Correct ramrod fitting(s)?

Baxter · Jan 9, 2019

I am going to replace the ramrod on my custom-built early Lancaster. The builder-supplied ramrod has a wood-grain pattern that I am not sure will stand up for safe use. I will be ordering a ramrod from Log Cabin (Ohio) with one fitted and pinned end with 10-32 threads. The question is: What is HC/PC for the other/muzzle end of the rod? Bare wood? Thanks for any help.

Stumpkiller · Jan 9, 2019

Depends. I have seen rammers with only wood on both ends that may-or-may not have been original to the firearm.

I have the smaller (inside) end untipped (just wood) in my somewhat authentic flintlock rifle, but my fowler has the larger end wood and the tip on the small (inside) end.

Capt. Jas. · Jan 9, 2019

I prefer the threaded tup inside the ramrod hole and a larger wood rammer end at the muzzle.

Baxter · Jan 9, 2019

Stumpkiller said:
Depends. I have seen rammers with only wood on both ends that may-or-may not have been original to the firearm.

I have the smaller (inside) end untipped (just wood) in my somewhat authentic flintlocks.

Thanks Stumpkiller. I like your method. "Wood on both ends." How would a ball be pulled? Would have to be shot out, or never, ever dry-balled?

Baxter · Jan 9, 2019

Capt. Jas. said:
I prefer the threaded tup inside the ramrod hole and a larger wood rammer end at the muzzle.

Thanks. I like this style of ramrod but I believe that the ramrod I will receive will be of uniform 3/8" diameter throughout its length and I do not have the ability to "build" my own rod.

Artificer · Jan 9, 2019

Scraping or even sanding the rod by hand to a tapered end is something most folks can do, if they take their time.

You may be interested in this thread on original ramrod tips/accessorizes.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/ramrod-accessories.109508/

Gus

Stumpkiller · Jan 9, 2019

Baxter said:
Thanks Stumpkiller. I like your method. "Wood on both ends." How would a ball be pulled? Would have to be shot out, or never, ever dry-balled?

Good question. I have wondered that as well. Patience and as much as you can trickle in from the vent for the first "poof" to gain some space then repeat.

jackley · Jan 9, 2019

Here's a couple ramrod ends I made, the one on the right is made from sheet steel and is brazed as is the originals, it is a tapered rod and bear wood on the ramming end. The one left is a brass one I turned on the lathe. The tow worms I made to fit these ends. I haven't got to the ball puller yet.
There is a supplier that has the tapered ends for sale but can't think of who it is right now. It will come to me in the middle of the night.

Jerry

Baxter · Jan 9, 2019

jackley said:
Here's a couple ramrod ends I made, the one on the right is made from sheet steel and is brazed as is the originals, it is a tapered rod and bear wood on the ramming end. The one left is a brass one I turned on the lathe. The tow worms I made to fit these ends. I haven't got to the ball puller yet.
There is a supplier that has the tapered ends for sale but can't think of who it is right now. It will come to me in the middle of the night.View attachment 2819Jerry

Thanks Jackley. Nice work! Sleep well tonight; I'll be awaiting the revelation.

Baxter · Jan 9, 2019

Artificer said:
Scraping or even sanding the rod by hand to a tapered end is something most folks can do, if they take their time.

You may be interested in this thread on original ramrod tips/accessorizes.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/ramrod-accessories.109508/

Gus

Thanks Gus. Your post caused me to investigate/read an earlier string, Woodrunner's Diary and the Callahan Bagmold site, as well as to add to my bookmarks. Now, I see many possibilities and I am going to hold off on my order and consider just what I want this hickory stick to end up being.

jackley · Jan 9, 2019

Baxter said:
Thanks Jackley. Nice work! Sleep well tonight; I'll be awaiting the revelation.

Won't lose any sleep tonight. Cabin Creek Muzzle loading is where there at.
Had to show you my two also.

Jerry

Baxter · Jan 9, 2019

jackley said:
View attachment 2821
Won't lose any sleep tonight. Cabin Creek Muzzle loading is where there at.
Had to show you my two also.

Jerry[/QUOTE

Thanks much for the great photo! Beautiful creatures and working ones at that! My avatar is Phoebe, 5 years of age and still a puppy; loves the MN winters and snow and grins a lot.

I'll look at Cabin Creek. Thanks.

Black Hand · Jan 9, 2019

Baxter said:
I am going to replace the ramrod on my custom-built early Lancaster. The builder-supplied ramrod has a wood-grain pattern that I am not sure will stand up for safe use. I will be ordering a ramrod from Log Cabin (Ohio) with one fitted and pinned end with 10-32 threads. The question is: What is HC/PC for the other/muzzle end of the rod? Bare wood? Thanks for any help.

Replace your rammer with the next size up so you can create a tapered rod (can be tapered with nothing more than a knife used as a scraper). Nothing is PC for either end of the rod as is a tapered & threaded end or some sort of tip (seems to depend on the type of gun). I put the threaded end I made on the small end that goes into the stock and left the other end fat (wood) for the rod I made for my rifle.

RonT · Jan 9, 2019

A tip for scraping, ....... Draw concentric pencil lines around the rod ~ 3-4" apart, scrape them off as you work up/down the rod. Scraping more lines in any area creates a taper.
Cheers,
R

Stumpkiller · Jan 9, 2019

A razor plane works as well. I tape the last 10" of my wood shaft arrows from 11/32" down to 5/16". It's a bit of work but they recover faster when released and penetrate better.

One method I saw somewhere was to clamp a pair of scissors open about 60 degrees in a vice and draw the rod through the "V"

Baxter · Jan 11, 2019

I thank everyone for their kind responses. Blackhand answered a question I had yet to ask. Ron's idea of marking for scraping and Stumpkiller's suggestion of vise and scissors...all good and useful to me. The tapered rod concept must wait a bit; my vise is in my unheated garage and it is +4F there now and won't be warmer for some time. But then, I might be able to use some clamps on my old table downstairs...

Black Hand · Jan 11, 2019

Lay the rod blank on your kitchen table and scrape lengthwise to taper - no vice required. You stay warm and can drink your favorite beverage too.

Baxter · Jan 11, 2019

Thank you. "Next step up in size...", going from a 3/8" to a 7/16" rod doesn't seem like much of an increase. I have seen pictures of tapered rods but never had one at hand for examination.

Black Hand · Jan 11, 2019

Baxter said:
Thank you. "Next step up in size...", going from a 3/8" to a 7/16" rod doesn't seem like much of an increase. I have seen pictures of tapered rods but never had one at hand for examination.

Ok - go larger. It depends how large you want the end (this is the end I use to load, so limited by bore size) as the tapered part will be essentially the same since it needs to go through the thimbles & entry pipe. My rods start as 3/4 inch square blanks and I go from there.

Baxter · Jan 11, 2019

Stumpkiller said:
A razor plane works as well. I tape the last 10" of my wood shaft arrows from 11/32" down to 5/16". It's a bit of work but they recover faster when released and penetrate better.

One method I saw somewhere was to clamp a pair of scissors open about 60 degrees in a vice and draw the rod through the "V"

I ordered a razor planer and a few blades. Thanks for the idea.

Correct ramrod fitting(s)?

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