pointed, copper pressure flaker, is easier to use. I use both,the latter is faster and more precise for a gun flint especially if done while still in the cock. I back the cock mounted flint, for pressure flaking, with a pop cycle stick over my finger.

I just carry a brass rod and freshen the flint if it feels dull or is reluctant to spark between shots.

jackley said:

I also pressure flake. But I use a deer antler with a piece of copper wire stuck in the end. I also don't take the flint from the cock just knap it in the jaws.

Jerry

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I tap also but am super careful about supporting the hammer/cock when tapping so as to avoid pressure and possible damage to the tumbler, sear, etc.

Rifleman1776 said:

I tap also but am super careful about supporting the hammer/cock when tapping so as to avoid pressure and possible damage to the tumbler, sear, etc.

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Me, too. Not doing this can damage the lock.

I only shoot on the range. I found - some time ago - that a cheap diamond file can extend flint life even more. I touch up the flint with the diamond file a few times before I start with knapping. It 's easier on the frizzen also ... Of course you can not use a diamond file in a re-enacting setting.

This thread has definitely caught my interest. Also a range shooter and don't give a hoot about HC issues. Please help me understand the process of using a diamond file on a flint.
Here's what I'm currently doing, as are most of us I suspect:
As my flints wear, I typically use a small tool with a narrow 90 degree shoulder on it, along with a small brass hammer. The tool is placed against the dull edge of the flint while still in the lock. Tapping the top of the tool lightly causes small flakes of flint to break off the bottom of the rock thereby leaving a significantly sharper edge. As I repeat this process on a given flint, the leading edge thickens and eventually cannot be refreshed with the "light" treatment.
Can this thickened edge be addressed and thinned downed to a useful level once again with these diamond files..??
Thanks.

Don Steele said:

This thread has definitely caught my interest. Also a range shooter and don't give a hoot about HC issues. Please help me understand the process of using a diamond file on a flint.
Here's what I'm currently doing, as are most of us I suspect:
As my flints wear, I typically use a small tool with a narrow 90 degree shoulder on it, along with a small brass hammer. The tool is placed against the dull edge of the flint while still in the lock. Tapping the top of the tool lightly causes small flakes of flint to break off the bottom of the rock thereby leaving a significantly sharper edge. As I repeat this process on a given flint, the leading edge thickens and eventually cannot be refreshed with the "light" treatment.
Can this thickened edge be addressed and thinned downed to a useful level once again with these diamond files..??
Thanks.

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I have found when the leading edge gets to thick to pressure flake they can be ground down with a green wheel in a bench grinder. Make sure to where eye protection and a good dust mask.

So you are "breaking" the chips off the underside of the flint as it would sit in the cock?

Flints can be installed bevel up or bevel down in the cock. I take flake off the flat side of the flint. Same knapping principle as flaking below mid-line on a pre-form. Its easier to take off clean flakes in the direction of lesser mass.

Sparkitoff said:

So you are "breaking" the chips off the underside of the flint as it would sit in the cock?

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Yes.
I’m not a skilled flintknapper. When I tap along the edge, from the top side, the tiny flakes are coming off the underside.
Someone who is skilled might have a better explanation.

Don Steele said:

This thread has definitely caught my interest. Also a range shooter and don't give a hoot about HC issues. Please help me understand the process of using a diamond file on a flint.
Here's what I'm currently doing, as are most of us I suspect:
As my flints wear, I typically use a small tool with a narrow 90 degree shoulder on it, along with a small brass hammer. The tool is placed against the dull edge of the flint while still in the lock. Tapping the top of the tool lightly causes small flakes of flint to break off the bottom of the rock thereby leaving a significantly sharper edge. As I repeat this process on a given flint, the leading edge thickens and eventually cannot be refreshed with the "light" treatment.
Can this thickened edge be addressed and thinned downed to a useful level once again with these diamond files..??
Thanks.

Click to expand...

Yes it can, but I do not the flint deteriorate to the point it will actually not work at all. When I have a flash in the pan, I touch up the flint with the file ... I pull the lock into half cock - make sure the touch hole is blocked, and then make a number of strokes over the width of the flint - underside and upper ... You will see that a fine powder comes of and the flint is sharpened more evenly then when you knap it. Pick a file that is medium coarse... I put a pict. underneath...

By the way, the little tool you mention, I use it to, but only at the point that the diamond file is no longer effective. That happens if you make the cutting angle of the flint to large to scrape effectively some hot iron from the frizzen... A flint's edge is like a chisel ... the finer the edge angle is the sharper the flint is ... It's a bit hard to explain, but I hope my explanation makes it clear... You should try it - such a file is dirt cheap, and I'm sure I already earned my money back by the extend to which my flints last longer!

Other than knapping, I have found a additional way of making flints last longer. On my flints I apply a heathy dap of JB weld to the top of the flint. Once dry, I snugly clamp the flint in a portable vise and by using a disc sander in my drill press I flatten out the JB weld. I use leather to hold the flint and by having the top and bottom of the flint flat they really stay put. Not pc correct but I have been getting longer life out of the flints. My best guess would be I’m getting 100 shots six out of ten flints.

Don Steele said:

Yes.
I’m not a skilled flintknapper. When I tap along the edge, from the top side, the tiny flakes are coming off the underside.
Someone who is skilled might have a better explanation.

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In flint knapping all course reduction is accomplished with percussion flaking in one form or another but all fine and finish work is done with pressure flaking because it affords far more control. Gun flints are all of the size and shape to best benefit from pressure flaking.
I did a video a couple of years ago on here showing the making of gun flints and the use of an easily made pressure flaker that should help folks in the right direction.